Proenza Schouler Spring 2013 is Digital Quality.

This collection by Proenza Schouler was just the most marvelous, innovative, risk taking collection that was a result of the grand year that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough have been having. New financing, new retail-business spirit guide and a brand new store in the prime of Madison Avenue real estate.

For this spring their message is randomness. "The internet, the images you're bombarded with and the collage of information that you get everyday," was how Hernandez described the collection. The designers went into a world of unlimited creative possibilities and came up with new, cool, fantastic ideas that were exquisitely tasteful in a fashion forward way.

The clothes had a digital quality to them, indeed. High def colors, neon green, electric blue and red, blared on laminated leathers, like a new patent, cut so thin and lightweight they were almost two dimensional. There was leather on boxy jackets, low slung pleated kilts and dresses that were fitted around the bodice and shoulders like a wet-suit and flared at the knee.

Patchwork looks were a dominance and there were some solid looks that were perforated with pixel-like dots. Hernandez and McCullough were inspired by a Gerhard Richter exhibition they had seen in Paris and they were keen on the notion of collage and what turned out were a combination of skins like the multicolored pieces of snake and iguana sewn up into one streamlined look combined with Internet sourced photos.

Pictures of a pool, a pool and a protest were all splice up with vivid jacquards, satins and graphic woven techniques on dresses and separates. What the designers did for the finale is that they blew the photo prints out onto dresses that featured a uniform embroidery of bright buttons at the top and grommets at the skirt.

This collection was one of the best for this spring season. Graphic and Amazing.

Proenza Schouler

Spring/Summer

2013

Ralph Lauren Spring 2013 is Sabor Latino!

Never has Ralph Lauren done anything Latin. For this spring he sent out a collection that had just that. Sabor Latino! The line up was elegant, flirty, fresh, elegant and sexy. 

There were recognizable Ralph Lauren touches that had reference points such as Spain, Mexico and other Latin epicenters that were sensual and sultry. Even though the show ran a bit too long and was a bit literal there were clothes that had a perfect bravado that is so irresistible that had the designer's ethos.

When the first look, a frilled turquoise suede shirt over black pants came out the message was clear - exuberance, color and lots of accessories. The craftsmanship was exquisite. Surface textures enriched via crochets and embroideries. There was a casual attitude in the best looks regardless of the berets, jewelry, bandannas and array of bags.

The serapes were charming and were not even used as serapes but as an off-the-shoulder-top. There was a group of toreador looks that came through this line up that was a tad costumey yet not shy in showing the embroidery and beading that went into the pieces.

For evening there were some stunning and exquisite gowns like a passion red gown with a lacquered lace bodice and skirt with cascading ruffles and  a couple of them black embroidered, curvaceous stunners that were quite sensual.

Ralph Lauren

Spring/Summer

2013

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2013 is a Delight.

Oscar de la Renta is still in the league and this spring and summer season shows it. The show opened with Karlie Kloss in a shiny red latex top paired with a slim pencil skirt and a blazer. This gave a taste of what the collection will be about. Chic with an edge that demands the attention by everyone to notice the woman. This showed again on a slick emerald green tank and pencil skirt under a hot pink silk faille jackert embroidered with black tassels. The models hair were swept in messy beehives that were streaked with pink, yellow, and blue. De la Renta was having fun and showed that he can still design beautiful collections and grand ones at that.

Each piece is an example of the amazing studio that produces them. Daywear was solid, clean and fresh. A simple white suit that was beautifully constructed and had slim cut pants was elegant and a belted sleeveless safari style top with wide tailored pants all in white gave class. There were also daysuits in doily lace and fuchsia astrakhan.

After dark, a pair of party dresses in feather embroidered tulle were especially memorable. A black ball gown that was slightly short in the front with embroidered beading on the bodice was grand and a striped number made a mark of a fun, simple touch to evening dressing. Shocking pink and green faired well in the line up of the evening section of the collection.

This collection made an impression that an influential French editor was heard saying "J'adore Oscar". Oscar de la Renta is a class act and is one of the remaining true masters of fashion and always comes up with marvelous clothes that are of class and modern with a couture touch. What a delight.

Oscar de la Renta 

Spring 

2013

Calvin Klein Spring 2013 is Cleanliness.

Spring is a time to feel alive, light and to have a sense of cleanliness. This Calvin Klein collection for this spring are all these things and more. "Erotic. Feminine. Urban. Chic. High sophistication." These are the words Fransisco Costa used to describe his lineup for this collection.

One of the key influences for this collection was the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, one of Calvin Klein's most famous former employees. There was a great sense of exploration as well that worked well with the collection. "She is very much part of this house," Costa said. "She had this really cool vibe. All the Yohji and the Calvin....There was an edge to her, the clothes were never dull."

Bessette-Kennedy's fashion sensibility could be seen in the tasteful and artful tailoring. There was a sexual dimension in several of the dresses and separates that featured bras and bustier tops, some in view and others peeking out from iunder filmy layerings. According to Costa the looks were "very pinup." That could be so, but they made up for a highly modern variation with no references to the traditional retro ideas. He also created fabulous looks playing with outting transparent fabrics over solids, using weblike moire cages over strapless sheaths.

Fransisco Costa is the perfect designer for the Calvin Klein Collections. His architectural touches influences the designs divinely and with that, the clothes have movement. As this is so, he maintains the Calvin Klein style alive, therefor it remains a strong presence in the New York fashion world.

Calvin Klein

Spring/Summer

2013

Narciso Rodriguez Looks at the Masters for Spring 2013 and Everything Looked Wonderful.

The exuding calm and confidence that Narciso Rodriquez was radiating was so obvious and it was for a very good reason. He was about to present a wonderful collection of spare silhouetted, exquisite cuts and colorful graphics that were all perfectly executed with a perfect sense of control.

For this season he continued to focus on construction. "I was looking at the way the masters - Vionnet and Balenciaga - cut on the bias, then translating  that into something modern," he said. The versions that he presented were fluid and complicated in construction and all looked effortless and divine. Rodriguez does a wonderful job in working the minimal angle.

This time he not did that but he also ventured into surface embellishments. It was an unknown territory for him but the results were lovely. There were laminated wooden paillettes, which he applied in an abstract motif on a striking moss dress. He also added colorful embroidery on several chic tops. The texture added a new dimension in Rodrigiuez's work and it was just beautiful.

The final looks were flowing, languid slip dresses that were almost transparent were it not for their big fuchsia and magenta color blocks. They were exquisite and look like a dream to wear for a beautiful summer evening.
Narciso Rodriguez is a designer who is so good in the art of construction and technique that in this case and in this season showed his confidence in his designing abilities. Yes, this season is a confident collection and should not be missed out.

Narciso Rodriguez

Spring/Summer

2013

Marc Jacobs is Brutal in Simplicity for Spring/Summer 2013.

For this spring, Marc Jacobs said that it is going to be all about restraint. According to Jacobs it is going to be "very, very, very brutal. Brutal in its simplicity. That's our new word for the season." The shift to this brutality is immense. One of the talents that Jacobs possesses is his ability ta make those giant seasonal changes while retaining his fashion identity, the trait he shares with Miuccia Prada and not many others.

His explosion of graphics has captured the attention of the fashion crowd. Rubberized leather leopard prints, micro sequined checkerboards and stripes, stripes, stripes. Is this restraint? By Jacobs' standards it is and they are absolutely wearable. Real clothes are plenty and touches of whimsy are in the mix.

The set was a huge triangular floor covered in pale leather tiles, the back wall a row of 15 revolving doors out of which the models emerged.

What emerged were silhouettes that were super elongated anchored by a low-slung skirt and jacket or coat cut lean through the shoulders worn with a perfectly matched handbag. The clothes were perfect, beautiful and sexy which is the message that Jacobs sent out for this spring season.

The lineup is a variation of short midriff-baring jackets and T-shirts over briefs. More girlier touches were curvy dresses, their wide stripes cut into flamboyant bicolored scalloped hems, and a terrific group that repeated many of the earlier shapes, in solids with ruffled two tone collars. Some linear stripes in variations that made provocative curves around the body were what Jacobs offered as well.

Evening consisted of floor-length sequinede T-shirts in contrasting black and white patterns wiht chiffon strips made for a girl to sparkle in a casual, engaging way. 

Marc Jacob has evolved so beautifully as a designer and has been consistently creating charming and feminine designs that have spirit and style.

Marc Jacobs

Spring/Summer

2013

Marchesa is India for Spring/Summer 2013.

What better than to look at India and its vibrant colors, enbroidery and its love of gold embellishments. For this spring Marchesa's Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig took a look at this country and really embraced its glory. They also cited the Sixties, when the Beatles turned to the Maharishi for their spiritual guru, as their inspiration.

Chapman and Craig approached India which was inspiring yet was a touch too literal. Draped dresses with elaborate adornments, saris, and midriff-exposing ghagra choli were shown and it was expected that some Bollywood musical would take place.

The collection did have its high points for sure. Many pieces were exquisite. One of which was a languid, white draped gown worn with gold embroidered illusion tights and the last dress in silver embroidery.

There is no mistake that Marchesa is supreme in eveningwear. It has an established reputation in high fashion and today anyone knows Marchesa and what it stands for. Beautiful clothes.

Rodarte Spring 2013 is not Subdued At All!

Kate and Laura Mulleavy that make up Rodarte, made up a wonderful collection that had a quality of dark mixed with romantic that looked dynamic, powerful and sexy. Kink seemed to be channeled as well. "Its not subdued at all," said Laura a few days before the show. "Its about medieval play and role-playing games." Sounds good to me.

There were references to armored warriors and perhaps road warriors. The wonderful thing about this show is that there was a wonderful mixture of beauty that celebrated femininity and its strength, which was perfect. Short, strapless dresses shown layered over tight, printed turtlenecks had bodices shaped like partial octagons that jutted away from the body like a breastplate.

Waistlines were embellished in chains and corset like metal embroidery were on long fluid skirts that were less aggressive and more romantic. There were some biker bitch influences which were fabulous in leather. This includes lace-up pants and quilted jackets with ample fringe and colorful silk trim.
The silhouettes that were dominant were short, structured dresses, boxy tops worn over skinny pants.

The mixture of textiles and construction showed that there was a lot of handwork. An example of this is the guipere lace that worked like chain mail and the woven jaquards and brocades. All this and more are the marvelous touches that make Rodarte recognized as smart, intelligent and creative designers.

Rodarte

Spring/Summer

2013

Michael Kors for Spring/Summer 2013 is Optimistic.

Michael Kors looked at architectural geniuses Lautner and Neutra funneling their geometric bravado through his own optimistic viewpoint. "We're West coast dreaming," he said in a preview. In other words he expressed a burst of graphic zest with bold color statements and the blue sky was an optimistic presence on photo printed pants.

Kors opened with a girl-guy pair both in striped sweaters, hers a red-and-navy bodysuit, paired with a crisp, zipped-to-the-waist gaberdine skirt. This led into a great line up that was done with class and had a confidence in the way geometrics and colors were blended with each other.

Shifts in primary colors were fresh, color blocked dresses popped, a swimsuit in bold stripes, red and navy on top, green and navy on bottom were audacious. The sporty lady looks were mostly sleek, structured coats, suits, and dresses in bright white and brighter solids (red, green, canary yellow).

At night it all got quiet with a trio of classy, sexy black crepe gowns with tastefully done cut outs.
This is a collection that was clean and polished and had a nice twist to what classic and modern American sportwear and only Michael Kors can do it well.

Michael Kors

Spring/Summer

2013

Zac Posen Spring 2013 is a Sunday Kind of Love.

A fantastical collection for spring! The lights dimmed at Avery Fisher Hall terrace and Etta James' "Sunday Kind of Love" started to play and created a romantic mood in the air. The collection presentation for spring by Zac Posen begins.

Several looks displayed this romanticism which began with pretty day dresses such as a muted floral silk and chiffon one and a pleated rose-print style cinched at the waist. Posen continues the rose inspiration in a beautiful embroidery on a navy bustier worn with a long satin skirt.

In the past Posen would get carried away, but this time he really reigned it in and did keep things a bit light. His more elaborate gowns were a feast for the eyes and displayed an extravagance of modern elegance. There were just a couple of gowns that leaned more on a too extravagant side. The finale tiered ballgown worn by Coco Rocha was one of those that were one of them yet it was beautifully designed and constructed.

Zac Posen has a great eye for smart draping and sharp construction and he is great in creating silhouettes that exude power, sensuality, elegance and modern class.  Overall the designs were impeccable and I am certain that spring welcomes his entire collection with open arms!

Zac Posen

Spring

2013

Alexander Wang's Dynamic Spring/Summer 2013 Collection.

An energetic spring collection that is sportswear on steroids. The line up was sophisticated, tasteful, powerful and relaxed. Alexander Wang is a dynamic designer who never runs out of ideas which are always in motion and get to be expressed with a passionate energy. 

This minimalist sport collection had "hockey jerseys" worn over tailored shorts that came in skinny or bermuda styles. Wang created the collection mostly in black and white. There were some shots of beige leather and grays. The silhouette was more spare and crisp, in stark cotton and exotics, such as karung snakeskin, than previous iterations yet nothing was plain.

Wang said that austerity was a focus when it came to structure and volume. He played with the idea of suspension and tension through embroidery techniques. Garments were sliced up and tacked back together with a fishing-line type of thread, creating bare strips. Precise pieces of fabrics were cut and sewn into the shape of a croc spine down the back of a shirt, which Wang likened to a graphic eyelet effect. One of the most interesting treatments was the bugle bead embroidery done on the vertical, in a pattern that imitated crocodile skin in 3-D.

There were boyish cuts charged with a racy undercurrent. The sexual energy was turned up high with curvy dresses such as the silver embroidered V-neck dress with a slit up each thigh. Shoes were banded up to the knee tying in with the suspension-dissection motif.

The finale was presented with nine models, all acid blonde dressed in ivory variations of looks that have already been shown. They took their places on the cement runway. The lights went down and the clothes which were glow in the dark, lit up.
This is Alexander Wang in his element. He continues to dazzle and is notably a darling in New York's fashion world with his creative abilities. Keep it going, Alexander!

Alexander Wang

Spring/Summer

2013

A Touch of Carolina Herrera for Spring 2013.

Carolina Herrera expressed "lightness" and "fluidity," the buzzwords in her spring show notes. There was a concentration on slim silhouettes with some light and fluid fabrics like chiffon, organza, tulle, organza and georgette, which all achieved her goal.

An ivory crepe halter dress with a cowl neckline and a white gown column gown done in tonal jacquards with a caped shoulder were a couple of examples of simplicity which was one of the element in the collection. They were quite light and beautiful.

There was a variation of an abstract print in some strange combinations of pastels with flashes of orange and black. There were also some odd pairings of polished jackets and flounced silk shorts. These clothes seem to be a bit confusing because they were not going hand in hand with Herrera's breezy designs which were elegant. These were pin tucked and embroidered.

Some results were lace shirt dresses, sheer and cut below the knee, and some white numbers with great touches of gold embellishments.

Although this collection had a bit of a confusing moments, Carolina Herrera always has the touch of elegance in all her designs. It is always a pleasure to witness and enjoy.

Carolina Herrera

Spring/Summer

2013

Donna Karan Spring 2013 is Irresistible.

Donna Karan created a breathtaking collection for this spring season. This was a turn around from the men's wear tailoring for fall. This time the romantic Donna was a real treat with mesmerizing colors cold-dyed to feign nature
Her exquisite pieces in muted hues set the tone. The folded jackets over full skirts, and empire silhouettes, such as the oyster linen and jersey dress and jacket that opened the show were some examples. It was all beautiful as everything else that followed.

Karan played with volume via construction. A gorgeous transparent georgette dress almost cascaded down from a stricter jersey bralike top.
Evening was stunning. Karan draped several beautiful dresses. There was a sea foam embroidered and sequined dress that just floated by like an under water creature. All so elegantly rendered.

This collection served to mask Karan's perfect sense of control. So sublime was it that almost every piece was elaborately constructed, draped, tiered and tweaked and gave an overall effect that remained poetically beautiful. Donna Karan still remains a great American designer who really knows how to design for any woman. How can any woman not resist??

Donna Karan 

Spring/Summer

2013