Dec 31, 2011

Theyskens' Theory for Spring/Summer 2012

Olivier Theyskens definitely has a theory. That is to add a wonderful special touch of his artistic talent that gave street wear a wonderful creative and truly modern point of view that will build a spring/summer wardrobe. He built on the pretty girl/tomboy dichotomy he set up season one at Theory. There were . There were quite a number of shrunken jackets with misplaced pockets he put under the armpit or cut open in the back. He dressed them down with with jeans worn loose and low on the hips. Many were done in two waists, one high, one low. There were lurex knits trippy jeans, sequined dresses that appeared to glow, and infanta gowns. The street wear in the collection could go day or night shown with ultrahigh heels. This line up proves that Theyskens' Theory truly makes a point for Spring/Summer 2012.

By the way, when you take a look at the video for this collection you will hear commentary.  It sounded like they were giving commentary for a shopping network channel. It got so annoying to me that I turned off the volume. You may or may not like it. Just giving you the heads up.

Theskens' Theory
Spring/Summer 2012

Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2012

Marc by Marc Jacobs looked more polished, sleeker, and more grown up for spring. I really enjoyed this collection because it did not have too many gimmicks and it was pretty streamlined compared to the past seasons. There was major minimalism going on in silhouette and color. The word Bauhaus appeared in the show notes and so the influence appeared in the collection. A boxy electric orange top was worn over a simple navy shorts, and a fuss-free shift dress and a navy top and green skirt. I enjoyed the skirts with the peplums that went with simple modern tops. It was plain, yet powerful and playful. At first I almost did not want to see this collection because I was getting a bit weary of how gimmicky and trendy it was getting. I am glad I did not miss it.

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Spring 2012

Alexander Wang is Energetic for Spring/Summer 2012.

There is definitely a signature to what Alexander Wang brings onto the runway. He offers a true and genuine collection that really sets a high standard in streetwear. There is a wonderful sense of creativity that is totally unapologetic in the fashion world in New York. For spring he has come up with another amazing example of what he is capable of.
This time around Wang has worked with athletic references as he has done before in the past, and this time he focused on motocross and BMX racing. The results were laser-cut mesh bombers, miniskirts and shorts.The models walked out with hands in sheer pockets for a sporty Surrealist effect. Wonderful ombré
floral prints, blue and grey with a Hawaiian flavor on utility gear. Cargo pants with a mesh bustier looked new and sexy. There were some leggings and track jackets done up in full racing suits with striped paneling and contrast color insets that fit like second skin.
I was pleased with this wonderful line up and I wondered how Wang comes up with these smart, clever, innovative designs. Alexander Wang is definitely fearless and does not hold back in expressing his energetic design talent

Alexander Wang
Spring 2012

Dec 30, 2011

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2012. One of my faves for NYFW.

This Calvin Klein Spring /Summer 2012 collection was extremely exquisite. The slipdress that Calvin Klein put out there in the fashion world in the Nineties represented the minimalism that the designer was known for. Not only was it minimalist but also sexy, sensual and beautiful.

Francisco Costa built a collection around a single concept and the outcome was stunning.
Costa introduced his slipdress in a peachy nude that brought to mind household underpinnings of the Forties. The dresses were made in many versions with darts, layered bralette effects, sheer insets and winding seams that provided subtle decoration. It was so nice to see Costa engage with something so delicate when he often fixates on structure, volume and architectural construction. there were some tailoring interspersed with variations on the classic, satin lapeled tuxedo jacket that were usually worn with matching culottes.
There was a wonderful soft cohesiveness to the clothes which came in shades of pale yellow, hazy lilac, and gunmetal that blended beautifully with the blush tones. Some of the black styles were a bit of a shock yet it was great to see because this season designers were dismissing black from their collection.
Once again this was an extremely exquisite collection and one of my favorite for Spring 2012.

Calvin Klein
Spring/Summer 2012

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2012

I was impressed with Proenza Schouler. I am always impressed. What Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have to offer is such a wonderful spring collection full of inspirations that included Fifties car interiors, Googie architecture, and the work of Morris Lapidus, the man behind Miami's Deco crown jewel, the Fontainebleau hotel. The show had wonderful key pieces like spongy, snug cropped sweaters and a cobalt blue A-line skirt in papery eel skin that formed one half of the lineup's best looks which indicated that the collection was to be a serious , sophisticated affair. The precision and expert craftsmanship was brilliant. They sure did not shy from the bad-taste elements like the tiger-print car interiors ad the palette of orange, green and gold that dropped out of fashion in the late Seventies. I loved the play of silhouettes, textures and the mash-up of neon and tropical prints. The talents of these young men that form Proenza Schouler are never out of sync and always have everyone look forward to every collection season after season.

Proenza Schouler
Spring/Summer 2012

Ralph Lauren is Influenced by the Twenties for Spring/Summer 2012

Ralph Lauren offered a very sophisticated and demure spring collection that was inspired by the looks of the Twenties. This was one of the most sophisticated collections for Spring 2012. The day looks of faded floral looks and "vintaged" sweaters were soft in colors, fabrics and silhouette all under cloches. The suits with pants or with shorts were so clean, crisp and polished. When the evening clothes came out I thought they stole the show. I absolutely loved every single piece. I wonder if Lauren was inspired by the wedding gowns he created for his daughter Dylan and daughter-in-law Lauren. He may have had a recollection of the glorious white collection of 10 years ago, which he designed before, but after, 9/11. Either way the beautiful white and silver gowns in satins, floral metallics and crystal encrustations, were quite the stars.

Ralph Lauren
Spring/Summer 2012

Narciso Rodriguez Spring/Summer 2012

Narciso Rodriguez

The inspiration board was covered with images of dramatic and weird work of artist Kim Joon, whose large scale, swirl-heavy tattoos make for fascinating and previous viewing. Narciso Rodriguez invoked this work in his collection that the result was absolutely impressive and it exuded such a vitality that it kept my attention. The black top over white pants, that opened the show, had a bold, flapped asymmetric waistband that made a powerful statement. The intensity heightened some more with off beat geometry, stripes, bands of squares going this way and that, hard lines keeping company with gentle curves. Joon brought him to a larger range of Asian references like the traditional silks and kimonos which were cut up into collage pieces. The pale colors and and bold graphics were quite soothing amidst all the overload of prints on the runway this season. The show closing dresses of white and pale silver jacquard were quite gentle. Rodriguez did a beautiful work and the essence of his talent radiated from every piece in this line up.

Narciso Rodriguez
Spring/Summer 2012

Dec 28, 2011

L'Wren Scott does her thing for Spring/Summer 2012

L'Wren Scott is evolving more as a designer than Mick Jagger's girlfriend. She used a song from the famous rocker's first album with his new band "SuperHeavy", "One Day One Night," as a jumping point for her collection. These clothes definitely are all her.

Scott tied it all together, explaining, "I want women to be able to go straight from day to night in hyper-glamour." The fabrics had more texture than usual and Scott mixed them with great ease. There were metallic brocades and rich embroidery. A red cardigan worn with white cropped pants and the chartreuse version over a striped silk shirts and long jersey skirt were a couple of examples. This L'Wren Scott show was not necessarily a cohesive collection but it sure had a wonderful random selection of silhouettes, colors, fabrics and influential decades. Scott has a very hip fan base that keeps expanding and she basically can afford to design her collections her own way.

L'Wrenn Scott
Spring/Summer 2012

Nature and South Africa Inspires Michael Kors for Spring/Summer 2012

Michael Kors said that if he could commute, his new South Beach would be the Singita Lodges in South Africa. He and his husband Lance Le Pere have been there three times. For this spring, Kors brought some of it with him to the runway. He had a lot to offer and the connection with nature with a mixture of modernity showed, inspired in part by Lauren Hutton and Peter Beard. The adventure was all set for in earth tones and easy silhouettes. Some garments were in gauzzy weights or heftier fabrics washed and rumpled for comforts sake, and for more flamboyant moments, floating georgette ponchos and caftans. There were some impressive pieces that refined the rugged. The palette of colors looked drab and the punches of rusts and orangy reds did not give a boost. The zebra prints gave a nice dose of graphic clarity. All in all this was a collection of practical chic with sex appeal and joy.

Michael Kors
Spring/Summer 2012

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring/Summer 2012

This was a hell of an exquisite collection. It took my breath away. I remember how Ralph Rucci makes the most wearable collections that have a most couture touch and quality to them yet making them accessible to any woman. The fabrics and the workmanship are truly splendid. There was a subtle approch which includes the plastic insets. The layers had a gentle touch as well and the embroidery and embellishments never overpowered any of the sihouettes. For the most part, insets and dramatic seaming had a light touch. There seemed to be some fun woth some details such as the white longcoat with playful black circles. This collection was pretty strong because of its restraint as well as its execution shown in the gorgeous gowns. Rucci always delivers extraordinary clothes that can make anyone feel abundant, prosperous and elegant.

Ralph Rucci
Spring/Summer 2012

Anna Sui is on Trend for Spring/Summer 2012

This season Anna Sui was on trend with the prints and retro look. This collection looked pretty fresh. The inspiration is famed fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez and his time in Paris in the Seventies. What was enjoyable was the Forties vibe featuring the feather chubbies, bow blouses with flouncy skirts, and jumpsuits worn with matching turbans and socks with striped Hush Puppies. The prints were stars and bows, to flowers and fairies, to chickens and rabbits, and graced the clothes to all manners and accessories. Girly looks from lacy tap pants, sheer midriffs, swingy skirts and even a big plastic heart on a chain. This is a collection that was entirely wearable and fun. Why not have fun this coming this spring? Laugh a little! Be fun!

Anna Sui
Spring/Summer 2012

J Mendel Turning it out for Spring/Summer 2012

The inspiration was the Baroque style of Dorothy Draper. The ideas of the interior decorator's sensibility was infused into the J.Mendel collection. There was color blocking, printed and paneled dresses that were loosely belted at the waist and featured details such as pleating or revealing vents. Fabulous column gowns, many with sequined embroidery, plunging necklines and high slits for added sex appeal. Of course there were the furs that the house of J.Mendel is known for. Done in mink, goat and alpaca had a cloudlike effect, appearing on small boleros and vests. There were some designs that had no steam such as the dresses with the cutaway hemlines, but despite of this, Mendel designed a collection that turned out great for spring.

Spring/Summer 2012

Reed Krakoff is getting Clearer with Spring/Summer 2012

Reed Krakoff

Reed Krakoff is one of the most successful creative heads in the industry admired and respected around the world for his contributions at Coach. In the two years that he has gotten into sportswear he has dealt with growing pains that are truly essential to his craft. This season displays a wonderful feminine take by using colors like yellow, orange and nude, and chiffon and lightweight leathers that added a more fluid touch to the lineup. Using cellophane for pleated skirts and panel dresses showed that he had a willingness to experiment. The fresh perspective that he offered on the print trend for the season were his abstract eagle motifs on silk jacquard and leather designs. More wearable clothes were created this time around than in the past and the process of his growth is having Krakoff get more clearer with his message.
Looking forward to seeing what he will come up with for Fall/Winter 2012!

Reed Krakoff
Spring/Summer 2012

A Beautiful Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti for Spring/Summer 2012

Alberta Ferretti

"The Great Gatsby" speaks through Alberta Ferretti who created a wonderful lineup of beautifully executed dresses that were all breathtaking in more ways than one. She is known for her mastery over tulle and chiffon, she reworked the materials in a stunning effect with intricate beading and embroideries on pastel-hued dropwaisted dresses, below the knee or longer, and layered over silk slips, that could double as stand-alone pieces. There were a few cable-knit swearers with subtle silver metallic coating that added a nice sportif element that added to the Gatsby spirit. The dresses in this collection are true gems if you are ecer invited to a "Great Gatsby" party or to any award after-party coming up. Ferretti listened well to the inspiration she received this time around and delivered.

Alberta Ferretti
Spring/Summer 2012

Calming things down at 3.1 Phillip Lim for Spring/Summer 2012

After seeing a whole lot of rich over-the-top prints and loud color combos it is Phillip Lim that calmed things down with his sorbet colors such as ivory peach, pink and yellow with silhouettes that were quite soothing. There were loose blousy razor back tanks and lanky track pants that zipped on the sides that concealed or revealed a stripe. A layering and exploring asymmetric cuts and splicing garments in half displayed some examples of how breezy these garments can be. Kites were the source of his inspiration thus showing a hint of serenity in small doses. I enjoyed the minimalism in this collection and I think many people will too.

3.1 Phillip Lim
Spring/Summer 2012

Tibi and Shamask Spring/Summer 2012

Amy Smilovic

Amy Smilovic went for a cleaned-up minimalist and purist look for her latest Tibi collection. This is giving those that are looking for quieter alternatives to the sea of prints that will flood the stores next spring. She offered flowing dresses, ensembles that are relaxed in fit, and the color palette was pleasing to the eye - mint and salmon for soft hues. The white-brocade motif applied to green and black color block looks, had a graphic feel that worked nicely with the rest of this strong lineup.

Spring/Summer 2012

Ronald Shamask

Shamask has been around all this time. Only this time he returned to show business with a collection that was a blend of great fabrics, color, geometry and assemetry that blends art and commerce. There were clever details that add nice touches that do not distract. Swingy dresses and leathers added some grace to this collection. Shamask is back and many are really glad that he presented a nice Spring/Summer collection.

Spring/Summer 2012

Dec 1, 2011

Threeasfour, Naeem Khan, Elie Tahari, Spring/Summer 2012

Threeasfour is the trio that consists of Adi Gil, Gabi Asfour and Angela Donhauser and they created a collection that shows that they enjoy pushing boundaries. In this case it is inspiration. Their beautiful Middle Eastern line up explored the idea of unity and friendship as it relates to multiculturalism. The setting of their show took place in St. Patrick's old Cathedral and was a display of beautiful lightweight fabrics, cutaway coats, flowing cotton dresses, many with a Jewish star print, and the controversial Muslim Keffiyeh scarves draped around necks. These clothes were not only beautiful but also wearable.

Spring/Summer 2012

There were so many beautiful dresses and there was everything but the kitchen sink. Naeem Khan is a designer who has years of experience in eveningwear and has a loyal clientele which includes the First Lady, Michelle Obama. The collection lacked continuity in a big way. Anything that you are looking for, he's got it. I am not sure which direction he was going with his designs, yet they were beautiful.

Naeem Khan
Spring/Summer 2012

When there is a combination of Ancient Egypt - the land of gods and goddesses, Pharaohs and a very majestic Cleopatra, the result is a collection that is well polished and Elie Tahari followed these guiding inspirations. There were gold mesh dresses and skirts, delicate harem pants, a fine python print for casual trousers and sheer pleating details. Gold embroidery on linen jackets and accessories like tasseled belts enhanced the rich feel of the clothes, while slightly faded hues added a casual elegant element to the collection. Tahari produced a fine collection that will do well for this coming spring.

Elie Tahari
Spring/Summer 2012