Francisco Costa built a collection around a single concept and the outcome was stunning.
Costa introduced his slipdress in a peachy nude that brought to mind household underpinnings of the Forties. The dresses were made in many versions with darts, layered bralette effects, sheer insets and winding seams that provided subtle decoration. It was so nice to see Costa engage with something so delicate when he often fixates on structure, volume and architectural construction. there were some tailoring interspersed with variations on the classic, satin lapeled tuxedo jacket that were usually worn with matching culottes.
There was a wonderful soft cohesiveness to the clothes which came in shades of pale yellow, hazy lilac, and gunmetal that blended beautifully with the blush tones. Some of the black styles were a bit of a shock yet it was great to see because this season designers were dismissing black from their collection.
Once again this was an extremely exquisite collection and one of my favorite for Spring 2012.