May 19, 2012

Rick Owens is Soft for Spring 2012

"There is no irony. It's not particularly witty. There's no menace. This time, it's really pure, simple grace." Rick Owens had enough confidence to show a softer side while maintaining his Gothic flair which he believes in with gusto. "Pillar" skirts were columns in black, white, and a terra-cotta tone and slit extra high in the back for maximum ambulatory effect. Owens said he likes the idea of presenting the head like a Brancusi sculpture, an effect achieved through broad tops, with shapes similar to garbage bags cut to accommodate arms and head. There were shirts that were more fitted with slim sleeves and extreme bell cuffs. The shapes are Sixties couture inspired and quite beautiful. Owens said that wherever beauty is, sexuality is not far behind. Jackets were wonderfully crafted in a graphic patchwork of made for wonderful jackets in cotton duck and leather and they were perfect. "I always resent the idea of radical silhouettes or exaggeration being confined on the runway," Owens said. "That kind of extremity should be accessible all day long." Rick Owens is true to his aesthetics and that is why he is successful with any collection he creates for his clientele.

Rick Owens
Spring 2012

May 13, 2012

Dries van Noten is Moving Fashion His Way for Spring 2012

With a new collection for Spring 2012, Dries Van Noten delivered with color, prints and shapes done in ways that are unexpected and with class that gets one thinking how clever and talented he is. Silhouettes and construction seem to be reflected by the Fifties and Sixties and had a bit of couture feel to them giving some luxury to the story.

Dries Van Noten was drawn to the architectural shapes of Spanish and Italian couture of the period.The day before the show he said, "It is always about the elegance and the beauty."  He took some ideas from 17th century etchings, the jungle, the nighttime cityscapes (London, New York, Beirut, Las Vegas) of photographer James Reeve - combining them in many ways in single pieces. There were peplums on pants and embroideries on toreador jackets. Splashes of hot color were present  - fuchsia, bright green and yellow, in a collection that was pretty calm. What a great demonstration of how his mixes prints well creating some abstract elements yet keeping some looks classy.
These nice touches and the wonderful combination of these prints, colors, and shapes is what makes Dries Van Noten a true master in what he loves to do making him a designer who "moves fashion in his own way."

Dries Van Noten

May 10, 2012

Etro Spring 2012

After taking her cues from the paintings of Fortunato Depero and from the house archives, Veronica Etro set out to make a collection that was a viewing that was beautiful. "I didn't want it to be romantic," she said. "Feminine, yes, but romantic, no." The paisleys were more detailed. She deconstructed them by cutting, shrinking, enlarging and collaging them for this high impact collection. She said the task was not easy and that they are detailed. The result was a wonderful eye catching variety of clothes in shapes of the waistless dress in various lengths and casual draping. Some with straps made in razor backs and some engineered in trompe l'oeil bodices.. The graphics were new, bold and clean which is beyond the norm of what Etro creates. the additional details of the underskirts of printed plissé were quite jazzy along with the swingy layers of ombréd fringes. All that jazz in this collection was marvelous and has a great range of dresses that can only be choices for the gal who does enjoy Etro.


Raf Simon's Best Foot Forward for Jil Sander Spring 2012

This collection is truly a masterpiece that holds the JiI Sander aesthetic and as the clean Raf Simon's touch is added. This collection for Spring 2012 is a promise to all those who are looking for a minimal yet feminine and lady like quality with a mid-century touch which he said "the highest form that survived and that you always see coming back in contemporary creative outings."

So, out came a line up that began with the signature Jil Sander white shirt that was worked into various ways that was clean and chic . The bold pink paisley prints added a punch, pants and skirts came in gingham, knits were had motifs of Picasso ceramics that were sanction by the artist's familly trust. The dresses that followed after that exuded pure Jil Sander were truly outstanding. The beautiful Grace Kelly-like strapless white full skirted dress was breath taking. Simons has definitely put his best foot forward for a great Spring season for Jil Sander.

Jil Sander

Fun Designing for Marni Spring 2012

Marni is designed by Consuelo Castiglioni. There are is a mixture of bold patterns, color and texture that was playful and quite extravagant in the creative efforts that went into this collection. There is a childlike condition that had quite a playful whimsy that refuses to conform with the humdrum adult world. This collection is a "mix between childhood tenderness and the tension of the grown-up woman." The volume of the Marni creativity is turned up. The silhouettes are simple. The colors were Easter-egg colors and there were some loud graphic patterns on hefty fabrications. What came out later in the show were were some daisy prints, some done in fuzzy tinsel and the finale had some graphic embroideries that came in fist size plastic daisies applied to in triplicate to raffia like beaded skirt. All of these clothes are quite easy to wear. There were some appearances of some sleeveless dresses that were slim with sharp collars that showed the female form which is a rarity in any Marni collection. It looked like Castiglioni had a lot of fun designing this collection and really let her inner child loose and let it express itself in a fabulous way.


May 2, 2012

Elegant and Easy by Alberta Ferretti for Spring 2012

Remarkable is what this collection is. And Alberta Ferretti made sure that the collection was full of dresses that were like T-shirts. Well, the collection did not look as if it was so because their was not really anything that was simple or casual and I mean it in a good way. What was captured in this collection was the ease and that came through in wonderful pieces that came in slip dresses and languid skirts that were cut in very lightweight fabrics and the craftsmanship was remarkable. Geometric shapes were cut into various shapes and pieced together on tulle along with some embroideries that resemble Zulu markings. Full dresses were constructed out of crocheted beads that added subtle climaxes to the collection. Daywear included silk tunics over flared pants. The final gowns draped from mesh jet beads and were gorgeous. This collection is just a wonderful testimony of the incredible vision that Alberta Ferretti had for this Spring/Summer 2012 season and that is this is a collection for every woman who wants to look and feel pretty anytime.

Alberta Ferretti

Balance of Masculine and Feminine at N.21 for Spring 2012.

The fourth N.21 collection by Alessandro Dell'Acqua was very strong and was enjoyed by many editors and buyers. Known for his feminine clothes he was inspired by Milanese women in the Sixties - "very bourgeois but with a touch of eccentricity."  Masculinity showed in separates for day such as a madras shirt and trousers combination with embellished collar touches and tight blue Oxford shirts with a utilitarian feel.  Yet in the masculine touches there was a balance with feminine elements such as lace dresses and silk lounge pyjamas in an abstract animal print. Nicely settled in N.21 Dell'Acqua created clothes that were wearable and saleable to any woman who would like to own a piece or ensemble.


Cuts and Details for Fendi Spring 2012

This Fendi collection is Karl Lagerfeld's take on daytime chic. The idea of Italian women dressing like they used to  on the streets of Milan or Rome was the inspiration. There was a display of neutrals such as black, camel, ivory and navy with a splash of color and stripes. There was so much going on in cut and details. Lagerfeld rounded, flanged, caped, extended and exposed shoulders on jackets, dresses and tops. Colorful mini geometrics were embroidered on shirtings, lush cable knits on sheer chiffon were present and wonderful shirt looks were displayed in stripes. While there were some sporty looks, there were also some look that gave a unique touch like the square apron-like bodices edged in ruffles. For Fendi furs they were made in with fox and were done in a long, hippie like way in color tinged medallions. Of course the accessories were present in various shapes and sizes and textures that are all made with the essential Fendi touch and quality.
Lagerfeld certainly designed clothes that are luxuriously and quite elegant for day and night all rolled up into one.