Olivier Theyskens definitely has a theory. That is to add a wonderful special touch of his artistic talent that gave street wear a wonderful creative and truly modern point of view that will build a spring/summer wardrobe. He built on the pretty girl/tomboy dichotomy he set up season one at Theory. There were . There were quite a number of shrunken jackets with misplaced pockets he put under the armpit or cut open in the back. He dressed them down with with jeans worn loose and low on the hips. Many were done in two waists, one high, one low. There were lurex knits trippy jeans, sequined dresses that appeared to glow, and infanta gowns. The street wear in the collection could go day or night shown with ultrahigh heels. This line up proves that Theyskens' Theory truly makes a point for Spring/Summer 2012.
By the way, when you take a look at the video for this collection you will hear commentary. It sounded like they were giving commentary for a shopping network channel. It got so annoying to me that I turned off the volume. You may or may not like it. Just giving you the heads up.
Marc by Marc Jacobs looked more polished, sleeker, and more grown up for spring. I really enjoyed this collection because it did not have too many gimmicks and it was pretty streamlined compared to the past seasons. There was major minimalism going on in silhouette and color. The word Bauhaus appeared in the show notes and so the influence appeared in the collection. A boxy electric orange top was worn over a simple navy shorts, and a fuss-free shift dress and a navy top and green skirt. I enjoyed the skirts with the peplums that went with simple modern tops. It was plain, yet powerful and playful. At first I almost did not want to see this collection because I was getting a bit weary of how gimmicky and trendy it was getting. I am glad I did not miss it.
There is definitely a signature to what Alexander Wang brings onto the runway. He offers a true and genuine collection that really sets a high standard in streetwear. There is a wonderful sense of creativity that is totally unapologetic in the fashion world in New York. For spring he has come up with another amazing example of what he is capable of.
This time around Wang has worked with athletic references as he has done before in the past, and this time he focused on motocross and BMX racing. The results were laser-cut mesh bombers, miniskirts and shorts.The models walked out with hands in sheer pockets for a sporty Surrealist effect. Wonderful ombré floral prints, blue and grey with a Hawaiian flavor on utility gear. Cargo pants with a mesh bustier looked new and sexy. There were some leggings and track jackets done up in full racing suits with striped paneling and contrast color insets that fit like second skin.
I was pleased with this wonderful line up and I wondered how Wang comes up with these smart, clever, innovative designs. Alexander Wang is definitely fearless and does not hold back in expressing his energetic design talent
This Calvin Klein Spring /Summer 2012 collection was extremely exquisite. The slipdress that Calvin Klein put out there in the fashion world in the Nineties represented the minimalism that the designer was known for. Not only was it minimalist but also sexy, sensual and beautiful.
Francisco Costa built a collection around a single concept and the outcome was stunning.
Costa introduced his slipdress in a peachy nude that brought to mind household underpinnings of the Forties. The dresses were made in many versions with darts, layered bralette effects, sheer insets and winding seams that provided subtle decoration. It was so nice to see Costa engage with something so delicate when he often fixates on structure, volume and architectural construction. there were some tailoring interspersed with variations on the classic, satin lapeled tuxedo jacket that were usually worn with matching culottes.
There was a wonderful soft cohesiveness to the clothes which came in shades of pale yellow, hazy lilac, and gunmetal that blended beautifully with the blush tones. Some of the black styles were a bit of a shock yet it was great to see because this season designers were dismissing black from their collection.
Once again this was an extremely exquisite collection and one of my favorite for Spring 2012.
I was impressed with Proenza Schouler. I am always impressed. What Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have to offer is such a wonderful spring collection full of inspirations that included Fifties car interiors, Googie architecture, and the work of Morris Lapidus, the man behind Miami's Deco crown jewel, the Fontainebleau hotel. The show had wonderful key pieces like spongy, snug cropped sweaters and a cobalt blue A-line skirt in papery eel skin that formed one half of the lineup's best looks which indicated that the collection was to be a serious , sophisticated affair. The precision and expert craftsmanship was brilliant. They sure did not shy from the bad-taste elements like the tiger-print car interiors ad the palette of orange, green and gold that dropped out of fashion in the late Seventies. I loved the play of silhouettes, textures and the mash-up of neon and tropical prints. The talents of these young men that form Proenza Schouler are never out of sync and always have everyone look forward to every collection season after season.
Ralph Lauren offered a very sophisticated and demure spring collection that was inspired by the looks of the Twenties. This was one of the most sophisticated collections for Spring 2012. The day looks of faded floral looks and "vintaged" sweaters were soft in colors, fabrics and silhouette all under cloches. The suits with pants or with shorts were so clean, crisp and polished. When the evening clothes came out I thought they stole the show. I absolutely loved every single piece. I wonder if Lauren was inspired by the wedding gowns he created for his daughter Dylan and daughter-in-law Lauren. He may have had a recollection of the glorious white collection of 10 years ago, which he designed before, but after, 9/11. Either way the beautiful white and silver gowns in satins, floral metallics and crystal encrustations, were quite the stars.
The inspiration board was covered with images of dramatic and weird work of artist Kim Joon, whose large scale, swirl-heavy tattoos make for fascinating and previous viewing. Narciso Rodriguez invoked this work in his collection that the result was absolutely impressive and it exuded such a vitality that it kept my attention. The black top over white pants, that opened the show, had a bold, flapped asymmetric waistband that made a powerful statement. The intensity heightened some more with off beat geometry, stripes, bands of squares going this way and that, hard lines keeping company with gentle curves. Joon brought him to a larger range of Asian references like the traditional silks and kimonos which were cut up into collage pieces. The pale colors and and bold graphics were quite soothing amidst all the overload of prints on the runway this season. The show closing dresses of white and pale silver jacquard were quite gentle. Rodriguez did a beautiful work and the essence of his talent radiated from every piece in this line up.
L'Wren Scott is evolving more as a designer than Mick Jagger's girlfriend. She used a song from the famous rocker's first album with his new band "SuperHeavy", "One Day One Night," as a jumping point for her collection. These clothes definitely are all her.
Scott tied it all together, explaining, "I want women to be able to go straight from day to night in hyper-glamour." The fabrics had more texture than usual and Scott mixed them with great ease. There were metallic brocades and rich embroidery. A red cardigan worn with white cropped pants and the chartreuse version over a striped silk shirts and long jersey skirt were a couple of examples. This L'Wren Scott show was not necessarily a cohesive collection but it sure had a wonderful random selection of silhouettes, colors, fabrics and influential decades. Scott has a very hip fan base that keeps expanding and she basically can afford to design her collections her own way.
Michael Kors said that if he could commute, his new South Beach would be the Singita Lodges in South Africa. He and his husband Lance Le Pere have been there three times. For this spring, Kors brought some of it with him to the runway. He had a lot to offer and the connection with nature with a mixture of modernity showed, inspired in part by Lauren Hutton and Peter Beard. The adventure was all set for in earth tones and easy silhouettes. Some garments were in gauzzy weights or heftier fabrics washed and rumpled for comforts sake, and for more flamboyant moments, floating georgette ponchos and caftans. There were some impressive pieces that refined the rugged. The palette of colors looked drab and the punches of rusts and orangy reds did not give a boost. The zebra prints gave a nice dose of graphic clarity. All in all this was a collection of practical chic with sex appeal and joy.
This was a hell of an exquisite collection. It took my breath away. I remember how Ralph Rucci makes the most wearable collections that have a most couture touch and quality to them yet making them accessible to any woman. The fabrics and the workmanship are truly splendid. There was a subtle approch which includes the plastic insets. The layers had a gentle touch as well and the embroidery and embellishments never overpowered any of the sihouettes. For the most part, insets and dramatic seaming had a light touch. There seemed to be some fun woth some details such as the white longcoat with playful black circles. This collection was pretty strong because of its restraint as well as its execution shown in the gorgeous gowns. Rucci always delivers extraordinary clothes that can make anyone feel abundant, prosperous and elegant.
This season Anna Sui was on trend with the prints and retro look. This collection looked pretty fresh. The inspiration is famed fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez and his time in Paris in the Seventies. What was enjoyable was the Forties vibe featuring the feather chubbies, bow blouses with flouncy skirts, and jumpsuits worn with matching turbans and socks with striped Hush Puppies. The prints were stars and bows, to flowers and fairies, to chickens and rabbits, and graced the clothes to all manners and accessories. Girly looks from lacy tap pants, sheer midriffs, swingy skirts and even a big plastic heart on a chain. This is a collection that was entirely wearable and fun. Why not have fun this coming this spring? Laugh a little! Be fun!
The inspiration was the Baroque style of Dorothy Draper. The ideas of the interior decorator's sensibility was infused into the J.Mendel collection. There was color blocking, printed and paneled dresses that were loosely belted at the waist and featured details such as pleating or revealing vents. Fabulous column gowns, many with sequined embroidery, plunging necklines and high slits for added sex appeal. Of course there were the furs that the house of J.Mendel is known for. Done in mink, goat and alpaca had a cloudlike effect, appearing on small boleros and vests. There were some designs that had no steam such as the dresses with the cutaway hemlines, but despite of this, Mendel designed a collection that turned out great for spring.
Reed Krakoff is one of the most successful creative heads in the industry admired and respected around the world for his contributions at Coach. In the two years that he has gotten into sportswear he has dealt with growing pains that are truly essential to his craft. This season displays a wonderful feminine take by using colors like yellow, orange and nude, and chiffon and lightweight leathers that added a more fluid touch to the lineup. Using cellophane for pleated skirts and panel dresses showed that he had a willingness to experiment. The fresh perspective that he offered on the print trend for the season were his abstract eagle motifs on silk jacquard and leather designs. More wearable clothes were created this time around than in the past and the process of his growth is having Krakoff get more clearer with his message.
Looking forward to seeing what he will come up with for Fall/Winter 2012!
"The Great Gatsby" speaks through Alberta Ferretti who created a wonderful lineup of beautifully executed dresses that were all breathtaking in more ways than one. She is known for her mastery over tulle and chiffon, she reworked the materials in a stunning effect with intricate beading and embroideries on pastel-hued dropwaisted dresses, below the knee or longer, and layered over silk slips, that could double as stand-alone pieces. There were a few cable-knit swearers with subtle silver metallic coating that added a nice sportif element that added to the Gatsby spirit. The dresses in this collection are true gems if you are ecer invited to a "Great Gatsby" party or to any award after-party coming up. Ferretti listened well to the inspiration she received this time around and delivered.
After seeing a whole lot of rich over-the-top prints and loud color combos it is Phillip Lim that calmed things down with his sorbet colors such as ivory peach, pink and yellow with silhouettes that were quite soothing. There were loose blousy razor back tanks and lanky track pants that zipped on the sides that concealed or revealed a stripe. A layering and exploring asymmetric cuts and splicing garments in half displayed some examples of how breezy these garments can be. Kites were the source of his inspiration thus showing a hint of serenity in small doses. I enjoyed the minimalism in this collection and I think many people will too.
Amy Smilovic went for a cleaned-up minimalist and purist look for her latest Tibi collection. This is giving those that are looking for quieter alternatives to the sea of prints that will flood the stores next spring. She offered flowing dresses, ensembles that are relaxed in fit, and the color palette was pleasing to the eye - mint and salmon for soft hues. The white-brocade motif applied to green and black color block looks, had a graphic feel that worked nicely with the rest of this strong lineup.
Tibi
Spring/Summer 2012
Ronald Shamask
Shamask has been around all this time. Only this time he returned to show business with a collection that was a blend of great fabrics, color, geometry and assemetry that blends art and commerce. There were clever details that add nice touches that do not distract. Swingy dresses and leathers added some grace to this collection. Shamask is back and many are really glad that he presented a nice Spring/Summer collection.
Threeasfour is the trio that consists of Adi Gil, Gabi Asfour and Angela Donhauser and they created a collection that shows that they enjoy pushing boundaries. In this case it is inspiration. Their beautiful Middle Eastern line up explored the idea of unity and friendship as it relates to multiculturalism. The setting of their show took place in St. Patrick's old Cathedral and was a display of beautiful lightweight fabrics, cutaway coats, flowing cotton dresses, many with a Jewish star print, and the controversial Muslim Keffiyeh scarves draped around necks. These clothes were not only beautiful but also wearable.
Threeasfour
Spring/Summer 2012
There were so many beautiful dresses and there was everything but the kitchen sink. Naeem Khan is a designer who has years of experience in eveningwear and has a loyal clientele which includes the First Lady, Michelle Obama. The collection lacked continuity in a big way. Anything that you are looking for, he's got it. I am not sure which direction he was going with his designs, yet they were beautiful.
Naeem Khan
Spring/Summer 2012
When there is a combination of Ancient Egypt - the land of gods and goddesses, Pharaohs and a very majestic Cleopatra, the result is a collection that is well polished and Elie Tahari followed these guiding inspirations. There were gold mesh dresses and skirts, delicate harem pants, a fine python print for casual trousers and sheer pleating details. Gold embroidery on linen jackets and accessories like tasseled belts enhanced the rich feel of the clothes, while slightly faded hues added a casual elegant element to the collection. Tahari produced a fine collection that will do well for this coming spring.
An art collection of U.S. Olympic athletes at the most recent Venice Biennale was the inspiration for Nanette Lepore. There was an athletic vibe in her very feminine collection that was washed with bright neon colors. She played with structures and proportions such as jackets with peplum, polished buttoned-up shirts and sexy cropped tops which were all paired with full circle skirts. What stood out really strongly were the neon colors - shades of citron, tangerine and hibiscus pink - all providing a joyful and youthful energetic flair.
Douglas Hannant designed a collection that was young and lady like with a touch of sport. This collection will bring in new followers in addition to his old ones. There were some beautiful blouses, sexy knit dresses, and pretty cocktail dresses. This is such a fresh collection and is worth having a peek to pick a spring outfit.
Douglas Hannant
Spring/Summer 2012
Fiona Cibani has been going down the architectural road for a few seasons now and the results continue to be mixed. At Ports 1961 beautiful linear dresses and wrap vests and jackets tie with a neon cord were nice touches. Knit color blocked dresses were quite chic. And some suits were just the perfect looks for Spring 2012. There were some sheaths with intricate draping and pattern plays. There were some odd fabric choices (crinkle viscose and puffy plissé)and knit pants that were fashioned in rouching which is not a friend to any woman over 105 pounds.
Ports 1960
Spring/Summer 2012
Michelle Smith put forth a show with geometric prints, zigzag patterns, electric colors, color blocking in beautiful linear shapes and looks. This entire line is done in a very clever way that there were no mistakes in any color or print combination at all. Artist Sonia Delaunay is the inspiration for this designer's vision for Spring /Summer 2012 and there will be no resisting a design from Milly by Michelle Smith.
When I saw the first look turn the corner and then walk down the runway I knew what to expect for this collection by Oscar de la Renta. This was a collection of beauty and exuberance that really demnstrated the exquisite vision that de la Renta had for Spring/Summer 2012. There was something not only for a certain kind of woman but for every type of woman. This is for the proper ladies, debutantes, the sex pot, even for the kind of woman who has a bohemian streak. The embellishments were rich and lavish: airy organza appliques, to sassy allover tassels and major sequins encrustations. Crochet and lace was throughout and the beautiful evening gowns were to salivate over.
I especially loved this pastel pink feathered column dress that effortlessly floated down the runway. It was fantastic!
Oscar still has the elegant touch and it is never to be underestimated!
The Mulleavy sisters are now at the point of an ongoing challenge of merging the commercial and artistic endeavors. It is quite wonderful to see how far they have gotten. Each time they show their collection it is so obvious how they think out of the box and push the limits of using color, textures and shapes fearlessly, thus creating collections that look modern, artistic and feminine. This Rodarte collection bore the evidence of a desire to be more commercial while protecting the artistry at the core of their work.
Inspired by Van Gogh - his sunflowers, swirls of stars, brushstrokes and vibrant colors - the clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, contsruction and fantastical gowns. Off-the-shoulder dresses that were draped at the shoulders in a floral-print are true and feminine. A structured cocktail dress with a dropped waist and folded circle skirt looked new. A beautiful gown of iridescent seafoam tulle in sunflower embroidery was a treasure. What could not be seen is the internal construction. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure. The designers' fixation on craft was apparent on some of the frocks. In the mix were tapered, cropped pants, tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters that would be a feast for retailers.
I think that this collection would put a smile on Van Gogh's face. It sure put a smile on mine.
When designers are experimenting, evaluating and even challenging themselves there is an amazing artistic result that manifests from this process. This spring it is no wonder that Vera Wang named her collection for spring after Alice. This collection was a wonderful way of seeing through the looking glass where intrigue and madness is found in many wonderful ways. Wang's look was focused on intricate bodice construction and layering of airy fabrics - opaque, transparent, piqued, otherwise perforated - cut and crafted with incredible attention to detail. There were references of couture and sports alike. Some looks were manipulated in 18th-century wallpaper that Wang called "trippy," and in the diaphanous cutaway-skirt motif.
Apart from the lovely, pastel and gentle gray palette the collection had quite a few beauties and overall was delightfully exquisite. This collection could have been shown in Paris. It had the quality and creative impact that I look for in the collections in Paris. I think that Alice would agree.
Tory Burch showed a collection full of Twenties charm. She was inspired by seeing the play "Gatz" (a marathon reading of "The Great Gatsby"), Picasso's "The Bathers", and Jaques Henri Larigue's photographs of Deauville. The roaring twenties proved to be a great influence and created quite a diversity of wearable clothes that could be mixed or matched without any difficulty. The colors centered mostly in seafoam green and corals, with light floral patterns to enhance the feminine feel. For day she teamed looks such as a gold lamésweaters with chiffon and lame skirts. She certainly turned up the volume cocktail and evening range, with sequined tops and dresses in a blue and white wave pattern, and flowing silk chiffon dresses.
I enjoyed seeing this collection because it was a great way to see how a creative play of prints and fabrics were done and Burch certainly did an impressive job. Since she opened her Madison Avenue flagship store she has so much more to offer now from day to evening, including her fun bags.
Tory Burch is expanding and moving forward day by day and she is doing a great job.
For this spring Mark Badgley and James Mischka produced a collection full of flourishes such as ruffles, oversize bows, and peplums. Their Badgley Mischka, Couture and Mark + James collections were very Southern Belle according to WWD (indeed, it was). I thought that it was feminine with a twist of glamour. There were brocade sheaths and mattelissé gowns, all with yards of tiers and peplums.the magenta gazar sheath, the pale green floral printed gown, and the shantung dress with a boldly draped neckline and peplum-waisted pencil skirt were quite lovely. Jackets and shorts were playful with sequins and added a sporty slant to the show. Even though the collections were combined, the presentation looked quite disjointed as a result. Badgley and Mischka were at their best with the last two georgette gowns that floated down the runway: one in blush tiers, the other, nude and embroidered. These boys are definitely your go-to for spring.
This collection by Sophie Theallet was an amazing statement of couture in New York. I say couture because of Theallet's training at Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier. The inspiration is from the 1969 film "La Piscine" which projected sexual tension and bold color. The lineup opened with a group of noticeable short or floor-duster dresses that revealed a bit of skin. There were some bold prints on graphic and another had tulips. The blousy satin dresses showed a freedom that was elegant and sensual. Theallet has a remarkable touch with her craftsmanship and proves that she makes clothes that is fit for a woman of any body type. She is truly a couturier at heart. Remarkable.
What a hell of a T&A Betsey Johnson collection! The show opened with daughter Lulu who wore a sexy, fitted gown that pushed up her boobs and set the runway on fire. This sure set the tone for what walked down the runway. A black bustier matched with leopard print pants, a baby pink cropped T-shirt with frilly slip skirt, to the complete head to toe spangled silver dress were all enough to set a man on fire, so to speak. Johnson sure dished it out and at the end she cartwheeled down the runway past her grand daughters and Nicki Minaj. Betsey, you make us smile back at you!
The Sixties was a big influence in the Alice + Olivia spring collection. A secret garden set the stage for the colorful and playful presentation. This was a collection of youthful ensembles that can satisfy a fashionista's wardrobe. Stacy Bendet really knows her costumer and is doing pretty well.
Alice + Olivia
Spring/Summer 2012
I was impressed by Giullietta, a collection designed by Sofia Sizzi that was inspired by a Veroushka shoot in a 1968 Vogue issue. This was her second outing and I was glad to see the retro looks done in fresh and updated ways that created an elegant and streamlined collection.
Giulietta
Spring/Summer 2012
Bibhu Mohapatra went to a recent Berlin exhibition of Helmut Newton Polaroids from the Seventies and Eighties which inspired him to create a sensual and sophisticated collection. He sought to make "skin the embellishment" playing with sheer panels on some ensembles. Tailored suits, sheer blouses, and plenty of polished dresses were present. His column dresses were embroidered and pleated. The chain print added a hard edge to his lady like dresses. This was a nice and enjoyable exhibition of clothes.
Beginnings is what Diane von Furstenberg called her collection. She thought this was appropriate for the 10th anniversary of 9/11. "It is about what I can do and how light changes everything. I did something I've never done before. I started with white." She opened with a beautiful reinvention of her signature wrap circle skirt dress, not in her signature slinky jersey, but in a crisp cotton for a shirtdress with a full circle skirt that appeared to be tied on. The collection was inspired by Africa. "Not the colonial Africa and not Africa safari, but Africa of today." I have to say that I was so impressed and felt a sense of joy watching her collection. It was full of white, cool lime green, powder blue and some violet and the prints gave my eyes joy.. There were a combination of layering that were done in a beautiful and new ways that gave the ensembles a fresh, sensual and elegant look. Yes, there was an elegant theme throughout and I believe many women will be shopping for some DVFclothes for spring without a doubt! How can one resist?
With all the prints being presented for this spring season, Victoria Beckham showed a collection with colors that were predominantly black, navy and white in the beginning with a spot of vibrant orange. There were some structuring of shapes and fabrics with some color blocking. When she went softer, it was with pleated crepe skirts attached externally to techno-stretch bodices. The lines went from curvaceous to easy and lengths were long and short. Her outerwear were shown in beautiful iridescent shades of lilac, blue and gray. Hoods, drawstring and tapes of the athletic vernacular were worn over crisp short dresses that flashed a sportswear vibe. Will Beckham consider putting in sportswear in her line? She is noncommittal, but you never know.
Prabal Gurung designed a collection that had a lot going on. Prints left a big impression. A series of photographs titled "Sensual Flowers" by the Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki, inspired Gurung's engineered prints in shades of purple, teal, and black. Piping, splicing, sheer tulle, and harnesses were sometimes put together all in one garment and were the details that were the thread through the entire collection in some of the other garments. Now, those distinctive prints where on the front of georgette dresses, the patterns matching up like Rorschach images. They looked similar like the prints Alexander McQueen used in his "Atlantis" collection. Gurung's prints were less aggressive than McQueen's yet they were beautifully rendered and had impact. Gurung pushed himself with this collection and even though there were excess in details, he maintained a young aesthetic. After years in Bill Blass, Gurung burst into the scene. And you know what? He is doing great because he pushes himself and continues to evolve.
Derek Lam was inspired by Richard Neutra, Palm Springs and the Rat Pack. Sleek and architectural ensembles walked down the runway with some sunny desert colors and some retro men's look. The show was mostly about an American look that was modern and had a nice snappy and crisp ambiance threading throughout the entire collection. The symmetrical prints were sharp and had a wonderful Pucci-esque feel to them. Towards the end of the presentation there were some simple, elegant fashion forward jumpsuits that were one of the best for this Spring 2012 season. Lam certainly knows American design and he does it well.
There is a streamline and sportiness to Monique Lhullier this spring. Looks that were body conscious, minimal, had a fine sense of youthfulness and some bold colors that was playful. This was not her usual red carpet fanfare that she shows often. There were some trompe l'oeil dresses that had a nice optical illusion touch with either lace or sequins. A splatter print trench showed her spunky spirit. Leather and lace were seen on some garments as inserts, adding a nice modern twist to some simple looks. This was definitely a collection that showed that Lhullier was experimenting and it all worked out just fine.
Ruffian's Brian Wolk says "Our spring girl rides by day and cocktails by night. So he and Claude Morais went for a jockey them throughout much of the collection. Lots of black and white until things picked up with some red and fuchsia. High point is that there are some great tailoring for evening. Antonio Azzulo's A.A. presentation was hit with a high note when Anna Wintour dropped by to see the work of the latest CFDA Incubator winners. There were some tailored looks, Seventies YSL style, jackets and ties with pants. Finally, the result was a well executed collection. Cynthia Rowley had a collection that was a bit all over the place. Her flirty dresses kept things in balance, yet the stiff bonded pieces, especially the zigzag or botanical print pants were not flattering to the eye. If she just kept her Rowley lighter touch, she would have been right on track with her vision. L.A.M.B showed and Gwen Estefani was not there. Maxidresses were center stage in oversized ikat print, military inspired jackets and cargo pants. There were also flared mini skirts and drapy knits, which were all fun. Tracy Reese must have felt really leisurely this time. Lots of her signature girlish frocks and ensembles perfect for the seaside or some relaxed walks in the park. Her bohemian flare was definitely present. Even though there were some nice ensembles here, the collection had some random ideas that could have been edited to present a more cohesive message.
Daryl K has been existing for 20 years. She usually works with her black and white aesthetic, but for spring in a collaboration with Spencer Sweeny, there were some vibrant, abstract prints. The "jumpdress" came out of this collection. It was refreshing and had energy.
Daryl K
Spring/Summer 2012
Adam Lippes was inspired by the High Line Park, which he can see from his studio window. The collection was charming and focused on bright colors, bold prints and flirty shapes. There was a girly vibe with the help of some floral dresses and ivory linen versions with embroidered lace panels, as well as short skirts and cropped pants rendered in floral -printed denim and delicately sheer coats. This collection was modern and had a bit of savvy.
Adam
Spring/Summer 2012
DKNY should be spelled CHIC. It was effortless chic. Full of long flowy silhouettes, neutral colors (cream, black, navy, tan) and brights (royal blue, red, hot pink), head to toe looks either monochromatic or in print, and some tailored looks. Yes. This is CHIC spelled DKNY.
John Hartig mostly left out color for the Libertine collection for Spring/Summer 2012 and presented clothes with graphic prints in black and white. There were some tongue-in-cheek T-shirts and a skirt with the phrase "Tax the rich more." The clothes were quite appealing and included a playful spirit such as the splattering of x's and o's and circle and stripe prints. Keep it coming, Libertine!
Libertine
Spring/Summer 2012
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty created a pretty Suno collection that was chic and prefect for the Spring and Summer season for 2012. Cotton lace, polka dots, stripes, florals, and metallics were featured. Looks like Osterweis and Beatty had a fun time designing for this collection. It shows!
Suno
Spring/Summer 2012
They are committed in making beautiful clothes while developing trade with Africa. Ali Hewson and her husband, Bono, believe that style should have substance. For Edun's collection there is a mixture of African prints mixed with florals. There are grommets on pants, laser-cut jumpsuits and sexy dresses. This is definitely a wearable collection that many women would enjoy for Spring/Summer 2012.
This is a collection that was extremely potent with elegance and sophistication and a wonderful modernity that Carolina Herrera designed for Spring/Summer 2012. She was inspired by Bauhaus and it's influence in art, fashion, interiors, lifestyle, colors and shapes. The clothes were delivered in lines, blocks and stripes and various geometric renderings. The beautiful bird prints on her dresses and separates were quite charming. The colors are inspired by Bakelite bracelets. Her signature staples are present in this collection which, of course, can not do without. Her evening wear in a splendor that is to die for or to live for. Her vision for evening all constructed and fluid was a treat and I could not have taken my eyes off of it as the elegance of it captured my attention.
Carolina Herrera is truly a master of classic style and constantly keeps designing collections that are modern and fresh.
Donna Karan loves Haiti. She spends a great deal of time there and channels her philanthropic efforts there. For this season she was inspired by Haiti. According to her notes she is constantly inspired by her passions.
Her passions were indeed expressed. The collection had well made clothes that had tribal motifs, some graphic configurations that some had studs outlining them, and some prints. The colors in this collection were muddy and drab in the sense that white, black and mud brown were dominant. There were a citrus green and tangerine dresses for evening that did not do the trick to add some life to the color pallet of the collection. Again, this collection was well made and had the commercial clout, but the colors did not do the trick.
The Plaza Hotel was where Thakoon Panichgul's Spring/Summer Collection show took place. This was a wonderful presentation that showed a mixture of references and cultures mixed together brilliantly. It was India mixed with Marie Antoinette in colors that were bright, and there were prints and paisleys that were mixed with some lace and embroideries. Thakoon mixed Indian looks with American sportswear ideas and his mission was accomplished. This colliding of different worlds was effortless for Thakoon to make into a brilliant fashion cocktail of looks.
After showing a couple of times in Paris, Zac Posen came back home to New York and showed an extremely modern, sophisticated, glamorous collection that one cannot resist. There was no gimmick and there was no forcing in making any kind of statement. In fact the statement that Posen made was effortless.
For this season there is a focus on construction and an experimentation in color and shapes. Embroidery and cording is present throughout and the clever details were on point. One spectacular dress after another came out and they all certainly caught the attention of everyone in the room.
A feast of potential red carpet gowns are imminent. Stylists! Get cracking for the next award season!!
Zac Posen, congratulations and welcome home! You made a great point with your collection and did an amazing job!
Just seeing the collection by Thom Browne, it kept me wondering what will come up after the first garment came out. The show was set up in the Edna Barnes Salomon Room of the New York Public Library, looking much like the Twenties with some nice furniture. A gray haired lady hosted a party that took place in the set up. Models wore a silhouette that was lean and long, broad and wide shouldered, with layerings of jackets, textures and fabrics. A really weird show and interesting at the same time.
Thom Browne
Spring/Summer 2012
Drawing inspiration from the Baja Californian desert and Luis Barraga's poetic use of color such as rust, sand, dusty rose and light blue, Rebecca Minkoff showed a collection that has a lot to offer. Shorts, flyaway handkerchief hems, flowing dresses and skirts with uneven hems, were present. The collection was heavy on abstract prints layered in flowing chiffon pieces. If Minkoff edited her collection a bit, it would have been a more focused one.
Rebecca Minkoff
Spring/Summer 2012
Chritian Siriano is the most successful "Project Runway" winner by far. This collection was focused entirely on cocktail and evening wear. He went from T-shirts worn with ball skirts to big poufs that were kind of silly. He did go a bit more commercial with his collection. He just has to make clothes that are a bit more wearable and move away from some of the way things are made on reality TV.
Christian Siriano
Spring/Summer 2012
Although there is such a variety of talent in New York, these designers are all doing what they do best at daring to create new silhouettes and textures. This is what is keeping New York designers interesting because they are not afraid to take a risk.
