What a hell of a T&A Betsey Johnson collection! The show opened with daughter Lulu who wore a sexy, fitted gown that pushed up her boobs and set the runway on fire. This sure set the tone for what walked down the runway. A black bustier matched with leopard print pants, a baby pink cropped T-shirt with frilly slip skirt, to the complete head to toe spangled silver dress were all enough to set a man on fire, so to speak. Johnson sure dished it out and at the end she cartwheeled down the runway past her grand daughters and Nicki Minaj. Betsey, you make us smile back at you!
The Sixties was a big influence in the Alice + Olivia spring collection. A secret garden set the stage for the colorful and playful presentation. This was a collection of youthful ensembles that can satisfy a fashionista's wardrobe. Stacy Bendet really knows her costumer and is doing pretty well.
Alice + Olivia
I was impressed by Giullietta, a collection designed by Sofia Sizzi that was inspired by a Veroushka shoot in a 1968 Vogue issue. This was her second outing and I was glad to see the retro looks done in fresh and updated ways that created an elegant and streamlined collection.
Bibhu Mohapatra went to a recent Berlin exhibition of Helmut Newton Polaroids from the Seventies and Eighties which inspired him to create a sensual and sophisticated collection. He sought to make "skin the embellishment" playing with sheer panels on some ensembles. Tailored suits, sheer blouses, and plenty of polished dresses were present. His column dresses were embroidered and pleated. The chain print added a hard edge to his lady like dresses. This was a nice and enjoyable exhibition of clothes.
Beginnings is what Diane von Furstenberg called her collection. She thought this was appropriate for the 10th anniversary of 9/11. "It is about what I can do and how light changes everything. I did something I've never done before. I started with white." She opened with a beautiful reinvention of her signature wrap circle skirt dress, not in her signature slinky jersey, but in a crisp cotton for a shirtdress with a full circle skirt that appeared to be tied on. The collection was inspired by Africa. "Not the colonial Africa and not Africa safari, but Africa of today." I have to say that I was so impressed and felt a sense of joy watching her collection. It was full of white, cool lime green, powder blue and some violet and the prints gave my eyes joy.. There were a combination of layering that were done in a beautiful and new ways that gave the ensembles a fresh, sensual and elegant look. Yes, there was an elegant theme throughout and I believe many women will be shopping for some DVFclothes for spring without a doubt! How can one resist?
With all the prints being presented for this spring season, Victoria Beckham showed a collection with colors that were predominantly black, navy and white in the beginning with a spot of vibrant orange. There were some structuring of shapes and fabrics with some color blocking. When she went softer, it was with pleated crepe skirts attached externally to techno-stretch bodices. The lines went from curvaceous to easy and lengths were long and short. Her outerwear were shown in beautiful iridescent shades of lilac, blue and gray. Hoods, drawstring and tapes of the athletic vernacular were worn over crisp short dresses that flashed a sportswear vibe. Will Beckham consider putting in sportswear in her line? She is noncommittal, but you never know.
Prabal Gurung designed a collection that had a lot going on. Prints left a big impression. A series of photographs titled "Sensual Flowers" by the Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki, inspired Gurung's engineered prints in shades of purple, teal, and black. Piping, splicing, sheer tulle, and harnesses were sometimes put together all in one garment and were the details that were the thread through the entire collection in some of the other garments. Now, those distinctive prints where on the front of georgette dresses, the patterns matching up like Rorschach images. They looked similar like the prints Alexander McQueen used in his "Atlantis" collection. Gurung's prints were less aggressive than McQueen's yet they were beautifully rendered and had impact. Gurung pushed himself with this collection and even though there were excess in details, he maintained a young aesthetic. After years in Bill Blass, Gurung burst into the scene. And you know what? He is doing great because he pushes himself and continues to evolve.
Derek Lam was inspired by Richard Neutra, Palm Springs and the Rat Pack. Sleek and architectural ensembles walked down the runway with some sunny desert colors and some retro men's look. The show was mostly about an American look that was modern and had a nice snappy and crisp ambiance threading throughout the entire collection. The symmetrical prints were sharp and had a wonderful Pucci-esque feel to them. Towards the end of the presentation there were some simple, elegant fashion forward jumpsuits that were one of the best for this Spring 2012 season. Lam certainly knows American design and he does it well.
There is a streamline and sportiness to Monique Lhullier this spring. Looks that were body conscious, minimal, had a fine sense of youthfulness and some bold colors that was playful. This was not her usual red carpet fanfare that she shows often. There were some trompe l'oeil dresses that had a nice optical illusion touch with either lace or sequins. A splatter print trench showed her spunky spirit. Leather and lace were seen on some garments as inserts, adding a nice modern twist to some simple looks. This was definitely a collection that showed that Lhullier was experimenting and it all worked out just fine.
Ruffian's Brian Wolk says "Our spring girl rides by day and cocktails by night. So he and Claude Morais went for a jockey them throughout much of the collection. Lots of black and white until things picked up with some red and fuchsia. High point is that there are some great tailoring for evening. Antonio Azzulo's A.A. presentation was hit with a high note when Anna Wintour dropped by to see the work of the latest CFDA Incubator winners. There were some tailored looks, Seventies YSL style, jackets and ties with pants. Finally, the result was a well executed collection. Cynthia Rowley had a collection that was a bit all over the place. Her flirty dresses kept things in balance, yet the stiff bonded pieces, especially the zigzag or botanical print pants were not flattering to the eye. If she just kept her Rowley lighter touch, she would have been right on track with her vision. L.A.M.B showed and Gwen Estefani was not there. Maxidresses were center stage in oversized ikat print, military inspired jackets and cargo pants. There were also flared mini skirts and drapy knits, which were all fun. Tracy Reese must have felt really leisurely this time. Lots of her signature girlish frocks and ensembles perfect for the seaside or some relaxed walks in the park. Her bohemian flare was definitely present. Even though there were some nice ensembles here, the collection had some random ideas that could have been edited to present a more cohesive message.
Daryl K has been existing for 20 years. She usually works with her black and white aesthetic, but for spring in a collaboration with Spencer Sweeny, there were some vibrant, abstract prints. The "jumpdress" came out of this collection. It was refreshing and had energy.
Adam Lippes was inspired by the High Line Park, which he can see from his studio window. The collection was charming and focused on bright colors, bold prints and flirty shapes. There was a girly vibe with the help of some floral dresses and ivory linen versions with embroidered lace panels, as well as short skirts and cropped pants rendered in floral -printed denim and delicately sheer coats. This collection was modern and had a bit of savvy.
DKNY should be spelled CHIC. It was effortless chic. Full of long flowy silhouettes, neutral colors (cream, black, navy, tan) and brights (royal blue, red, hot pink), head to toe looks either monochromatic or in print, and some tailored looks. Yes. This is CHIC spelled DKNY.
John Hartig mostly left out color for the Libertine collection for Spring/Summer 2012 and presented clothes with graphic prints in black and white. There were some tongue-in-cheek T-shirts and a skirt with the phrase "Tax the rich more." The clothes were quite appealing and included a playful spirit such as the splattering of x's and o's and circle and stripe prints. Keep it coming, Libertine!
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty created a pretty Suno collection that was chic and prefect for the Spring and Summer season for 2012. Cotton lace, polka dots, stripes, florals, and metallics were featured. Looks like Osterweis and Beatty had a fun time designing for this collection. It shows!
They are committed in making beautiful clothes while developing trade with Africa. Ali Hewson and her husband, Bono, believe that style should have substance. For Edun's collection there is a mixture of African prints mixed with florals. There are grommets on pants, laser-cut jumpsuits and sexy dresses. This is definitely a wearable collection that many women would enjoy for Spring/Summer 2012.