This time around for the fall and winter season, Tory Burch offers a collection that was sophisticated with body conscious silhouettes that had a prim touch yet an underlying sexiness and they were seductive as well. The accessories that mixed well with these looks were framed handbags with plastic floral pailletes and tortoise chains, some which looked a bit Marni-ish. Plenty of romance was offered as well. A ruched chiffon dress and an organza applique top with a tweed skirt. There were men's wear touches of hounds tooth plaid that were in the mix. It was especially quite noticeable in a sequined hounds tooth sequined dress, as well as plaid pants with hand-painted leather jackets. Other looks added some edge to the collection.
This was a pleasant line up that offered looks for women of all ages and had a true fall and winter look that offers warmth and coziness to any wardrobe.
The models entered and exited on the runway by escalators on either end of the Grand Promenade inside Avery Fisher Hall.
This fantastic collection radiated a powerful, clean, elegant and sophisticated femininity by Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti that was absolutely breath taking. Ferretti looked at today's career driven youth for today's inspiration. "They pay more attention to their future." The line up was strong and was layered and had modern touches. It opened with a crisp white power suit cinched at the waist which was a perfect beginning to the theme of the show.
It evolved to slightly stricter silhouettes. The fabulous coats were tailored and chic like the camel one with gradations of color at the torso. Other pieces were perfect for the board room. All this is not all about work though because there is play mixed in all of this. There were looks that featured high glamour moments which were several metallic and PVC dresses that were futuristic within the classic looks and several other beaded shift dresses.
Alberta Ferretti this go around showed a more cleaner and sharper collection that compared to last season's Twenties version was a whisper to the future with class and power.
Proenza Schouler has moved forward for the fall 2012 season with clothes that had an Eastern influence. If you think karate, kimonos and samurai you will get the jist. The silhouette they played with is oversized which is a trend that they seem to make official for the season. The tops and pants came in stiff white cottons, like karate gis, or in waxy black leather.
Leather is a big element here. The designers worked it by weaving thin strips of leather in navy, black and white say, into a tiny grid for a side-zip jacket. The quilted satin varsity jackets embroidered with pheasants on the chest were really impressive and this is the same for the woven paillette skirts which these were paired with. This showed the wonderful handiwork of these designers. The wonderful brocade they used for long-sleeve dresses were marvelous in the construction that they almost looked like jackets and flippy miniskirts.
It is a remarkable collection and showed that evolution for these designers is on going and it is wonderful to watch. They have no problem in taking any risks in trying out new ideas and that is one of the most amazing qualities they have. The fashion crowd is always pleased and look forward for more. Proenza Schouler, keep up the good work!
L'Wrenn Scott called this collection Tea Time. A perfect name for a line up that had details and influences of England from the 1900's to WWII. Fitted and lean silhouettes walked down and showed ensembles that was a pure mixture of jewel tones and bright spots of color washed with some black. Scott does a great job in showing the female body by designing pieces that basically come in different lengths, fabrics and details that celebrates femininity that is seductive and sexy in a glamorous and stylish way.
A cream number of a fitted jacket over a slinky number and a bow in the back on the neck was a charm and a dark olive sweater embroidered in the front and yellow plush fur on the shoulder matching with a pair of sexy cut tweed pants was whimsical. To continue the whimsy she offered printed tea dresses with swishy skirts that were playful and sexy.
A sharp ensemble of a purple brocade jacket over a matching ponyskin skirt and fuchsia chiffon blouse trimmed with velvet bows radiates modern glamour.
The show could not be with out a line up of evening drama. It went from from a velvet over the knee dress to a beaded tunic over black pants for cocktail to slinky floor sweeping satin dress to a regal black velvet finale number.
Scott continues to design her own way and has a strong point of view that she needs to maintain. This collection shows the signature L'Wrenn Scott look and it is sticking.
This fall Reed Krakoff created more body conscious garments which is shows an evolution to his signature minimalist style. This is his fifth season and this time around he discovered the waist. A brown polished leather coat nipped in the midsection and falling in an A-line shape to the knee and a black python bandeau that gave shape to a chiffon blouse and trousers were a couple of perfect examples. White, black and red were the main colors mixed in with ivory, grey and brown. Krakoff did not exclusively offer hourglass silhouettes.
He offered crisp pantsuits some of which could have worked on their own without the bulk of the cropped, hooded vests he showed with some of them. Knits were good looking and were great basics put together with some ensembles and perfectly so since it is a part of his burgeoning business. Fur patches on the sleeves of one and a front panel leather on another upped the special factor. What was missing were cocktail and evening which he entirely opted out and he only showed three bags in 30 looks. No matter because all of his looks really kept up the cleanliness and the quality of his collection.