An art collection of U.S. Olympic athletes at the most recent Venice Biennale was the inspiration for Nanette Lepore. There was an athletic vibe in her very feminine collection that was washed with bright neon colors. She played with structures and proportions such as jackets with peplum, polished buttoned-up shirts and sexy cropped tops which were all paired with full circle skirts. What stood out really strongly were the neon colors - shades of citron, tangerine and hibiscus pink - all providing a joyful and youthful energetic flair.
Douglas Hannant designed a collection that was young and lady like with a touch of sport. This collection will bring in new followers in addition to his old ones. There were some beautiful blouses, sexy knit dresses, and pretty cocktail dresses. This is such a fresh collection and is worth having a peek to pick a spring outfit.
Douglas Hannant
Spring/Summer 2012
Fiona Cibani has been going down the architectural road for a few seasons now and the results continue to be mixed. At Ports 1961 beautiful linear dresses and wrap vests and jackets tie with a neon cord were nice touches. Knit color blocked dresses were quite chic. And some suits were just the perfect looks for Spring 2012. There were some sheaths with intricate draping and pattern plays. There were some odd fabric choices (crinkle viscose and puffy plissé)and knit pants that were fashioned in rouching which is not a friend to any woman over 105 pounds.
Ports 1960
Spring/Summer 2012
Michelle Smith put forth a show with geometric prints, zigzag patterns, electric colors, color blocking in beautiful linear shapes and looks. This entire line is done in a very clever way that there were no mistakes in any color or print combination at all. Artist Sonia Delaunay is the inspiration for this designer's vision for Spring /Summer 2012 and there will be no resisting a design from Milly by Michelle Smith.
When I saw the first look turn the corner and then walk down the runway I knew what to expect for this collection by Oscar de la Renta. This was a collection of beauty and exuberance that really demnstrated the exquisite vision that de la Renta had for Spring/Summer 2012. There was something not only for a certain kind of woman but for every type of woman. This is for the proper ladies, debutantes, the sex pot, even for the kind of woman who has a bohemian streak. The embellishments were rich and lavish: airy organza appliques, to sassy allover tassels and major sequins encrustations. Crochet and lace was throughout and the beautiful evening gowns were to salivate over.
I especially loved this pastel pink feathered column dress that effortlessly floated down the runway. It was fantastic!
Oscar still has the elegant touch and it is never to be underestimated!
The Mulleavy sisters are now at the point of an ongoing challenge of merging the commercial and artistic endeavors. It is quite wonderful to see how far they have gotten. Each time they show their collection it is so obvious how they think out of the box and push the limits of using color, textures and shapes fearlessly, thus creating collections that look modern, artistic and feminine. This Rodarte collection bore the evidence of a desire to be more commercial while protecting the artistry at the core of their work.
Inspired by Van Gogh - his sunflowers, swirls of stars, brushstrokes and vibrant colors - the clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, contsruction and fantastical gowns. Off-the-shoulder dresses that were draped at the shoulders in a floral-print are true and feminine. A structured cocktail dress with a dropped waist and folded circle skirt looked new. A beautiful gown of iridescent seafoam tulle in sunflower embroidery was a treasure. What could not be seen is the internal construction. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure. The designers' fixation on craft was apparent on some of the frocks. In the mix were tapered, cropped pants, tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters that would be a feast for retailers.
I think that this collection would put a smile on Van Gogh's face. It sure put a smile on mine.
When designers are experimenting, evaluating and even challenging themselves there is an amazing artistic result that manifests from this process. This spring it is no wonder that Vera Wang named her collection for spring after Alice. This collection was a wonderful way of seeing through the looking glass where intrigue and madness is found in many wonderful ways. Wang's look was focused on intricate bodice construction and layering of airy fabrics - opaque, transparent, piqued, otherwise perforated - cut and crafted with incredible attention to detail. There were references of couture and sports alike. Some looks were manipulated in 18th-century wallpaper that Wang called "trippy," and in the diaphanous cutaway-skirt motif.
Apart from the lovely, pastel and gentle gray palette the collection had quite a few beauties and overall was delightfully exquisite. This collection could have been shown in Paris. It had the quality and creative impact that I look for in the collections in Paris. I think that Alice would agree.
Tory Burch showed a collection full of Twenties charm. She was inspired by seeing the play "Gatz" (a marathon reading of "The Great Gatsby"), Picasso's "The Bathers", and Jaques Henri Larigue's photographs of Deauville. The roaring twenties proved to be a great influence and created quite a diversity of wearable clothes that could be mixed or matched without any difficulty. The colors centered mostly in seafoam green and corals, with light floral patterns to enhance the feminine feel. For day she teamed looks such as a gold lamésweaters with chiffon and lame skirts. She certainly turned up the volume cocktail and evening range, with sequined tops and dresses in a blue and white wave pattern, and flowing silk chiffon dresses.
I enjoyed seeing this collection because it was a great way to see how a creative play of prints and fabrics were done and Burch certainly did an impressive job. Since she opened her Madison Avenue flagship store she has so much more to offer now from day to evening, including her fun bags.
Tory Burch is expanding and moving forward day by day and she is doing a great job.
For this spring Mark Badgley and James Mischka produced a collection full of flourishes such as ruffles, oversize bows, and peplums. Their Badgley Mischka, Couture and Mark + James collections were very Southern Belle according to WWD (indeed, it was). I thought that it was feminine with a twist of glamour. There were brocade sheaths and mattelissé gowns, all with yards of tiers and peplums.the magenta gazar sheath, the pale green floral printed gown, and the shantung dress with a boldly draped neckline and peplum-waisted pencil skirt were quite lovely. Jackets and shorts were playful with sequins and added a sporty slant to the show. Even though the collections were combined, the presentation looked quite disjointed as a result. Badgley and Mischka were at their best with the last two georgette gowns that floated down the runway: one in blush tiers, the other, nude and embroidered. These boys are definitely your go-to for spring.
This collection by Sophie Theallet was an amazing statement of couture in New York. I say couture because of Theallet's training at Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier. The inspiration is from the 1969 film "La Piscine" which projected sexual tension and bold color. The lineup opened with a group of noticeable short or floor-duster dresses that revealed a bit of skin. There were some bold prints on graphic and another had tulips. The blousy satin dresses showed a freedom that was elegant and sensual. Theallet has a remarkable touch with her craftsmanship and proves that she makes clothes that is fit for a woman of any body type. She is truly a couturier at heart. Remarkable.
