One of the key influences for this collection was the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, one of Calvin Klein's most famous former employees. There was a great sense of exploration as well that worked well with the collection. "She is very much part of this house," Costa said. "She had this really cool vibe. All the Yohji and the Calvin....There was an edge to her, the clothes were never dull."
Bessette-Kennedy's fashion sensibility could be seen in the tasteful and artful tailoring. There was a sexual dimension in several of the dresses and separates that featured bras and bustier tops, some in view and others peeking out from iunder filmy layerings. According to Costa the looks were "very pinup." That could be so, but they made up for a highly modern variation with no references to the traditional retro ideas. He also created fabulous looks playing with outting transparent fabrics over solids, using weblike moire cages over strapless sheaths.
Fransisco Costa is the perfect designer for the Calvin Klein Collections. His architectural touches influences the designs divinely and with that, the clothes have movement. As this is so, he maintains the Calvin Klein style alive, therefor it remains a strong presence in the New York fashion world.