Marc Jacobs is Brutal in Simplicity for Spring/Summer 2013.

For this spring, Marc Jacobs said that it is going to be all about restraint. According to Jacobs it is going to be "very, very, very brutal. Brutal in its simplicity. That's our new word for the season." The shift to this brutality is immense. One of the talents that Jacobs possesses is his ability ta make those giant seasonal changes while retaining his fashion identity, the trait he shares with Miuccia Prada and not many others.

His explosion of graphics has captured the attention of the fashion crowd. Rubberized leather leopard prints, micro sequined checkerboards and stripes, stripes, stripes. Is this restraint? By Jacobs' standards it is and they are absolutely wearable. Real clothes are plenty and touches of whimsy are in the mix.

The set was a huge triangular floor covered in pale leather tiles, the back wall a row of 15 revolving doors out of which the models emerged.

What emerged were silhouettes that were super elongated anchored by a low-slung skirt and jacket or coat cut lean through the shoulders worn with a perfectly matched handbag. The clothes were perfect, beautiful and sexy which is the message that Jacobs sent out for this spring season.

The lineup is a variation of short midriff-baring jackets and T-shirts over briefs. More girlier touches were curvy dresses, their wide stripes cut into flamboyant bicolored scalloped hems, and a terrific group that repeated many of the earlier shapes, in solids with ruffled two tone collars. Some linear stripes in variations that made provocative curves around the body were what Jacobs offered as well.

Evening consisted of floor-length sequinede T-shirts in contrasting black and white patterns wiht chiffon strips made for a girl to sparkle in a casual, engaging way. 

Marc Jacob has evolved so beautifully as a designer and has been consistently creating charming and feminine designs that have spirit and style.

Marc Jacobs

Spring/Summer

2013

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2012-2013 has Arrived.

"How can we outdo ourselves?" is the question Marc Jacobs asked at the same time the grand, gilded merry-go-round was being disassembled. A deliciously wicked tale of two Belle Epoque archrival divas came to mind. Jacobs had read the story by Louise J. Esterhazy column from the W magazine of yore, and retold it during a preview with the disclaimer that memory might not serve exactly. When one lady - Sarah Bernhardt? - found out that the other planned to arrive at an important ball wearing her jewelry collection en totale, she promptly trumped her nemesis by showing up in a plain black dress, trailed by her maid, who was bedecked in all her mistresses' bijoux. Marc Jacobs thought that no girl will be carrying a bag this season and that it will be carried for her.

Two massive steel doors opened and a full scale, navy blue locomotive with the name Louis Vuitton emblazoned on the tank in gold lettering, pulled into the temporary LV station at Cour Carré du Louvre blasting steam into the front row as it jugged along. All aboard were elegant ladies in crumpled pony skin hats with fluffy floral add-ons and sky high, square toe mary-janes. They all disembarked one by one, each greeted by her own uniformed porter to handle her fantastic bags. These bags were in splendid ostrich, mink, croc and more.

The clothes were as equally splendid in layers of patchworks, pony hair, holographic tweeds and jewels. Craftwork on these clothes were exquisite. Its focus was yielded extraordinary fabrications, such as jumbo mosaic beading, a floral pony hair "plaid" on coats and skirts, and holographic tweeds in trippy shades of green and purple. Each square of the incredible patchwork leathers had been numbered and meticulously pieced together like a puzzle.

Marc Jacobs said he did have a lot to work with even though this collection looked simple and brilliantly rich. This time he did outdo himself and I am sure he will do the same in the next spring season.

Louis Vuitton

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Marc Jacobs Fall 2012 Eccentric Edwardian Mix.

This collection by Marc Jacobs went through quite an adventure. A wonderful fashion fest of clothes that were wonderfully sculpted and made with beautiful custom fabrics, all punctuated by furry hats designed by Stephen Jones. The shoes were tricked-out with holograms and sparkly buckles.



After a fabric delay, due to snowy weather, an involvement of a Learjet and a spur-of-the-moment conversation between Jacobs and Rachel Feinstein that resulted in the intriguing set she designed. "I'm thinking about Puritans and Pilgrims and kind of fake melancholy," Jacobs told her. "That's right up my alley," she offered back. The result were paper thin grottoes made of a series of paper thin wood, their decrepit arches encompassing several stairs from which the models would descend. The designer said that he was also inspired by the likes of Anna Piaggi and Lynn Yager, fashion eccentrics of the first order and mash-up artists long before the Sartariolist arrived on the scene.



Stoles over coats over skirts over pants over egg shaped dresses, fitted brocade jumpers over crisp shirts came out that were pretty lyrical and quite interesting in a modern way. A subtle Edwardian silhouette with the curvature were created not with any crinoline achieved through cut and construction. Colors were many and were sprinkled throughout the collection with prints that ranged from oversized paisleys to floral pencil doodles, and holographic appliqués dripped off dresses.

A daring collection full of play of textures. colors, prints and silhouettes. Marc Jacobs is a force of nature and every season he steps over the line of 'just right' to the area of 'just fabulous'. This fall and winter season can be enjoyed with the bold creativity of Marc Jacobs.



The Final Shows for PFW 2011

When fashion week is over, the expansion of the huge buzzy and busy creative energy begins contracting or getting smaller in a good way because buyers, advertisers, editors, stylists and clients are all going back to look at every collection that was presented for Fall and come up with visions for stories for the season. Today was the last day to see what there is. What can they take with them?
The collection at Tilbot Runhoff showed a dressy collection that had dressy ensembles, dresses and gowns. Black, white, grey and a tiny bit of red were the colors. The Gowns of graphic designs made an impression.
Elie Saab was an elegant collection presented in ivory, black, purple and red. Beautiful suits and dresses were done with simplicity and ease with a touch of polish. The gowns were stunning and some of them looked as if they were dipped in beads. A lovely collection by Saab. However, I think he held back a little. Maybe there was nothing wrong with that in an understated way because he did beautiful work.

At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs offered a wonderful lineup of  unique silhouettes of ample cut designs with exaggerated sleeves. They were done in many ways that the collection did not look monotone. A delight seeing the many variations of this vision was on everyone's faces. The french maid dresses were sexy and elegant and sauntered down the runway with demure seduction. There were printed dresses as well as dresses with big buttons in the center front. The suits were so innovative and done in a quite wonderful tactful way with inspiring fabric manipulation and textures. Fabulous skirts and tops that were cinched in the waist with wide belts showed off the body.
Yes, this collection demanded the attention from everyone. And everyone paid attention. By the way, the Louis Vuitton bags and accessories are to die or to live for!

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011





The amazing 1940's inspired collection that Miuccia Prada designed for Miu Miu set the tone with the astonishing designs that radiated a clear crisp sense of confidence and glamour. Pieces with exaggerated square or rounded shoulders reminded me of some suits that Joan Crawford wore in 'Mildred Pierce'. Some of the ensembles looked like suits that Hollywood stars wore in the 40's. Dresses were hugging the body elegantly and gave an air of sophisticated class and style. This collection looked mature and there is something for everybody. No doubt about that. By the way, I loved hearing Kate Bush singing in the background during the show.

Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2011



Thank you Paris for a wonderful Fashion Week.

Au Revoir et Merci!