"How can we outdo ourselves?" is the question Marc Jacobs asked at the same time the grand, gilded merry-go-round was being disassembled. A deliciously wicked tale of two Belle Epoque archrival divas came to mind. Jacobs had read the story by Louise J. Esterhazy column from the W magazine of yore, and retold it during a preview with the disclaimer that memory might not serve exactly. When one lady - Sarah Bernhardt? - found out that the other planned to arrive at an important ball wearing her jewelry collection en totale, she promptly trumped her nemesis by showing up in a plain black dress, trailed by her maid, who was bedecked in all her mistresses' bijoux. Marc Jacobs thought that no girl will be carrying a bag this season and that it will be carried for her.
The clothes were as equally splendid in layers of patchworks, pony hair, holographic tweeds and jewels. Craftwork on these clothes were exquisite. Its focus was yielded extraordinary fabrications, such as jumbo mosaic beading, a floral pony hair "plaid" on coats and skirts, and holographic tweeds in trippy shades of green and purple. Each square of the incredible patchwork leathers had been numbered and meticulously pieced together like a puzzle.
Marc Jacobs said he did have a lot to work with even though this collection looked simple and brilliantly rich. This time he did outdo himself and I am sure he will do the same in the next spring season.
When fashion week is over, the expansion of the huge buzzy and busy creative energy begins contracting or getting smaller in a good way because buyers, advertisers, editors, stylists and clients are all going back to look at every collection that was presented for Fall and come up with visions for stories for the season. Today was the last day to see what there is. What can they take with them?
The collection at Tilbot Runhoff showed a dressy collection that had dressy ensembles, dresses and gowns. Black, white, grey and a tiny bit of red were the colors. The Gowns of graphic designs made an impression. Elie Saab was an elegant collection presented in ivory, black, purple and red. Beautiful suits and dresses were done with simplicity and ease with a touch of polish. The gowns were stunning and some of them looked as if they were dipped in beads. A lovely collection by Saab. However, I think he held back a little. Maybe there was nothing wrong with that in an understated way because he did beautiful work.
At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs offered a wonderful lineup of unique silhouettes of ample cut designs with exaggerated sleeves. They were done in many ways that the collection did not look monotone. A delight seeing the many variations of this vision was on everyone's faces. The french maid dresses were sexy and elegant and sauntered down the runway with demure seduction. There were printed dresses as well as dresses with big buttons in the center front. The suits were so innovative and done in a quite wonderful tactful way with inspiring fabric manipulation and textures. Fabulous skirts and tops that were cinched in the waist with wide belts showed off the body.
Yes, this collection demanded the attention from everyone. And everyone paid attention. By the way, the Louis Vuitton bags and accessories are to die or to live for!
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011
The amazing 1940's inspired collection that Miuccia Prada designed for Miu Miu set the tone with the astonishing designs that radiated a clear crisp sense of confidence and glamour. Pieces with exaggerated square or rounded shoulders reminded me of some suits that Joan Crawford wore in 'Mildred Pierce'. Some of the ensembles looked like suits that Hollywood stars wore in the 40's. Dresses were hugging the body elegantly and gave an air of sophisticated class and style. This collection looked mature and there is something for everybody. No doubt about that. By the way, I loved hearing Kate Bush singing in the background during the show.