Oct 6, 2011

Monique Lhullier Spring/Summer 2012. Feeling Experimental.


There is a streamline and sportiness to Monique Lhullier this spring. Looks that were body conscious, minimal, had a fine sense of youthfulness and some bold colors that was playful. This was not her usual red carpet fanfare that she shows often. There were some trompe l'oeil dresses that had a nice optical illusion touch with either lace or sequins. A splatter print trench showed her spunky spirit. Leather and lace were seen on some garments as inserts, adding a nice modern twist to some simple looks. This was definitely a collection that showed that Lhullier was experimenting and it all worked out just fine.


Monique Lhullier
Spring/Summer 2012

Oct 5, 2011

Some Misses and Some Hits at NYFW S/S 2012

Ruffian's Brian Wolk says "Our spring girl rides by day and cocktails by night. So he and Claude Morais went for a jockey them throughout much of the collection. Lots of black and white until things picked up with some red and fuchsia. High point is that there are some great tailoring for evening.
Antonio Azzulo's A.A. presentation was hit with a high note when Anna Wintour dropped by to see the work of the latest CFDA Incubator winners. There were some tailored looks, Seventies YSL style, jackets and ties with pants. Finally, the result was a well executed collection.
Cynthia Rowley had a collection that was a bit all over the place. Her flirty dresses kept things in balance, yet the stiff bonded pieces, especially the zigzag or botanical print pants were not flattering to the eye. If she just kept her Rowley lighter touch, she would have been right on track with her vision.
L.A.M.B showed and Gwen Estefani was not there. Maxidresses were center stage in oversized ikat print, military inspired jackets and cargo pants. There were also flared mini skirts and drapy knits, which were all fun.
Tracy Reese must have felt really leisurely this time. Lots of her signature girlish frocks and ensembles perfect for the seaside or some relaxed walks in the park. Her bohemian flare was definitely present. Even though there were some nice ensembles here, the collection had some random ideas that could have been edited to present a more cohesive message.


Daryl K has been existing for 20 years. She usually works with her black and white aesthetic, but for spring in a collaboration with Spencer Sweeny, there were some vibrant, abstract prints. The "jumpdress" came out of this collection. It was refreshing and had energy. 


Daryl K
Spring/Summer 2012


Adam Lippes was inspired by the High Line Park, which he can see from his studio window. The collection was charming and focused on bright colors, bold prints and flirty shapes. There was a girly vibe with the help of some floral dresses and ivory linen versions with embroidered lace panels, as well as short skirts and cropped pants rendered in floral -printed denim and delicately sheer coats. This collection was modern and had a bit of savvy.


Adam
Spring/Summer 2012


DKNY should be spelled CHIC. It was effortless chic. Full of long flowy silhouettes, neutral colors (cream, black, navy, tan) and brights (royal blue, red, hot pink), head to toe looks either monochromatic or in print, and some tailored looks. Yes. This is CHIC spelled DKNY. 


DKNY
Spring/Summer 2012






Oct 1, 2011

Prints are Prime at Spring/Summer New York Fashion Week

John Hartig mostly left out color for the Libertine collection for Spring/Summer 2012 and presented clothes with graphic prints in black and white. There were some tongue-in-cheek T-shirts and a skirt with the phrase "Tax the rich more." The clothes were quite appealing and included a playful spirit such as the splattering of x's and o's and circle and stripe prints. Keep it coming, Libertine!


Libertine
Spring/Summer 2012


Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty created a pretty Suno collection that was chic and prefect for the Spring and Summer season for 2012. Cotton lace, polka dots, stripes, florals, and metallics were featured. Looks like Osterweis and Beatty had a fun time designing for this collection. It shows!


Suno
Spring/Summer 2012


They are committed in making beautiful clothes while developing trade with Africa. Ali Hewson and her husband, Bono, believe that style should have substance. For Edun's collection there is a mixture of African prints mixed with florals. There are grommets on pants, laser-cut jumpsuits and sexy dresses. This is definitely a wearable collection that many women would enjoy for Spring/Summer 2012.


Edun
Spring/Summer 2012







Sep 28, 2011

Bauhaus was Carolina Herrera's Calling for Spring/Summer 2012


This is a collection that was extremely potent with elegance and sophistication and a wonderful modernity that Carolina Herrera designed for Spring/Summer 2012. She was inspired by Bauhaus and it's influence in art, fashion, interiors, lifestyle, colors and shapes. The clothes were delivered in lines, blocks and stripes and various geometric renderings. The beautiful bird prints on her dresses and separates were quite charming. The colors are inspired by Bakelite bracelets. Her signature staples are present in this collection which, of course, can not do without. Her evening wear in a splendor that is to die for or to live for. Her vision for evening all constructed and fluid was a treat and I could not have taken my eyes off of it as the elegance of it captured my attention.
Carolina Herrera is truly a master of classic style and constantly keeps designing collections that are modern and fresh.


Carolina Herrera
Spring/Summer 2012

Haiti inspires Donna Karan for Spring/Summer 2012



Donna Karan loves Haiti. She spends a great deal of time there and channels her philanthropic efforts there. For this season she was inspired by Haiti. According to her notes she is constantly inspired by her passions.
Her passions were indeed expressed. The collection had well made clothes that had tribal motifs, some graphic configurations that some had studs outlining them, and some prints. The colors in this collection were muddy and drab in the sense that white, black and mud brown were dominant. There were a citrus green and tangerine dresses for evening that did not do the trick to add some life to the color pallet of the collection. Again, this collection was well made and had the commercial clout, but the colors did not do the trick.


Donna Karan
Spring/Summer 2012



Sep 26, 2011

Thakoon is an Ace at making a Cocktail of a Spring/Summer 2012 Collection.

The Plaza Hotel was where Thakoon Panichgul's Spring/Summer Collection show took place. This was a wonderful presentation that showed a mixture of references and cultures mixed together brilliantly. It was India mixed with Marie Antoinette in colors that were bright, and there were prints and paisleys that were mixed with some lace and embroideries. Thakoon mixed Indian looks with American sportswear ideas and his mission was accomplished. This colliding of different worlds was effortless for Thakoon to make into a brilliant fashion cocktail of looks.


Thakoon
Spring/Summer 2012

Sep 25, 2011

Zac Posen Made a Point with his Spring/Summer 2012 Collection.


After showing a couple of times in Paris, Zac Posen came back home to New York and showed an extremely modern, sophisticated, glamorous collection that one cannot resist. There was no gimmick and there was no forcing in making any kind of statement. In fact the statement that Posen made was effortless.

For this season there is a focus on construction and an experimentation in color and shapes. Embroidery and cording is present throughout and the clever details were on point. One spectacular dress after another came out and they all certainly caught the attention of everyone in the room.

A feast of potential red carpet gowns are imminent. Stylists! Get cracking for the next award season!!
Zac Posen, congratulations and welcome home! You made a great point with your collection and did an amazing job!


Zac Posen
Spring/Summer 2012

These New York Designers Are Not Afraid To Take A Risk for Spring/Summer 2012

Just seeing the collection by Thom Browne, it kept me wondering what will come up after the first garment came out. The show was set up in the Edna Barnes Salomon Room of the New York Public Library, looking much like the Twenties with some nice furniture. A gray haired lady hosted a party that took place in the set up. Models wore a silhouette that was lean and long, broad and wide shouldered, with layerings of jackets, textures and fabrics. A really weird show and interesting at the same time.


Thom Browne
Spring/Summer 2012


Drawing inspiration from the Baja Californian desert and Luis Barraga's poetic use of color such as rust, sand, dusty rose and light blue, Rebecca Minkoff showed a collection that has a lot to offer. Shorts, flyaway handkerchief hems, flowing dresses and skirts with uneven hems, were present. The collection was heavy on abstract prints layered in flowing chiffon pieces. If Minkoff edited her collection a bit, it would have been a more focused one.


Rebecca Minkoff
Spring/Summer 2012


Chritian Siriano is the most successful "Project Runway" winner by far. This collection was focused entirely on cocktail and evening wear. He went from T-shirts worn with ball skirts to big poufs that were kind of silly. He did go a bit more commercial with his collection. He just has to make clothes that are a bit more wearable and move away from some of the way things are made on reality TV.


Christian Siriano
Spring/Summer 2012


Although there is such a variety of talent in New York, these designers are all doing what they do best at daring to create new silhouettes and textures. This is what is keeping New York designers interesting because they are not afraid to take a risk. 

Sep 24, 2011

Inspirations for New York Designers Come From Wonderful Places....

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi chose Virginia Woolf as their muse and inspiration. It certainly did not make anyone afraid of her in this case. Beautiful sorbet colors, great crochet lace dresses with frilly collars layered over slips, cutaway jackets,  pixilated floral prints blown out to resemble a grid on pencil skirts, all were included to make Preen a pretty lady like lineup.


Preen
Spring/Summer 2012


Chris Benz piled on prints together with with color blocks and stripes. Sixties and Seventies come into play with some of the motifs and having jackets in photographic images of flower buds and slouchy pants in an oversized graphic are all a lot to take in and it was Benz's intention and it was fun and made some people become fans. 


Chris Benz
Spring/Summer 2012


A lightness of a collection from Flora Gill and Alexa Adams. At Ohne Titel here were soft shapes and volumes with a wonderful feminine sportswear flair. Knit herringbone and graphic patterns were quite the detail as for the bright colors that were mixed with pale neutrals. Gill and Adams intend to grow their business and are serious about it. Looks were commercial from sexy to easy. Their first shoe collection comes out in spring. Wonderful!


Ohne Titel
Spring/Summer 2012


Chris Peters and Shane Gabier of Creatures of the Wind did an amazing job in presenting a wonderful lineup that never bored the eye of fashion. The pieces are all unique because they had a modern psychedelic view in details and the patchwork of fabrics. Just watch the video and listen to them and you will understand more of their point of view which totally can be seen and heard.


Creatures in the Wind
Spring/Summer 2012

Such amazing creativity is to be had at these presentations. What wonderful results. And all from the inspirations that come from wonderful places for these designers.

Sep 22, 2011

Spring/Summer 2012 begins in New York!

One of the first shows in New York were impressive. Kimberly Ovits set the tone for beautiful fluid and wearable clothing that is perfect for any body type for any woman. The inspiration came after the Japanese earthquake which mixed with the idea of disaster versus relief and man versus nature. Paper thin knits, drapery and assemetry play a part in this collection which was truly wonderful.


Kimberly Ovits
Spring/Summer 2012


There were some wonderful looks at Cushnie et Ochs. The collection was just well executed throughout. I loved seeing the sheaths in wonderful colors like lemon, pink, peach, white and black. There were some some flared skirts that were playful as well as sexy and some of them were pared with blazers over shirts. One thing that was distracting were those clunky, shiny peplums that distracted from the strong looks. For the rest I thought this was one clean and sexy collection with great ideas and great lengths


Cushnie et Ochs
Spring/Summer 2012.


With five seasons in Richard Chai Love is a collection that looks like it was turning more towards streetwear. For Spring he showed both men's and women's together for the first time. A lot of mixing and matching and layering that added a playful energy to the collection.


Richard Chai Love
Spring/Summer 2012


The "active glamour" as the show notes professed seemed to have been channeled. BCBG Max Azaria was a fluid collection that was relaxing and quite a breeze. Max and Lubov Azaria played with color blocking and neons. The dresses were intricate and complicated by splicing, panels, piping and cutouts all done in contrasting colors and tribal patterns. Just having at least one or more of these outfits would be worth having in your closet for Spring/Summer next year...2012.


BCBG Max Azaria
Spring/Summer 2012


Sep 14, 2011

The beginning of Spring/Summer 2012. New York Fashion Week Blogs are coming up!

OK. So I have not been writing about fashion for the past month or so because I was enjoying the summer so much. I took advantage of the sun, the weather and the magnificent out doors. A highlight for me was that I rode my bike from Christopher Street all the way to the George Washington bridge and it was so enjoyable. It was a wonderful ride along the Hudson River Park and the sunset could not have been more beautiful!

So here I am now, back in the mix of the energy of everything fashion and I am constantly diving into the presentations of the collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Fashion's Night Out kicked off on September 8th and it could not have been more alive. The night was full with people running and walking around to their fashion destinations to part take in the fashion festivities. So, for any of you who missed this wonderful event just come around next year. You will have a fun time! Here is the link if you want to see what will be going on next time. http://fashionsnightout.com/

Finally, this year there seems to be so much going on here during New York Fashion Week. And as far as collections, there are 20  or more presentations a day. Some collections were absolutely sublime and there were others that were totally boring or just bad. I am glad to see a lot of new young designers showing. Some of them are really promising. Other designers who did not well as far as creativity and cohesiveness last season, did much better this season. And then, of course there are the designers who have been around for quite some time, who knocked the ball out of the park and I am sure you know which designers I mean.

For this Spring/Summer 2012 season, since there are so many presentations a day (again, twenty or more), I will be writing about the ones that really stood out for the day. Down the line I will write about those new young talents whose collections were really a delight and who I am looking forward to their next collection.

So there you have it. I am now on a roll, ready to do my thing and to give you my thoughts and information of the best of New York. I trust all of you have had a wonderful summer this year and I hope you are still enjoying the warm days we have left over before the fall temperatures really start kicking in.

Stay tuned! Big Hugs.

Karl

Aug 11, 2011

Givenchy Couture Fall 2011. Dreams Do Come True.

Riccardo Tisci has been showing his Givenchy Haute Couture in more intimate installations in the grand corner salon of  Place Vendôme. It is a wonderful way in experiencing couture. This time having the designer being the tour guide of this magnificent collection, discussing the craft that he passionately and obviously respects and loves, was a treat. He explains his couture aesthetic, both provocative and captivating. It was enjoyable listening to him explaining their unique manifestations.


Riccardo Tisci

This Fall everything is made in white and rich in embellishments on silk chiffon or tulle. This line up is beautifully sexy and stunning. Everything must be seen at close up to see the most refined metal work imaginable that rendered one dress as stretches of fringe. Or the hand cut tulle paillettes that covered a dress that was inspired by a graduation project at Central St. Martins is mesmerizing. I appreciated the cat's eye pearls, illuminated by encapsulated crystals, attached with thick cashmere rosettes for his meatiest embroideries, on a cropped sweatshirt.

Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011

He explained the painstaking processes; one of which was an embroidery that was accomplished by artisans that wore white gloves as the tool minute stitches with invisible acrylic thread.
Each garment is a beautiful dream come true. All of them designed by Riccardo Tisci for the house of Givenchy.


Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011
by
Riccardo Tisci

 

Givenchy Couture Installation
Fall 2011



Aug 7, 2011

Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall 2011. Gorgeous!!!

A wonderful exotic world was met in the foyer at the Théâtre National de Chaillot. There was a vast black bordered red carpet underlit to powerful effect which was perfect for the presentation I was about to see. Armani has always designed wonderful clothes no matter what season it is. Ever since he started Privé, Armani consistently presents beautiful couture designs that are truly spectacular and always takes my breath away. What I always enjoy from Armani is that he is never shy to experiment with shapes, textures and construction. I always look forward to his haute couture collections because there is a powerful simplicity that is so elegant and impressing to the eye.


Giorgio Armani

Dedicated to Japan and the survivors of the earthquake and tsunami, this collection is a loud whisper of sophistication. It is pure elegance that is highly exceptional with the influence of Japanese art and style. He opened with a sleek, structured reed-thin silhouette. His day looks were defined with the peaked shoulders that he loves. There were some beautiful black pieces with pretty partial prints snaking down a sleeve, defining a peplum or spliced across one side of a neckline. For evening the word 'gorgeous' popped in my head. It was the climax of his collection. They were slender and had structure and demanded to be noticed. There were flaps incorporated and folds of fabric that never made anything look overdone. A couple of show stoppers were a black velvet gown with crystal fringing and a melon sequined dress embroidered with flowers, which was the finale piece.
There was never a dull moment in the presentation. I was truly captivated by this supreme collection that truly represented what Armani loves to do. To make a woman look and feel beautiful.


Armani Privé
Haute Couture
Fall 2011

Aug 3, 2011

CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2011. Sssnap!!!

The set that was a replica of the Place Vendôme with glass street lamps and the dome scraping monument that had an aluminium replica of the Mademoiselle herself was really breathtaking. It really set the tone for what was coming. And what showed up was a true Chanel collection that was was a mixture of androgyny and femininity. It was amazing!
I love that Mr. Lagerfeld plays with new silhouettes every season. Offering everything from daywear to eveningwear, this collection does not miss a beat. Keeping the integrity of the Chanel look and aesthetic, Lagerfeld always gives it a clever twist of newness and edge that goes with the time we are in, always moving forward.
Most importantly, Lagerfeld gets every single aspect of the hands of couture busy, all of which ultimately create these magnificent, chic clothes.

Karl Lagerfeld for CHANEL

This season the peplum is the focal point of this collection which is done in so many different ways. The suits in black and white tweed are modern, boxy and classic, the skirts were to the knee, and the evening wear had some wow factors that are perfect for the red carpet.  This wonderful collection brought back the attention that haute couture was all about full wardrobe-dressing. Somehow some designers missed the mark in the past but not the house of Chanel.
In the present it is setting the example as Mademoiselle always has done so. Sssssnap!


CHANEL
Haute Couture Fall 2011
Part 1


CHANEL
Haute Couture Fall 2011
Part 2

Jul 21, 2011

Red and Hot! Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall 2011.

Alexandre Vauthier has captivated the attention of Roisin Murphy, Rihanna and Beyonce Knowles. He has an eye for shape and is wonderful in executing sexy, modern designs that draws in the attention to his talent.

Alexandre Vauthier

The entire collection was presented in red and it made a passionate, seductive and edgy statement and certainly kept things hot in the room. I enjoyed his daywear which made an impression and it seemed to be a strong part of the show. The passionate red line up consisted of fitted modern suits with high slit skirts and fitted dresses with fox coats to match. I enjoyed the dresses that were perfect for the Red Carpet like the red beaded dress chiffon siren dress and some sexy drapy silhouettes.
The collection was perfectly finished, compared to last season when there were some unfinished hems and seams. The quality of the clothes were quite impressive and well polished.
The last dress of the show made quite an impression all in a nude color and richly beaded encrusted shoulders. I actually wished he showed some more of that.
For a collection that was inspired by a smear of red lipstick, Alexandre Vauthier continues to be quite appealing.


Alexandre Vauthier
Haute Couture
Fall 2011

Jul 20, 2011

Anne Valérie Hash Fall Couture 2011. A 10th Anniverary


Anne Valérie Hash 

Anne Valérie Hash celebrated her 10th Anniversary with 10 signature looks that were a blend of tailored pieces with the soft blouses made of the lightest silk mousseline. At the Shangri-La Hotel, these pieces were displayed on wooden mannequins in the gilded ballroom, but they really came to life when two models took turns wearing these ensembles that were gently draped and came in powdery shades of chalk, almond green and peach. A black jumpsuit with a neckline resembling a trouser waistband and a sexy ivory silk dress with a plunging back secured with crisscross ties were quite impressive.
This collection is pretty and very clean. Congratulations, Anne Valérie Hash!



Anne Valérie Hash
Fall Couture
2011



Anne Valérie Hash Fall Couture 2011
L'OFFICIEL
.

Jul 16, 2011

Martin Margiela Fall Couture 2011. Inventive.



Martin Margiela showed a collection of a mixture of tailoring and industrial looking fabrics and finishings, all quintessential to the design philosophy of his artistry in fashion. Each outfit expresses the Margiela element of invention. In this case, the popular polypropylene sports socks were assembled into a second-skin sweater in a fresh take on a 1991 Margiela sweater made of army socks, paired with a matching cashmere blanket skirt which is an influence of Joseph Beuys. There was a trenchcoat made of strips of tape that gave a fell of sophistication. There was a transparency theme that continued with jackets and coats that were constructed of this modern horse hair that were layered over the tailoring exposing their intricate skeletons.

Martin Margiela is truly inventive and continues to amaze me with his amazing sense of design.


Martin Margiela Haute Couture
Fall 2011


Martin Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2011
(Filmed by L'OFFICIEL)

Jul 15, 2011

Beauty in the Forest. Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Fall 2011.

 Alexis Mabille

Alex Mabille presented his collection of exotic creatures at the Téâtre du Châlet. Based on Jean de la Fontaine's animal fables, these confections were beautiful, but some just missed the mark. I enjoyed the beautiful Ant made in black silk crepe with slits on the sides baring sexy legs, her rival the Grasshoper in a fitted dress of lamé and brown lace with an irredescent bodice and the Black Wolf in black velvet with Swarofsy crystals down along the arms. The Horse came out with long fringe, bunched, to form a bustier tied in the back to form a tail for the train.
One of the most elegant and simplest was the Magpie that was a black swallow tail bolero coat over a white strapless silke crepe column.
While Mabille held everything together with his imagination there were some curses that could have been edited out. The Swan in mustard yellow leggings under tattered white organza, the taffeta and origami silk Raven and the green Frog ball gown would all have me running out of the forest for my life.


Fall Haute Couture 2011


Alexis Mabille is doing better and he did his best in this collection which demonstrated that this was a display of more of what he is capable of. I still think his designs are charming and that he is getting better at adding an allure of unique charm in his one of a kind collections.
Mercí, Alexis!



Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Fall 2011
Interview



Alexis Mabille
Haute Couture
Fall 2011



Jul 13, 2011

Bouchra Jarrar Fall Couture 2011. Definitely Going Places!

There are Bouchra Jarrar fans out there and a lot of people do not know this. She certainly did not disappoint at all with this Fall Couture presentation! She produced beautiful, well made garments so exquisite that I suggest all of you to follow what she does, because she has a lot to offer to satisfy any woman who is looking for high quality clothes.




All bases were covered from day to evening. The craftsmanship and tailoring played a part to complete the looks that are modern, clean and bold as a result. The beautifully cut little black dress with a skewed slash on the neckline, and wonderful cut outs with her signature piping were present in her dresses and jackets.
Her love for bold graphics were expressed with magnificent stripes of gray and blue that sliced through a gray coat dress, a touch of perfection was on a black tweed dress, and they gave the knits she created a delightful accent.

The designer said that she was playing with the contrast of femininity and masculinity. The beautiful blue color is a memorable color that was truly noticeable. There is no question that her following is growing and that she is gradually becoming a couturier whose clothes will be in the pages of major fashion magazines and that her signature looks will be on the bodies of fashionable high profile women.
She is definitely going to places she never dreamed of!



Bouchra Jarrar
Haute Couture Fall 2011
and Interview

Jul 9, 2011

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011. A Splendid Debut.

Giambattista Valli

The Chambre Syndicale's newest guest member made his couture debut and it was very delightful to see a pretty presentation at the 19th-century Galerie de la Madeleine passageway. Giambattista Valli already has a loyal clientele, some of which already have ordered his designs. His designs were sculptured, soft, fluid and played with volume that all satisfied the eyes with some pops of color and wild animal prints. There was beautiful cape that was layered with an embroidery of pretty Lilly of the Valley flowers dripping down the garment, a beautiful tweed suit that was covered with jet beads and ostrich feathers. Impressing stunners included a coral bustier dress with a matching cape and a white flowing dress with beautifully layered shoulders.
This is a great beginning for this couture first timer. The only thing is that it would be great to see a few daytime pieces. Other than that, I am pleased with this presentation.
What a splendid debut!



Giambattista Valli Haute Couture
Fall 2011
Part 1


Giambattista Valli Haute Couture
Fall 2011
Part 2



Jul 7, 2011

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011. A New Era.

The house of Christian Dior has a wonderful history rich of fashion, design and luxury. This house is an amazing laboratory that practices the utmost exquisite craft which is haute couture. Monsieur Dior himself would be proud to this day of his house because it has lasted this long especially in this day and age.
Today, since the dismissal of John Galliano, there is no couturier. While the world is waiting for the announcement of the new creative director for the house, Bill Gaytten had very big shoes to fill and had the challenging task of delivering a top notch couture collection. He did his best.


The presentation took place at Musée Rodin and was presented in a smaller scale. The absence of Galliano was felt and there was a curiosity in the air to see what the vision would be for the Fall/Winter 2011 season.
I have to say that the collection is a disappointment. It did not look cohesive. There was a lot of mish mash of textures, shapes, and silhouettes. Definitely the presence of femininity was there including some of the Dior signatures like the rose which was mixed with some of the layering of textures in some of the garments.
Inspirations were Italian designer Ettore Sottsass, Jean Paul Goude, the architecture of Frank Ghery, the Fifties and the Seventies, and Marc Bohan who was a designer for Dior.


Christian Dior Fall Haute Couture
Backstage and Preview

Ball gowns were inspired by roses. Flowing Caftans was the Marc Bohan influence. Some pieces resembled the textures of  the buildings that Frank Ghery had created around the world. This collection was quite confusing. The last dress, a textured ball gown inspired by Pierrot, that was worn by Karly Kloss was a bit gimmicky.
At best, this is a couture collection that is made by less known hands which is quite risky and intriguing. It is an indication that the house is continuing to present its couture to keep not only the tradition going but to offer some luxe, one of a kind merchandise to its clients and to the world.
At the end of the presentation Bill Gaytten and first assistant Susanna Venegas gave their bows as the moment approaches to announce the new creative director for the house of Christian Dior.

Bill Gaytten and Susanna Venegas

A New Era begins.


Christian Dior Haute Couture
Fall/Winter 2011


Jun 28, 2011

Christian Dior Spring Couture 2011. Galliano's Last Collection.

For now I will not get into how Galliano started his career in fashion and where he is now after his day in court on June 22nd, 2011. I will most likely write something about that in the future. For now, just for this blog, I would only want to focus on this amazing collection he designed before his world turned upside down.

John Galliano began his haute couture career at Givenchy and then he was called to design for the house of Dior. I gather that Bernard Arnault saw the extraordinary talent that Galliano had that would be a fit for Christian Dior. I am sure that Monsieur Dior himself would approve the talented Galliano to design couture for the house.

Even though it has been a few months since the Christian Dior Spring Couture show, I have the itch to write about it because I think that this collection, the last one designed by John Galliano, was the most beautiful collection that he created for the house of Dior. It is as if he somehow knew, deep down inside, that he was going to step away and needed to design something outstanding to leave a stamp in the pages of fashion history. I believe he achieved this. I also believe that René Gruau would give a standing ovation.

Illustration by
René Gruau

A tribute to René Gruau was projected through these amazing unique pieces that were displayed so elegantly. Every single resource was used to create these exquisite clothes that were each in their own way breath taking. The accessories added perfect touches. Galliano did a great job in evoking Gruau's brush strokes, colors and even drawing techniques like the shading in his designs.

Photo by
Eric Martin

Out of this favorite Dior collection of mine I have some favorites. But I want you to have a look and see what your favorites are! Take a look. You will be amazed and mesmerized.

Christian Dior Haute Couture
Spring 2011
Part 1


Christian Dior Haute Couture
Spring 2011
Part 2

Jun 15, 2011

Chanel Spring Couture 2011. A touch of Karl Lagerfeld.

Karl Lagerfeld is the ultimate freelancing designer. For Chanel it seems as though he has been the channel of Coco and makes the brand look modern, classic, and edgy, if that makes sense. With Lagerfeld in the creative helm since 1983, the House of Chanel has been quite a presence in the fashion world today as it has been in the past. Today Chanel still continues to be a name that will forever be a classic.

Karl Lagerfeld

Lagerfeld's inspiration for Chanel's Spring 2011 Couture Collection is artist Marie Laurencin. In 1923 she designed Les Biches, a ballet commissioned by Diaghlev with a scenario by Cocteau. The lightness and transparent like clothes were whispers of inspiration that were washed in beautiful light pastels and dipped in crystals, beads and sequins. The classic tweed suits were made with a twist, with an updated silhouette that is perfect for today's fashion. The dominant element in the collection were the skinny pants done in all fabrics and textures. When the show was over the curtains and mirror were raised and the entire collection was displayed on the mock up of the mirrored stairs of the house of Chanel where Coco would discreetly sit and watch her collection presentation.

CHANEL Couture
Spring 2011

The passion that Karl Lagerfeld has for Chanel is always greatly expressed
and the result is just delightful.
All resources that can be thought of is always used
to create these beautiful couture collections.
I love that the legend of Chanel goes on and on and on.
Thanks to Karl Lagerfeld!


CHANEL
Couture
Spring 2011

Jun 10, 2011

The Brilliance of Armani Privé Spring 2011 Haute Couture

Giorgio Armani is a fashion force full good taste and quality. People reach out and want to experience it.
From window dressing, becoming a buyer for a men's department, designing for Nino Ceruti and freelancing, Armani is a designer with a vast amount of design and marketing experience under his belt.
Ever since 2005 his Armani Privé presentations have been a showcase of craftsmanship mastered by the wonderful hands of his atelier. And I enjoy watching this feast of luxurious Armani quality every season!


Giorgio Armani


The Spring 2011 Couture Collection was an unexpected stimulation of fashion brilliance. When I first saw this collection, I about fell out of my chair. The amazing innovative glamorous and modern collection zapped me. Mesmerizing me and keeping my attention each time a model came out and walked down the runway. I looked forward to this entire collection.


Pre-Show Armani Privé
Haute Couture
Spring 2011


The wonderful cuts of the jackets, the slim legging like pants under wonderful sculpted dresses, fantastic evening gowns, molded in wonderful architectural silhouettes, are all must haves. Almost every outfit was punctuated with a shiny disc hat, a perfect touch. Fabrics were all shiny and the accessories were to live for.
The last three bedazzling dresses that were bejeweled, dripped and encrusted in the most sparkling gems and rhinestones, all gave a wonderful fashion orgasm at the end of the show.

I have no complaints about this collection, whatsoever.



Armani Privé
HAUTE COUTURE
Spring 2011

Jun 7, 2011

Jean Paul Gaultier and his enfant terrible Spring Couture 2011 Collection

In the 80's I remember that Gaultier was called the enfant terrible. And rightfully so. Gaultier's designs back then were inspired by pop culture and the street. They were infused with his ingenious touches that were delightful to the eye. Back then I loved his collections and every season I always looked forward to his presentations. The anticipation for his collections is still there and I am never disappointed.

 Gaultier never had any formal training in design. He has worked for Pierre Cardin as an assistant. Eventually he went to Jean Patou and there he suggested to give each assistant a chance to design a collection for a season. The house said that it would be a bit expensive. Well, years later he opened Gaultier Paris, his own couture line.

Jean Paul Gaultier

The Spring Haute Couture 2011 collection that Gaultier offered is a wonderful parade of sophisticated looking women with mohawks pinned in their hair projecting strength, independence and sophistication for the modern world today. This collection is very Parisian. The suits that went down the runway made it quite clear that there are many to choose from and I think that some clients had a hard time choosing. His signature details were not left out. You can see them on showstoppers such as the white and navy striped organza evening dress, a white pant suit with the hour glass jacket, and trench coat influences were seen on some jackets and remarkable dresses. A black beaded halter jumpsuit that looked transparent, had no trouble sparkiling and was seductively breath taking.
All I can say is that this collection designed by an enfant terrible was not terrible at all!



Jean Paul Gaultier
PRINTEMPS/ETE
COUTURE
2011

.