Perfect!
Meticulous, manicured hedges by Belgian landscape artist Martin Wirtz was the stage for the anticipated Christian Dior couture presentation. It is definitely a pretty turn from the elaborate and beautifully dense setting of flowers from fall. Raf Simons said this is the very idea of spring. And so it was when the confections made their presence. The models were all done up and styled with small feathered caps of hair and wore sparkling red lips dressed in these originals.
The theme is similar to the allure to his fall couture and this time for spring it is even better.
The presentation started with a bustier dress with a black bodice, simply draped, with a delicious skirt in a Fifties cut and length.
Simons continues to reinvent the nipped in the waist tuxedos, and the bustiers worn over cigarette pants that models' hands were tucked into. There was a reference of Dior's iconic "Bar" jacket in flare at the hem of scoop-neck satin tops and in the ethereal, trumpet-shaped bridal gowns that came at the climax of the show.
Simons continued using the great ideas from his debut. Instead of embroideries on the front and back of his dresses, they were planted in an asymmetric fashion on fitted gowns and on a short sleeved dress in a sea foam color.
Simons gave some looks a modern and futuristic feel by using colors that were bold and unique like using neon yellow embroideries on a black bustier or tinting the edges of floral shapes with a shade of red on a cream column of Guipere lace.
Simons said he is taking things slow in the makeover of Dior. He didn't want to do a heavy concept, hence the idea of the garden, flowers, spring and the evolution of that.
The snow made Paris beautiful yet the streets were slushy. After viewing this impeccable collection spring is not such a bad idea after all! Wearing any of these Christian Dior creations will make spring even more fabulous!
Bill Gaytten last collection for Dior was a great group of clothes full of Dior references. There were some soft versions of the New Look and some that had beautiful tailoring. Focus was on the cinched in waist and often belted full skirted silhouette.
Big stoned embroideries and graphic fabric plays and his boldest of moves, the midcalf skirt length were some of the big statements. Daytime was full of neat tailoring with modified Bars, a beautiful tricolored coat in horizontal blocks of blue, grey and rose. For evening, the line of small waist and full skirts followed and evolved into gowns and flowing skirts.
Altogether the show went on a bit too long with 56 looks, which was a bit surprising since Gaytten spent so many years in the Galliano-esque low thirties range. At the time word was that Dior's retail numbers were picking up. Gaytten could have been under the pressure to create a collection since it seemed that he was still in the audition stages. His tenure as the interim designer for the house has been the longest. Two years. I am sure it isn't easy. The questions remained. What is the house to do? What do Bernard Arnault and Sidney Toledano ultimately want for their designer? If they want show stopping, awe inspiring, breathless directorial fashion, Gaytten has not indicated that. There seemed to be an anchor to the brand while attracting paying clientelle, and great looks for the red carpet, with a descent couture showing in January for Spring 2012 couture and this fall show, all designed by Gaytten. He could have had a shot but that all changed in the months to come....
The fall couture showing of Alexis Mabille followed after Raf Simon's much anticipated debut at ChristianDior. That is a tough act to follow. At Dior the collection was a much stripped down modernity. At Alexis Mabille an opulent and glamorous line up was unveiled at the Shangri-La Hotel. The gowns were inspired by precious jewels and were made of silky velvets, metallic lace, stretch sequins fabric and lames in beautiful rich shades of emerald, garnet, tanzanite - and some were sprinkled with fabulous Swarofsky crystals for the extra bling.
The lamédresses looked like sheets of iridescent foil sculpted onto the body giving a very shiny a sense of young kitsch. The Hollywood-like silhouettes would have been fitting for classic stars like Bette Davis, Marlene Dietrich, or Carole Lombard.
Beautiful red and black crepe gowns featured beautiful cowl backs, a beaded silver gown had a fragile touch of a midnight blue sheath over it and the nude color finale gown gave a beautiful whisper of subtle sex appeal with a touch of sparkle under a layer of tulle.
I like that Mabille takes risks in silhouettes, fabric choice, and details. The outcome is always charming. Just like him!
Christian Dior is one of the most luxurious and beautiful brands in the world.Monsieur Dior himself always created clothes that were highly exquisite and unique. They had the most elegant touches in construction, detail and silhouette. Not only did they make a woman look beautiful but they made her feel beautiful as well. Today the house of Christian Dior continues to create the most beautiful clothes designed by the very talented and made by the best hands.
2012 marks a new era for the house of Dior with the most anticipated debut since Galliano's own debut in 1997. The beginning of the Raf Simons era took place in a grand residence in a series of rooms, the walls of each covered densely packed, floor to ceiling with flowers. One room had white orchids, deep purple delphiniums and multi blooms in another. And in these rooms sat editors, executives and clients. The house ambassadors Sharon Stone and Marion Cotillard were present, as well as a variety of supportive competitive designers - Azzedine Alaïa, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, Diane Von Furstenberg, Donatella Versace, as well as Pierre Cardin, Jean-Louis Scherrer, and Alber Elbaz. "We designers don't hate each other like they used to." says Marc Jacobs. Riccardo Tisci said the collection is "very Raf" and "the future of fashion."
The collection opened with a tuxedo that is an elegant updated Bar suit in black. "Cut off ballgown" ensembles came out with slim cigarette pants that were richly embroidered and elegant. There were some soft party dresses in the mix with a mixture of true couture craft. There was a dress of wide bands of pale pink and blue feathers that was quite exquisite.
Major focus was put on construction and subtle detail that at the same time offered a range from elegant sophistication to the younger end without compromising the Dior aesthetic. Simons worked on various fabric weights from astrakhan and mink to chiffon and mesh.
In the midst of all his blacks and greys he expressed his love for color in the form of a "Dior Red" coat and a shocking citron dress of sheer T-shirt and skirt.
In this entire collection Simons showed the respect for the house founder through his research of the fabulous archival wonders as the Bar, the florals, the range of grey tweeds while staying in the 21st century.
The house of Dior is already on the way with the New Looks and will do extremely well with old and new clients. LVMH Moët Hennesy Louis Vuitton chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault gave Simons a straightforward brief. "I simply told him: 'It's Dior, so give us your version, your vision of what Dior is today. You have the result. I think it's fantastic, " he said. After the show, Arnault said his yearlong designer search was worth the wait. "I didn't want to rush," he said. It was really a question of choosing the best person for the job, and he stood head and shoulders above the rest: the greatest talent of the moment for Dior, the greatest house in the world."
I am sure that Monsieur Dior himself would agree and would also be pretty pleased. After his first collection for Dior, Raf Simons will definitely continue to evolve in his craft as an amazing haute couture designer. Congratulations!
As the house of Dior is going through its transition it seemed to make more sense in making clothes that are more commercial. This is what Bill Gaytten came up with for his second time designing for the house. No matter what the house is going through there is a loyal clientele that wants to buy a Dior outfit.
An LED light show surrounded the interior of the tent at the Musée Rodin tracing the signature moldings, that signaled the modernization of the house codes. Gaytten designed versions of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined basque. They are worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy gazar. There were pretty feminine pale colors, like ice blue and nude pink. Some punches of red were just right in the mixture of the graphic black and white check motif and geometric embroideries on skirts and dresses. Filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace flowed for evening.
This was not the spectacular fashion statement that the house showed in the past. Maybe because there was an absence of the flair of Gaytten's predecessor but there was the modification that maintains Dior's class and luxury that remains present in the world today. The clothes overall are exquisite in construction and quality. What more can you expect from the House of Dior, no matter who the creative director is?
The house of Christian Dior was pretty alive and buzzing with the curiosity of what will be shown for Spring 2012. On Avenue Montaigne on the third floor of the studio, surrounded by the beautiful creamy gray is where the presentation took place. The clothes were definitely much more cleaner, elegant and luxe and had a sense of a saleable quality that will fair well for old and new clients of Dior. At the same time this is the other extreme from the touch of Galliano who created clothes that stimulated any one's imagination as well as the appetite of couture in a grand way which always captivated the world. It has been a year that Galliano was let go of Dior by LVMH.
Bill Gaytten who was Galliano's right hand man from day one and who is the studio director for the house, has done well with this collection compared to last fall when he created looks that looked like a whole bunch of art students cut and pasted pieces of fabric and remnants together. This season details and silhouettes were created that Monsieur Dior himself imagined and were incorporated with some modern flair made in colors such as black, grey, white, beige, lavender, violet and red.
According to Gaytten this collection was the X-ray collection which had some transparency to show the technique and work that goes into the confections. Even though Galliano created a collection similar to this in 2005, this take of Gayttens was pretty as well. However, the collection was a feast of designs that are really beautiful and wearable, maybe with some requests to put a silk slip underneath some of them.
Even though Gaytten is designing the collections for Dior, there is no word yet as to who the designer or creative director will be or if they are still looking.
Overall, this Dior Collection got a great hand of applause and I applause Bill Gaytten for his efforts. Well done!
The house of Christian Dior has a wonderful history rich of fashion, design and luxury. This house is an amazing laboratory that practices the utmost exquisite craft which is haute couture. Monsieur Dior himself would be proud to this day of his house because it has lasted this long especially in this day and age.
Today, since the dismissal of John Galliano, there is no couturier. While the world is waiting for the announcement of the new creative director for the house, Bill Gaytten had very big shoes to fill and had the challenging task of delivering a top notch couture collection. He did his best.
The presentation took place at Musée Rodin and was presented in a smaller scale. The absence of Galliano was felt and there was a curiosity in the air to see what the vision would be for the Fall/Winter 2011 season.
I have to say that the collection is a disappointment. It did not look cohesive. There was a lot of mish mash of textures, shapes, and silhouettes. Definitely the presence of femininity was there including some of the Dior signatures like the rose which was mixed with some of the layering of textures in some of the garments.
Inspirations were Italian designer Ettore Sottsass, Jean Paul Goude, the architecture of Frank Ghery, the Fifties and the Seventies, and Marc Bohan who was a designer for Dior.
Christian Dior Fall Haute Couture
Backstage and Preview
Ball gowns were inspired by roses. Flowing Caftans was the Marc Bohan influence. Some pieces resembled the textures of the buildings that Frank Ghery had created around the world. This collection was quite confusing. The last dress, a textured ball gown inspired by Pierrot, that was worn by Karly Kloss was a bit gimmicky.
At best, this is a couture collection that is made by less known hands which is quite risky and intriguing. It is an indication that the house is continuing to present its couture to keep not only the tradition going but to offer some luxe, one of a kind merchandise to its clients and to the world.
At the end of the presentation Bill Gaytten and first assistant Susanna Venegas gave their bows as the moment approaches to announce the new creative director for the house of Christian Dior.
For now I will not get into how Galliano started his career in fashion and where he is now after his day in court on June 22nd, 2011. I will most likely write something about that in the future. For now, just for this blog, I would only want to focus on this amazing collection he designed before his world turned upside down.
John Galliano began his haute couture career at Givenchy and then he was called to design for the house of Dior. I gather that Bernard Arnault saw the extraordinary talent that Galliano had that would be a fit for Christian Dior. I am sure that Monsieur Dior himself would approve the talented Galliano to design couture for the house.
Even though it has been a few months since the Christian Dior Spring Couture show, I have the itch to write about it because I think that this collection, the last one designed by John Galliano, was the most beautiful collection that he created for the house of Dior. It is as if he somehow knew, deep down inside, that he was going to step away and needed to design something outstanding to leave a stamp in the pages of fashion history. I believe he achieved this. I also believe that René Gruau would give a standing ovation.
Illustration by
René Gruau
A tribute to René Gruau was projected through these amazing unique pieces that were displayed so elegantly. Every single resource was used to create these exquisite clothes that were each in their own way breath taking. The accessories added perfect touches. Galliano did a great job in evoking Gruau's brush strokes, colors and even drawing techniques like the shading in his designs.
Photo by Eric Martin
Out of this favorite Dior collection of mine I have some favorites. But I want you to have a look and see what your favorites are! Take a look. You will be amazed and mesmerized.
More legal problems continue to pile up for Galliano. John Galliano who is to stand on trial in Paris on a charge of public insult has a legal action taken against him by his former lawyer Stéphane Zerbib. Zerbib was recently dismissed following the alleged discovery of irregularities in respect to his firm's administration of Galliano's financial affairs over a number of years.
It is confirmed by Zerbib that he and his lawyer, Emma Lapijower, will file a charge of defamation against Galliano, among other complaints.
Galliano has a lot on his plate. There is a lot to be taken care of. And the unknown is truly where Galliano is right now. Surrendering to all of this is the only way to go. It looks like everything is out of control. Yet all that is unsettled, will settle. Just like the stirred up sand in the turbulent waters of the ocean that once the water is still the sand will settle quietly and there is clarity once more.
The beat goes on.
John Galliano's trial date is approaching. On May 12th Galliano is expected in the High Court to stand trial on a charge of public insult.
Galliano has new legal representation. Aurélien Hamelle at Metzner Associés in Paris has been appointed to represent the designer according to his London based publicist Jo Milloy. Stéphane Zerbib was recently dismissed as Galliano's lawyer following the discovery of apparent irregularities in respect to his firm's administration of Galliano's financial affairs over the years. Zerbib is unreachable for any comment.
During the whirlpool of disintegration, Galliano was dismissed from Dior and even from his namesake house and being charged for hurling insults to three people. An intense video spread like fire in cyberspace showing Galliano slurring "I love Hitler". When I saw this video, I thought how intoxicated he was with alcohol. All I saw was someone who was absolutely drunk and had absolutely no idea what he was saying or doing. It may be possible that he if he went home and woke up the next day, he would not even remember what he said or did that night.
The penalty in France for insult against people due to their origin, belonging or not belonging to religion, race or ethnicity is six month imprisonment and a fine of 22,500 euros, or $31,217 at current exchange, according to the French prosecutor.
The designer is currently receiving extended "after care" when he completed an intensive on month treatment at a rehabilitation center in Arizona.
Galliano apologized in March saying: "I must take responsibility for the circumstances in which I find myself and for allowing myself to be seen to be behaving in the worst possible light. I only have myself to blame and I know that I must face up to my own failures and I must work hard to gain people's understanding and compassion."
As the court date approaches I am sure the press is gearing up to be right there before, during and after the trial. Who knows what the outcome will be. What ever it will be it is going be a new start to a new beginning for Galliano's life. For me this is a demonstration that we are all human. We make mistakes. We have a choice in that moment to either punish ourselves or berate ourselves for making them or we can take a breath and look at the mistake and notice what to do the next time and to tell ourselves that everything is fine and that evreything is going to be OK. I know I would choose to do the thing that would make me feel better and loved. Which choice do you think would make you feel better?
We saw, heard and read that Christian Dior SA terminated Galliano from his post as Dior's creative director. Then, last week at a board meeting of the John Galliano company, his employment was officially terminated. Christian Dior SA owns 91 percent of the Galliano house and there has been some interest in buying the business. And now on May 12, Galliano is going to stand trial on a charge of public insult at the High Court in Paris. The question that everyone is asking lately is, can Galliano come back and claim his place in the fashion world? It is a very good question because it is an unpredictable one.
I think the fashion world wants him back on a certain level. A yearning for his creative genious is still present. Business wise I am not sure if retailers would carry his clothes and want to be linked with someone who invoked Hitler. Some pulled his clothes off the racks and others are waiting to see what happes to Galliano.
But from my observation, the people in the fashion industry have short term memories. For exmple, Naomi Campbell was convicted of assault and did time doing community service only to come out of a garage runway style wearing a Dolce and Gabbana dress and ending up in W magazine. And then there is Kate Moss for doing coke and from that resulting in her loosing ad campaigns only to start her own line and modeling for Fendi and Topshop and most recently ending up on the cover of British Harper's Bazzar looking amazing. All I can say about this is, let's see what happens with Galliano.
John Galliano
When someone hits rock bottom the only way is up. And if one realizes and admits, in that moment, that they are powerless, then the process of healing begins and a re-alignment to a wonderful universal power that has always excisted within is being re-established. When this happens there is something magnificent that takes over that completely brings a clarity and persists in the healing in the individual, and when it is in the hands of this great universal power, everything shifts and is restored and recovered into it's true nature and authenticity.
Who knows what Galliano felt when he lost everything. Maybe a mixture of regret, remorse, loss, sorrow, depression and so on. I would not even want to feel what he must have felt, because I have been there and I am sure some of you have been there one way or another. And believe me, it is certainly no picnic.
As Galliano continues to heal and makes his ammends to those he has harmed and continue to practice the principles of recovery then maybe there is a place reserved for him to be part of the fashion world again.
According to WWD there is a list called
"Steps to John Galliano's Potential Redemption".
The folowing steps on this list are: Clinic Stay. Apology. Charitable contribution to Jewish cause or organizations. Brilliant work to display his talent and contribution to the fashion industry. Time.
The show was feeling pretty sedate . I still feel saddened and dissapointed as most people in the industry feel.
It is going to take some time to get used to the change that took place as well as the absence of a fantastic talent.
Bernard Arnault was absent. Dior's president Sidney Toledano took the stage with humility and gave a message that the house's recently terminated designer is now p.n.g. chez Dior. Galliano's name was not mentioned. Toledano then gave the history of the founding of Dior and a fact that Dior's sister had been deported to Buchenwald. “What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all,” he said. “It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be.”
Toledano then closed celebrating “the extraordinary, creative and marvelous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people.” He was referring to the seamstresses and the craftsmen of the Dior studio who took a bow at the end of the show. According to sources, Galliano's own team did not appear on the runway to show solidarity for him.
The hair by Orlando Pita and the make up by Pat McGrath were not as dramatic because it was obvious that someone said not attempt to do the theatrical and fantastical kind of hair and make up.
The direction and tone of the collection was given by Galliano given that he was still officially in house until his dismissal on March 1st.
The collection was pretty much sportswear marking the departure of the bar jackets and fantastical lady like designs that Galliano was so brilliant at creating.
The clothes were quite feminine and pretty. A dandyish attitude as someone said. Some voluminous capes, great blouses to go with pants or skirts, some pretty jackets with texture and wonderful combination of fabrics and colors that offers a diverse range of pieces for a range of wonderful women. It was a pretty well put together collection. Take a look.
