Fall 2012 is Bill Gaytten's Last Collection for the House of Christian Dior.

Bill Gaytten last collection for Dior was a great group of clothes full of Dior references. There were some soft versions of the New Look and some that had beautiful tailoring. Focus was on the cinched in waist and often belted full skirted silhouette.

Big stoned embroideries and graphic fabric plays and his boldest of moves, the midcalf skirt length were some of the big statements. Daytime was full of neat tailoring with modified Bars, a beautiful tricolored coat in horizontal blocks of blue, grey and rose. For evening, the line of small waist and full skirts followed and evolved into gowns and flowing skirts.

Altogether the show went on a bit too long with 56 looks, which was a bit surprising since Gaytten spent so many years in the Galliano-esque low thirties range. At the time word was that Dior's retail numbers were picking up. Gaytten could have been under the pressure to create a collection since it seemed that he was still in the audition stages. His tenure as the interim designer for the house has been the longest. Two years. I am sure it isn't easy. The questions remained. What is the house to do? What do Bernard Arnault and Sidney Toledano ultimately want for their designer? If they want show stopping, awe inspiring, breathless directorial fashion, Gaytten has not indicated that. There seemed to be an anchor to the brand while attracting paying clientelle, and great looks for the red carpet, with a descent couture showing in January for Spring 2012 couture and this fall show, all designed by Gaytten. He could have had a shot but that all changed in the months to come....

Christian Dior

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Glamorous Sculptures at Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012/2013.



The fall couture showing of Alexis Mabille followed after Raf Simon's much anticipated debut at Christian Dior. That is a tough act to follow. At Dior the collection was a much stripped down modernity. At Alexis Mabille an opulent and glamorous line up was unveiled at the Shangri-La Hotel. The gowns were inspired by precious jewels and were made of silky velvets, metallic lace, stretch sequins fabric and lames in beautiful rich shades of emerald, garnet, tanzanite - and some were sprinkled with fabulous Swarofsky crystals for the extra bling.



The lamé dresses looked like sheets of iridescent foil sculpted onto the body giving a very shiny a sense of young kitsch. The Hollywood-like silhouettes would have been fitting for classic stars like Bette Davis, Marlene Dietrich, or Carole Lombard.

Beautiful red and black crepe gowns featured beautiful cowl backs, a beaded silver gown had a fragile touch of a midnight blue sheath over it and the nude color finale gown gave a beautiful whisper of subtle sex appeal with a touch of sparkle under a layer of tulle.

I like that Mabille takes risks in silhouettes, fabric choice, and details. The outcome is always charming. Just like him!

Alexis Mabille

Haute Couture

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Christian Dior Spring 2012 is Pretty


As the house of Dior is going through its transition it seemed to make more sense in making clothes that are more commercial. This is what Bill Gaytten came up with for his second time designing for the house. No matter what the house is going through there is a loyal clientele that wants to buy a Dior outfit.


An LED light show surrounded the interior of the tent at the Musée Rodin tracing the signature moldings, that signaled the modernization of the house codes. Gaytten designed versions of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined basque. They are worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy gazar. There were pretty feminine pale colors, like ice blue and nude pink. Some punches of red were just right in the mixture of the graphic black and white check motif and geometric embroideries on skirts and dresses. Filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace flowed for evening.

This was not the spectacular fashion statement that the house showed in the past. Maybe because there was an absence of the flair of Gaytten's predecessor but there was the modification that maintains Dior's class and luxury that remains present in the world today. The clothes overall are exquisite in construction and quality. What more can you expect from the House of Dior, no matter who the creative director is?