Fall 2012 is Bill Gaytten's Last Collection for the House of Christian Dior.

Bill Gaytten last collection for Dior was a great group of clothes full of Dior references. There were some soft versions of the New Look and some that had beautiful tailoring. Focus was on the cinched in waist and often belted full skirted silhouette.

Big stoned embroideries and graphic fabric plays and his boldest of moves, the midcalf skirt length were some of the big statements. Daytime was full of neat tailoring with modified Bars, a beautiful tricolored coat in horizontal blocks of blue, grey and rose. For evening, the line of small waist and full skirts followed and evolved into gowns and flowing skirts.

Altogether the show went on a bit too long with 56 looks, which was a bit surprising since Gaytten spent so many years in the Galliano-esque low thirties range. At the time word was that Dior's retail numbers were picking up. Gaytten could have been under the pressure to create a collection since it seemed that he was still in the audition stages. His tenure as the interim designer for the house has been the longest. Two years. I am sure it isn't easy. The questions remained. What is the house to do? What do Bernard Arnault and Sidney Toledano ultimately want for their designer? If they want show stopping, awe inspiring, breathless directorial fashion, Gaytten has not indicated that. There seemed to be an anchor to the brand while attracting paying clientelle, and great looks for the red carpet, with a descent couture showing in January for Spring 2012 couture and this fall show, all designed by Gaytten. He could have had a shot but that all changed in the months to come....

Christian Dior

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Chritian Dior Fall/Winter 2011/2012 sans Galliano

The show was feeling pretty sedate . I still feel saddened and dissapointed as most people in the industry feel.
It is going to take some time to get used to the change that took place as well as the absence of a fantastic talent.
Bernard Arnault was absent. Dior's president Sidney Toledano took the stage with humility and gave a message that the house's recently terminated designer is now p.n.g. chez Dior. Galliano's name was not mentioned. Toledano then gave the history of the founding of Dior and a fact that Dior's sister had been deported to Buchenwald. “What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all,” he said. “It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be.”
Toledano then closed celebrating “the extraordinary, creative and marvelous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people.” He was referring to the seamstresses and the craftsmen of the Dior studio who took a bow at the end of the show. According to sources, Galliano's own team did not appear on the runway to show solidarity for him.

The hair by Orlando Pita and the make up by Pat McGrath were not as dramatic because it was obvious that someone said not attempt to do the theatrical and fantastical kind of hair and make up.
The direction and tone of the collection was given by Galliano given that he was still officially in house until his dismissal on March 1st.
The collection was pretty much sportswear marking the departure of the bar jackets and fantastical lady like designs that Galliano was so brilliant at creating.
The clothes were quite feminine and pretty. A dandyish attitude as someone said.  Some voluminous capes, great blouses to go with pants or skirts, some pretty jackets with texture and wonderful combination of fabrics and colors that offers a diverse range of pieces for a range of wonderful women. It was a pretty well put together collection. Take a look.

Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011

Preview