Spring/Summer 2012 begins in New York!

One of the first shows in New York were impressive. Kimberly Ovits set the tone for beautiful fluid and wearable clothing that is perfect for any body type for any woman. The inspiration came after the Japanese earthquake which mixed with the idea of disaster versus relief and man versus nature. Paper thin knits, drapery and assemetry play a part in this collection which was truly wonderful.

Kimberly Ovits

Spring/Summer 2012



There were some wonderful looks at Cushnie et Ochs. The collection was just well executed throughout. I loved seeing the sheaths in wonderful colors like lemon, pink, peach, white and black. There were some some flared skirts that were playful as well as sexy and some of them were pared with blazers over shirts. One thing that was distracting were those clunky, shiny peplums that distracted from the strong looks. For the rest I thought this was one clean and sexy collection with great ideas and great lengths

Cushnie et Ochs

Spring/Summer 2012.

With five seasons in Richard Chai Love is a collection that looks like it was turning more towards streetwear. For Spring he showed both men's and women's together for the first time. A lot of mixing and matching and layering that added a playful energy to the collection.

Richard Chai Love

Spring/Summer 2012

The "active glamour" as the show notes professed seemed to have been channeled. BCBG Max Azaria was a fluid collection that was relaxing and quite a breeze. Max and Lubov Azaria played with color blocking and neons. The dresses were intricate and complicated by splicing, panels, piping and cutouts all done in contrasting colors and tribal patterns. Just having at least one or more of these outfits would be worth having in your closet for Spring/Summer next year...2012.

BCBG Max Azaria

Spring/Summer 2012



The beginning of Spring/Summer 2012. New York Fashion Week Blogs are coming up!

OK. So I have not been writing about fashion for the past month or so because I was enjoying the summer so much. I took advantage of the sun, the weather and the magnificent out doors. A highlight for me was that I rode my bike from Christopher Street all the way to the George Washington bridge and it was so enjoyable. It was a wonderful ride along the Hudson River Park and the sunset could not have been more beautiful!

So here I am now, back in the mix of the energy of everything fashion and I am constantly diving into the presentations of the collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Fashion's Night Out kicked off on September 8th and it could not have been more alive. The night was full with people running and walking around to their fashion destinations to part take in the fashion festivities. So, for any of you who missed this wonderful event just come around next year. You will have a fun time! Here is the link if you want to see what will be going on next time. http://fashionsnightout.com/

Finally, this year there seems to be so much going on here during New York Fashion Week. And as far as collections, there are 20  or more presentations a day. Some collections were absolutely sublime and there were others that were totally boring or just bad. I am glad to see a lot of new young designers showing. Some of them are really promising. Other designers who did not well as far as creativity and cohesiveness last season, did much better this season. And then, of course there are the designers who have been around for quite some time, who knocked the ball out of the park and I am sure you know which designers I mean.

For this Spring/Summer 2012 season, since there are so many presentations a day (again, twenty or more), I will be writing about the ones that really stood out for the day. Down the line I will write about those new young talents whose collections were really a delight and who I am looking forward to their next collection.

So there you have it. I am now on a roll, ready to do my thing and to give you my thoughts and information of the best of New York. I trust all of you have had a wonderful summer this year and I hope you are still enjoying the warm days we have left over before the fall temperatures really start kicking in.

Stay tuned! Big Hugs.

Karl

Givenchy Couture Fall 2011. Dreams Do Come True.

Riccardo Tisci has been showing his Givenchy Haute Couture in more intimate installations in the grand corner salon of  Place Vendôme. It is a wonderful way in experiencing couture. This time having the designer being the tour guide of this magnificent collection, discussing the craft that he passionately and obviously respects and loves, was a treat. He explains his couture aesthetic, both provocative and captivating. It was enjoyable listening to him explaining their unique manifestations.



Riccardo Tisci



This Fall everything is made in white and rich in embellishments on silk chiffon or tulle. This line up is beautifully sexy and stunning. Everything must be seen at close up to see the most refined metal work imaginable that rendered one dress as stretches of fringe. Or the hand cut tulle paillettes that covered a dress that was inspired by a graduation project at Central St. Martins is mesmerizing. I appreciated the cat's eye pearls, illuminated by encapsulated crystals, attached with thick cashmere rosettes for his meatiest embroideries, on a cropped sweatshirt.

Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011

He explained the painstaking processes; one of which was an embroidery that was accomplished by artisans that wore white gloves as the tool minute stitches with invisible acrylic thread.

Each garment is a beautiful dream come true. All of them designed by Riccardo Tisci for the house of Givenchy.

Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011

by

Riccardo Tisci

 

Givenchy Couture Installation

Fall 2011

Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall 2011. Gorgeous!!!

A wonderful exotic world was met in the foyer at the Théâtre National de Chaillot. There was a vast black bordered red carpet underlit to powerful effect which was perfect for the presentation I was about to see. Armani has always designed wonderful clothes no matter what season it is. Ever since he started Privé, Armani consistently presents beautiful couture designs that are truly spectacular and always takes my breath away. What I always enjoy from Armani is that he is never shy to experiment with shapes, textures and construction. I always look forward to his haute couture collections because there is a powerful simplicity that is so elegant and impressing to the eye.

Giorgio Armani

Dedicated to Japan and the survivors of the earthquake and tsunami, this collection is a loud whisper of sophistication. It is pure elegance that is highly exceptional with the influence of Japanese art and style. He opened with a sleek, structured reed-thin silhouette. His day looks were defined with the peaked shoulders that he loves. There were some beautiful black pieces with pretty partial prints snaking down a sleeve, defining a peplum or spliced across one side of a neckline. For evening the word 'gorgeous' popped in my head. It was the climax of his collection. They were slender and had structure and demanded to be noticed. There were flaps incorporated and folds of fabric that never made anything look overdone. A couple of show stoppers were a black velvet gown with crystal fringing and a melon sequined dress embroidered with flowers, which was the finale piece.
There was never a dull moment in the presentation. I was truly captivated by this supreme collection that truly represented what Armani loves to do. To make a woman look and feel beautiful.

Armani Privé

Haute Couture

Fall 2011

CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2011. Sssnap!!!

The set that was a replica of the Place Vendôme with glass street lamps and the dome scraping monument that had an aluminium replica of the Mademoiselle herself was really breathtaking. It really set the tone for what was coming. And what showed up was a true Chanel collection that was was a mixture of androgyny and femininity. It was amazing!

I love that Mr. Lagerfeld plays with new silhouettes every season. Offering everything from daywear to eveningwear, this collection does not miss a beat. Keeping the integrity of the Chanel look and aesthetic, Lagerfeld always gives it a clever twist of newness and edge that goes with the time we are in, always moving forward.
Most importantly, Lagerfeld gets every single aspect of the hands of couture busy, all of which ultimately create these magnificent, chic clothes.

Karl Lagerfeld for CHANEL

This season the peplum is the focal point of this collection which is done in so many different ways. The suits in black and white tweed are modern, boxy and classic, the skirts were to the knee, and the evening wear had some wow factors that are perfect for the red carpet.  This wonderful collection brought back the attention that haute couture was all about full wardrobe-dressing. Somehow some designers missed the mark in the past but not the house of Chanel.
In the present it is setting the example as Mademoiselle always has done so. Sssssnap!

CHANEL

Haute Couture Fall 2011

Part 1

CHANEL

Haute Couture Fall 2011

Part 2

Red and Hot! Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall 2011.

Alexandre Vauthier has captivated the attention of Roisin Murphy, Rihanna and Beyonce Knowles. He has an eye for shape and is wonderful in executing sexy, modern designs that draws in the attention to his talent.

Alexandre Vauthier

The entire collection was presented in red and it made a passionate, seductive and edgy statement and certainly kept things hot in the room. I enjoyed his daywear which made an impression and it seemed to be a strong part of the show. The passionate red line up consisted of fitted modern suits with high slit skirts and fitted dresses with fox coats to match. I enjoyed the dresses that were perfect for the Red Carpet like the red beaded dress chiffon siren dress and some sexy drapy silhouettes.
The collection was perfectly finished, compared to last season when there were some unfinished hems and seams. The quality of the clothes were quite impressive and well polished.
The last dress of the show made quite an impression all in a nude color and richly beaded encrusted shoulders. I actually wished he showed some more of that.
For a collection that was inspired by a smear of red lipstick, Alexandre Vauthier continues to be quite appealing.

Alexandre Vauthier

Haute Couture

Fall 2011

Anne Valérie Hash Fall Couture 2011. A 10th Anniverary

Anne Valérie Hash 

Anne Valérie Hash celebrated her 10th Anniversary with 10 signature looks that were a blend of tailored pieces with the soft blouses made of the lightest silk mousseline. At the Shangri-La Hotel, these pieces were displayed on wooden mannequins in the gilded ballroom, but they really came to life when two models took turns wearing these ensembles that were gently draped and came in powdery shades of chalk, almond green and peach. A black jumpsuit with a neckline resembling a trouser waistband and a sexy ivory silk dress with a plunging back secured with crisscross ties were quite impressive.
This collection is pretty and very clean. Congratulations, Anne Valérie Hash!

Anne Valérie Hash

Fall Couture

2011

Anne Valérie Hash Fall Couture 2011

L'OFFICIEL

.

Martin Margiela Fall Couture 2011. Inventive.



Martin Margiela showed a collection of a mixture of tailoring and industrial looking fabrics and finishings, all quintessential to the design philosophy of his artistry in fashion. Each outfit expresses the Margiela element of invention. In this case, the popular polypropylene sports socks were assembled into a second-skin sweater in a fresh take on a 1991 Margiela sweater made of army socks, paired with a matching cashmere blanket skirt which is an influence of Joseph Beuys. There was a trenchcoat made of strips of tape that gave a fell of sophistication. There was a transparency theme that continued with jackets and coats that were constructed of this modern horse hair that were layered over the tailoring exposing their intricate skeletons.

Martin Margiela is truly inventive and continues to amaze me with his amazing sense of design.

Martin Margiela Haute Couture

Fall 2011



Martin Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2011

(Filmed by L'OFFICIEL)

Beauty in the Forest. Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Fall 2011.

 Alexis Mabille



Alex Mabille presented his collection of exotic creatures at the Téâtre du Châlet. Based on Jean de la Fontaine's animal fables, these confections were beautiful, but some just missed the mark. I enjoyed the beautiful Ant made in black silk crepe with slits on the sides baring sexy legs, her rival the Grasshoper in a fitted dress of lamé and brown lace with an irredescent bodice and the Black Wolf in black velvet with Swarofsy crystals down along the arms. The Horse came out with long fringe, bunched, to form a bustier tied in the back to form a tail for the train.
One of the most elegant and simplest was the Magpie that was a black swallow tail bolero coat over a white strapless silke crepe column.

While Mabille held everything together with his imagination there were some curses that could have been edited out. The Swan in mustard yellow leggings under tattered white organza, the taffeta and origami silk Raven and the green Frog ball gown would all have me running out of the forest for my life.

Fall Haute Couture 2011

Alexis Mabille is doing better and he did his best in this collection which demonstrated that this was a display of more of what he is capable of. I still think his designs are charming and that he is getting better at adding an allure of unique charm in his one of a kind collections.

Mercí, Alexis!

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Fall 2011

Interview

Alexis Mabille

Haute Couture

Fall 2011



Bouchra Jarrar Fall Couture 2011. Definitely Going Places!

There are Bouchra Jarrar fans out there and a lot of people do not know this. She certainly did not disappoint at all with this Fall Couture presentation! She produced beautiful, well made garments so exquisite that I suggest all of you to follow what she does, because she has a lot to offer to satisfy any woman who is looking for high quality clothes.



All bases were covered from day to evening. The craftsmanship and tailoring played a part to complete the looks that are modern, clean and bold as a result. The beautifully cut little black dress with a skewed slash on the neckline, and wonderful cut outs with her signature piping were present in her dresses and jackets.
Her love for bold graphics were expressed with magnificent stripes of gray and blue that sliced through a gray coat dress, a touch of perfection was on a black tweed dress, and they gave the knits she created a delightful accent.

The designer said that she was playing with the contrast of femininity and masculinity. The beautiful blue color is a memorable color that was truly noticeable. There is no question that her following is growing and that she is gradually becoming a couturier whose clothes will be in the pages of major fashion magazines and that her signature looks will be on the bodies of fashionable high profile women.
She is definitely going to places she never dreamed of!

Bouchra Jarrar

Haute Couture Fall 2011

and Interview

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011. A Splendid Debut.

Giambattista Valli

The Chambre Syndicale's newest guest member made his couture debut and it was very delightful to see a pretty presentation at the 19th-century Galerie de la Madeleine passageway. Giambattista Valli already has a loyal clientele, some of which already have ordered his designs. His designs were sculptured, soft, fluid and played with volume that all satisfied the eyes with some pops of color and wild animal prints. There was beautiful cape that was layered with an embroidery of pretty Lilly of the Valley flowers dripping down the garment, a beautiful tweed suit that was covered with jet beads and ostrich feathers. Impressing stunners included a coral bustier dress with a matching cape and a white flowing dress with beautifully layered shoulders.

This is a great beginning for this couture first timer. The only thing is that it would be great to see a few daytime pieces. Other than that, I am pleased with this presentation.

What a splendid debut!

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture

Fall 2011

Part 1

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture

Fall 2011

Part 2



Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011. A New Era.

The house of Christian Dior has a wonderful history rich of fashion, design and luxury. This house is an amazing laboratory that practices the utmost exquisite craft which is haute couture. Monsieur Dior himself would be proud to this day of his house because it has lasted this long especially in this day and age.
Today, since the dismissal of John Galliano, there is no couturier. While the world is waiting for the announcement of the new creative director for the house, Bill Gaytten had very big shoes to fill and had the challenging task of delivering a top notch couture collection. He did his best.

The presentation took place at Musée Rodin and was presented in a smaller scale. The absence of Galliano was felt and there was a curiosity in the air to see what the vision would be for the Fall/Winter 2011 season.
I have to say that the collection is a disappointment. It did not look cohesive. There was a lot of mish mash of textures, shapes, and silhouettes. Definitely the presence of femininity was there including some of the Dior signatures like the rose which was mixed with some of the layering of textures in some of the garments.
Inspirations were Italian designer Ettore Sottsass, Jean Paul Goude, the architecture of Frank Ghery, the Fifties and the Seventies, and Marc Bohan who was a designer for Dior.

Christian Dior Fall Haute Couture

Backstage and Preview

Ball gowns were inspired by roses. Flowing Caftans was the Marc Bohan influence. Some pieces resembled the textures of  the buildings that Frank Ghery had created around the world. This collection was quite confusing. The last dress, a textured ball gown inspired by Pierrot, that was worn by Karly Kloss was a bit gimmicky.
At best, this is a couture collection that is made by less known hands which is quite risky and intriguing. It is an indication that the house is continuing to present its couture to keep not only the tradition going but to offer some luxe, one of a kind merchandise to its clients and to the world.
At the end of the presentation Bill Gaytten and first assistant Susanna Venegas gave their bows as the moment approaches to announce the new creative director for the house of Christian Dior.

Bill Gaytten and Susanna Venegas

A New Era begins.

Christian Dior Haute Couture

Fall/Winter 2011



Christian Dior Spring Couture 2011. Galliano's Last Collection.

For now I will not get into how Galliano started his career in fashion and where he is now after his day in court on June 22nd, 2011. I will most likely write something about that in the future. For now, just for this blog, I would only want to focus on this amazing collection he designed before his world turned upside down.

John Galliano began his haute couture career at Givenchy and then he was called to design for the house of Dior. I gather that Bernard Arnault saw the extraordinary talent that Galliano had that would be a fit for Christian Dior. I am sure that Monsieur Dior himself would approve the talented Galliano to design couture for the house.

Even though it has been a few months since the Christian Dior Spring Couture show, I have the itch to write about it because I think that this collection, the last one designed by John Galliano, was the most beautiful collection that he created for the house of Dior. It is as if he somehow knew, deep down inside, that he was going to step away and needed to design something outstanding to leave a stamp in the pages of fashion history. I believe he achieved this. I also believe that René Gruau would give a standing ovation.

Illustration by

René Gruau

A tribute to René Gruau was projected through these amazing unique pieces that were displayed so elegantly. Every single resource was used to create these exquisite clothes that were each in their own way breath taking. The accessories added perfect touches. Galliano did a great job in evoking Gruau's brush strokes, colors and even drawing techniques like the shading in his designs.

Photo by
Eric Martin

Out of this favorite Dior collection of mine I have some favorites. But I want you to have a look and see what your favorites are! Take a look. You will be amazed and mesmerized.

Christian Dior Haute Couture

Spring 2011

Part 1

Christian Dior Haute Couture

Spring 2011

Part 2

Chanel Spring Couture 2011. A touch of Karl Lagerfeld.

Karl Lagerfeld is the ultimate freelancing designer. For Chanel it seems as though he has been the channel of Coco and makes the brand look modern, classic, and edgy, if that makes sense. With Lagerfeld in the creative helm since 1983, the House of Chanel has been quite a presence in the fashion world today as it has been in the past. Today Chanel still continues to be a name that will forever be a classic.

Karl Lagerfeld

Lagerfeld's inspiration for Chanel's Spring 2011 Couture Collection is artist Marie Laurencin. In 1923 she designed Les Biches, a ballet commissioned by Diaghlev with a scenario by Cocteau. The lightness and transparent like clothes were whispers of inspiration that were washed in beautiful light pastels and dipped in crystals, beads and sequins. The classic tweed suits were made with a twist, with an updated silhouette that is perfect for today's fashion. The dominant element in the collection were the skinny pants done in all fabrics and textures. When the show was over the curtains and mirror were raised and the entire collection was displayed on the mock up of the mirrored stairs of the house of Chanel where Coco would discreetly sit and watch her collection presentation.

CHANEL Couture

Spring 2011

The passion that Karl Lagerfeld has for Chanel is always greatly expressed

and the result is just delightful.

All resources that can be thought of is always used

to create these beautiful couture collections.

I love that the legend of Chanel goes on and on and on.

Thanks to Karl Lagerfeld!

CHANEL

Couture

Spring 2011

The Brilliance of Armani Privé Spring 2011 Haute Couture

Giorgio Armani is a fashion force full good taste and quality. People reach out and want to experience it.

From window dressing, becoming a buyer for a men's department, designing for Nino Ceruti and freelancing, Armani is a designer with a vast amount of design and marketing experience under his belt.

Ever since 2005 his Armani Privé presentations have been a showcase of craftsmanship mastered by the wonderful hands of his atelier. And I enjoy watching this feast of luxurious Armani quality every season!

Giorgio Armani

The Spring 2011 Couture Collection was an unexpected stimulation of fashion brilliance. When I first saw this collection, I about fell out of my chair. The amazing innovative glamorous and modern collection zapped me. Mesmerizing me and keeping my attention each time a model came out and walked down the runway. I looked forward to this entire collection.

Pre-Show Armani Privé

Haute Couture

Spring 2011

The wonderful cuts of the jackets, the slim legging like pants under wonderful sculpted dresses, fantastic evening gowns, molded in wonderful architectural silhouettes, are all must haves. Almost every outfit was punctuated with a shiny disc hat, a perfect touch. Fabrics were all shiny and the accessories were to live for.
The last three bedazzling dresses that were bejeweled, dripped and encrusted in the most sparkling gems and rhinestones, all gave a wonderful fashion orgasm at the end of the show.

I have no complaints about this collection, whatsoever.

Armani Privé

HAUTE COUTURE

Spring 2011

Jean Paul Gaultier and his enfant terrible Spring Couture 2011 Collection

In the 80's I remember that Gaultier was called the enfant terrible. And rightfully so. Gaultier's designs back then were inspired by pop culture and the street. They were infused with his ingenious touches that were delightful to the eye. Back then I loved his collections and every season I always looked forward to his presentations. The anticipation for his collections is still there and I am never disappointed.

 Gaultier never had any formal training in design. He has worked for Pierre Cardin as an assistant. Eventually he went to Jean Patou and there he suggested to give each assistant a chance to design a collection for a season. The house said that it would be a bit expensive. Well, years later he opened Gaultier Paris, his own couture line.

Jean Paul Gaultier

The Spring Haute Couture 2011 collection that Gaultier offered is a wonderful parade of sophisticated looking women with mohawks pinned in their hair projecting strength, independence and sophistication for the modern world today. This collection is very Parisian. The suits that went down the runway made it quite clear that there are many to choose from and I think that some clients had a hard time choosing. His signature details were not left out. You can see them on showstoppers such as the white and navy striped organza evening dress, a white pant suit with the hour glass jacket, and trench coat influences were seen on some jackets and remarkable dresses. A black beaded halter jumpsuit that looked transparent, had no trouble sparkiling and was seductively breath taking.

All I can say is that this collection designed by an enfant terrible was not terrible at all!

Jean Paul Gaultier

PRINTEMPS/ETE

COUTURE

2011

.

Elie Saab Spring Haute Couture Spring 2011



Elie Saab

Elie Saab is a self taught guy. He taught himself to cut and make patterns and pretty much built a clientelle in his own neighborhood where he was growing up. At 18 he opened his couture atelier with 15 employees. A few months later he presented his first collection to a group of young women and soon developed a reputation for creating ultra feminine clothing, attracting women of high society who desired an Elie Saab dress.

In 1997 he was invited to present his collection at the prestigious Camera Nazionale della Moda as the only non-Italian designer among talented Italian designers. After three years of presenting his collection in Rome, he was invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to present his collection as a guest in Paris.
In 2002 he opened his couture house in the eigth arrondessiment in Paris and gave the international clients an opportunity to order his fine designs.
Then in 2005 Saab opened his couture how right in the heart of the reconstructed downtown area of Beirut. It is a five floor building which houses his atelier, design studio, ready to wear line, couture and bridal salon. This is perfect for the middle eastern clientelle that can go to Beirut rather than Paris if it is a convenience for them.

Many celebrities wear his beautiful couture on the red carpet all over the world.

One of the most memorable ones was the one that Halle Berry wore when she won the Oscar in 2002.

His clientelle keeps growing which indicates that there is a demand for an Elie Saab dress.

His Spring Haute Couture 2011 collection presentation was a wonderful parade of dresses, layered and textured with lace, flowers, embroidery and beading that were intertwined with the chiffons, sliks and organzas. Each dress was draped to flatter the feminine body and constructed to perfection, especially the bodices that were all sprinkled and punctuated with beading and embroidery. What definitely connot be unoticed is the regal wedding dress that is fit for a princessat the end of the presentation. This was a perfect indication of what his bridal salon will be offering according to his vision for brides.

This Spring Haute Couture should not be missed because it has all the ingredients that a woman of any age  would enjoy through and through.

Elie Saab

Haute Couture

Spring 2011

L'AMOUR FOU - Yves Saint Laurent & Pierre Bergé - WONDERFUL!

Anyone who wants to know more about Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé then go watch "L'Amour Fou".
It is a documentary that leads up to the Yves Saint Laurent auction in 2009.
Pierre Bergé who was Yves Saint Laurent's life and business partner gives a wonderful intimate interview.
It illustrated the deep love he had for Saint Laurent. The ball starts rolling when he reveals how he and Saint Laurent met each other.

Bergé speaks about how the business started and how he knew nothing about the Haute Couture business only to help Saint Laurent open a house so that he could express his incredible talent as a couturier.
The Paris, Normandy and Morocco living spaces they lived in were totally dreamy and amazing. Each living space was beautifully decorated and looked luxurious and sometimes decadent. Glimpses of how each piece of art is being appraised and boxed up and packed for the auction are woven in the film.
The auction was pretty interesting and it was exciting to see people putting bids in for these pieces spending millions of euros.



Saint Laurent's drug and alcohol addiction was spoken of and how it had a toll on their relationship and how they pulled through that chapter to the point of Saint Laurent's seclusion and retirement.
Bergé reveals the real reason why Yves Saint Laurent retired and I agree with the reason why.
I do think that Couture is finding its way back to evolving into a bigger presence in the fashion world because each season there are new talented couturiers emerging with wonderful collections.

The movie had a haunting bitter sweet quality. Pierre Bergé speaks of Saint Laurent with a gentle pride and a bit of longing, missing his love very much. No...he does not cry but you can see it in his eyes and if you listen carefully, you can feel the loss of his loved one in his speech.
It was very interesting to have that glimpse inside that relationship because I always wondered how they made each other tick. It is obvious to me that they really loved each other and that somehow that they complimented each other very well. This obviously reflected clearly in their business and their private lives..
It felt as though Yves Saint Laurent was invisible in every frame watching over Bergé and I have no doubt in my mind that this is true.
In the end I thought this documentary was Pierre Bergé's love story with Yves Saint Laurent and shows us more so who Yves Saint Laurent was as a designer and a human being and it was wonderful.

Alexandre Vauthier and Spring Couture 2011

Alexandre Vauthier is a couturier who is surely making his mark in the world of Couture. His reputation is growing and he is gaining a clientelle that includes celebrities such as Rihanna and French singer Kerry Ann.
His obvious sleek, seductive and glamorous creative energy is potent and is surely a pleasure to witness.
I am really happy to see that he is one of the new rising couturiers among others, who is creating a buzz.

Alexandre Vauthier is a former law student who dove into fashion studies with fervor and determination. He worked with Mr. Thierry Mugler himself on Mugler's team. After 4 years he went on to become the assistant for Jean Paul Gaultier's budding Haute Couture collection, Gaultier Paris. Four years after that he showed a collection under his own name on January 20th, 2009 at La maison des Metallos.

Alexandre Vauthier

 With all of this being said, his collection was a little repetitive. I did enjoy the retro disco look and the sexy metallic dresses that looked like metallic liquid poured onto the models. It was refreshing to see the geometric print caftan in the middle of the hobble wearing models. I noticed too, that the finishing of the garments were not up to par, maybe because there were last minutes adjustments being made and they were not finsished on time. The seduction that these designs were radiating surely kept my eye's attention.

The potential of becoming a humungous couture force is definitely present. With some fine tuning in details and finishing I am certain that it will raise the frequency even higher on Vaultier's Haute Couture quality scale.

Alexandre Vauthier
Couture Eté
2011

The Latest on Galliano

More legal problems continue to pile up for Galliano. John Galliano who is to stand on trial in Paris on a charge of public insult has a legal action taken against him by his former lawyer Stéphane Zerbib. Zerbib was recently dismissed following the alleged discovery of irregularities in respect to his firm's administration of Galliano's financial affairs over a number of years.
It is confirmed by Zerbib that he and his lawyer, Emma Lapijower, will file a charge of defamation against Galliano, among other complaints.

Galliano has a lot on his plate. There is a lot to be taken care of. And the unknown is truly where Galliano is right now. Surrendering to all of this is the only way to go. It looks like everything is out of control. Yet all that is unsettled, will settle. Just like the stirred up sand in the turbulent waters of the ocean that once the water is still the sand will settle quietly and there is clarity once more.
The beat goes on.



In the Zone. An Exquisite Valentino Spring 2011 Couture Collection

The world of couture is changing and is one of the unique specialties in the world that seems to be an exotic rarity today that some ladies have the privilege to enjoy. Thank goodness there are new young couturiers who are finding their way and making their mark in the alluring world of Couture. Valentino definitely made his.
But when Valentino announced his retirement in 2007, I was horrified and shocked. I asked myself, what is going to happen to the world of Haute Couture since all of the greats are retiring or dying?? Yves Saint Laurent is gone and now Valentino is going!

Enter Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierre Paolo Piccioli. They have previously designed accessories for the label for 10 years. Really? Accessories? What makes them qualified to design Haute Couture when their experience is only accessories? With the full support of Valentino himself Chiuri and Piccioli presented their first collection in 2009.
In the past their collections were confusing because they were infusing their own ideas while still maintaining the essentials of the house. I saw that it is going to take time for this design duo to sail through the turbulence and land smoothly into the groove of the Valentino world of Couture. This Spring season they presented a collection that exhibited their persistance in pleasing the Valentino fans, clients and editors.

Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pierre Paolo Piccioli

Yes. This collection was quite exquisite! Garments were produced that radiated every aspect of Valentino. Transparency combined with elegance in every way is a promise these designers kept and gave to all those anticipating this collection.
Chiuri and Piciolli hit the Couture bull's eye with a parade of lace, bows, ruffles, flowers, pleats, plissé and beading. Underneath all of this is the incredible workmanship. "Researching lightness, subtracting weight." said Piccioli.
Clients, fans and editors are all delighted with this wonderful collection.
Chiuri and Piccioli are finally in the zone.

Valentino

COUTURE

Spring/Summer 2011

John Galliano has a new Lawyer

John Galliano's trial date is approaching. On May 12th Galliano is expected in the High Court to stand trial on a charge of public insult.
Galliano has new legal representation. Aurélien Hamelle at Metzner Associés in Paris has been appointed to represent the designer according to his London based publicist Jo Milloy. Stéphane Zerbib was recently dismissed as Galliano's lawyer following the discovery of apparent irregularities in respect to his firm's administration of Galliano's financial affairs over the years. Zerbib is unreachable for any comment.

During the whirlpool of disintegration, Galliano was dismissed from Dior and even from his namesake house and being charged for hurling insults to three people. An intense video spread like fire in cyberspace showing Galliano slurring "I love Hitler". When I saw this video, I thought how intoxicated he was with alcohol. All I saw was someone who was absolutely drunk and had absolutely no idea what he was saying or doing. It may be possible that he if he went home and woke up the next day, he would not even remember what he said or did that night.
The penalty in France for insult against people due to their origin, belonging or not belonging to religion, race or ethnicity is six month imprisonment and a fine of 22,500 euros, or $31,217 at current exchange, according to the French prosecutor.

The designer is currently receiving extended "after care" when he completed an intensive on month treatment at a rehabilitation center in Arizona.
Galliano apologized in March saying: "I must take responsibility for the circumstances in which I find myself and for allowing myself to be seen to be behaving in the worst possible light. I only have myself to blame and I know that I must face up to my own failures and I must work hard to gain people's understanding and compassion."

As the court date approaches I am sure the press is gearing up to be right there before, during and after the trial. Who knows what the outcome will be. What ever it will be it is going be a new start to a new beginning for Galliano's life. For me this is a demonstration that we are all human. We make mistakes. We have a choice in that moment to either punish ourselves or berate ourselves for making them or we can take a breath and look at the mistake and notice what to do the next time and to tell ourselves that everything is fine and that evreything is going to be OK. I know I would choose to do the thing that would make me feel better and loved. Which choice do you think would make you feel better?

Enter Olivier Rousting at Balmain

One day in 2005, when I was reading Vogue, I noticed a snippet that Balmain was going to present a collection designed by Christophe Decarnin. I was really excited that the Balmain name is finding its way back into the fashion world because after the Haute Couture was shuttered, Balmain almost dissapeared completely. I read that Decarnin was the Artistic director of Paco Rabanne for seven years. I did not know what to expect only to hope that the upcoming collection would be strong enough to revitalize the Balmain name.
Eventually Balmain got back on its feet, thanks to Decarnin and the sexy, high dresses, lightweight T-shirts and ornate embroidery he created that dominated the runway. These could not stay on the racks...or shelves. The Balmain name has claimed its rightful place in fashion once more.

Christophe Decarnin

This year Decarnin was not at the Fall 2011/12 presentation due to his depression and his doctors orders. He then left Balmian abruptly because Decarnin and CEO Alain Hivelin had different views of strategy and direction for the fast growing company. The Decarnin era at Balmain ends and the Rousteing era begins.
Olivier Rousteing has been appointed as the designer of the women's and men's ready-to-wear collections. Rousteing has been in charge of the Balmain women's studio since 2009 and worked at Roberto Cavalli for five years. For his appointment Rousteing said, "I plan to honor that confidence by ensuring that Pierre Balmain always remains one of the leading brands that others look to as a reference." He did not elaborate on what his planned vision is for the House of Balmain.

Olivier Rousteing

It is actually nice to see that an unknown is given the chance to show what they can do. I can only imagine the pressure and the excitement that Rousteing may feel. What a great opportunity for him!
I look forward to see what Balmain has to offer again. Rousteing is practically an unknown. And you know what? Why not give an understudy a chance. The audience will certainly like what he does. I'm sure.

Beautiful Blessings for Givenchy Haute Couture Spring 2011 by Riccardo Tisci

Riccardo Tisci is a gifted and spirited talent indeed. He has been creating beautiful, modern designs that is attracting more admirers, if not more clients to the House of Givenchy. His passionate creative energy is continuously evolving and growing and there is no stopping it. There is no mistake that the forces of the universe put him in a position to work in one of the most luxurious houses in Haute Couture.

Riccardo Tisci

At 17 he went to London's Central Saint Martin"s College of Art and Design and graduated in 1999 only to go back to his home country to work for Antonio Berardim, Coccapani, Puma and Ruffo Research. He later designed his own line and showed it at the Milan Fall 2005-2006 shows. On February 28th, 2005 he was appointed creative director of Haute Couture, ready-to-wear and accessories lines for Givenchy. He loves romanticism and sensuality.
One of the darlings of Bernard Arnault of LVMH, he is most likely on the list of successors for creative director at the House of Dior. We will see if he is chosen when the time comes. In the meantime he is in the right place at the right time and for his Spring 2011 couture, he produced an exquisite group of masterpieces that expresses his passion for Haute Couture and all its metiers.

This beautiful collection was inspired by the Japanese dancer Kazuo Ohno and the crane as a symbol of Asian art. These brilliant pieces are truly works of art because they are mixed beautifully with Tischi's love for hard construction softened by delicate couture treatments. One outfit required 2,000 hours cutting and 4,000 hours of sewing.

I guarantee that he prayed before showing this collection, as he always does before a presentation.

And the powers that be, he delivered.

Givenchy

HAUTE COUTURE
Spring/Summer 2011