Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti Fall 2012 is Clean Strong Class

The models entered and exited on the runway by escalators on either end of the Grand Promenade inside Avery Fisher Hall.

This fantastic collection radiated a powerful, clean, elegant and sophisticated femininity by Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti that was absolutely breath taking. Ferretti looked at today's career driven youth for today's inspiration. "They pay more attention to their future." The line up was strong and was layered and had modern touches. It opened with a crisp white power suit cinched at the waist which was a perfect beginning to the theme of the show.

It evolved to slightly stricter silhouettes. The fabulous coats were tailored and chic like the camel one with gradations of color at the torso. Other pieces were perfect for the board room. All this is not all about work though because there is play mixed in all of this. There were looks that featured high glamour moments which were several metallic and PVC dresses that were futuristic within the classic looks and several other beaded shift dresses.

Alberta Ferretti this go around showed a more cleaner and sharper collection that compared to last season's Twenties version was a whisper to the future with class and power. 



Proenza Schouler Fall 2012 Oversizes Fashion.

Proenza Schouler has moved forward for the fall 2012 season with clothes that had an Eastern influence. If you think karate, kimonos and samurai you will get the jist. The silhouette they played with is oversized which is a trend that they seem to make official for the season. The tops and pants came in stiff white cottons, like karate gis, or in waxy black leather.

Leather is a big element here. The designers worked it by weaving thin strips of leather in navy, black and white say, into a tiny grid for a side-zip jacket. The quilted satin varsity jackets embroidered with pheasants on the chest were really impressive and this is the same for the woven paillette skirts which these were paired with. This showed the wonderful handiwork of these designers. The wonderful brocade they used for long-sleeve dresses were marvelous in the construction that they almost looked like jackets and flippy miniskirts.

It is a remarkable collection and showed that evolution for these designers is on going and it is wonderful to watch. They have no problem in taking any risks in trying out new ideas and that is one of the most amazing qualities they have. The fashion crowd is always pleased and look forward for more. Proenza Schouler, keep up the good work!



L'Wrenn Scott Designing Her Way for Fall 2012.

 

L'Wrenn Scott called this collection Tea Time. A perfect name for a line up that had details and influences of England from the 1900's to WWII. Fitted and lean silhouettes walked down and showed ensembles that was a pure mixture of jewel tones and bright spots of color washed with some black. Scott does a great job in showing the female body by designing pieces that basically come in different lengths, fabrics and details that celebrates femininity that is seductive and sexy in a glamorous and stylish way.
 

 

A cream number of a fitted jacket over a slinky number and a bow in the back on the neck was a charm and a dark olive sweater embroidered in the front and yellow plush fur on the shoulder matching with a pair of sexy cut tweed pants was whimsical. To continue the whimsy she offered printed tea dresses with swishy skirts that were playful and sexy.



A sharp ensemble of a purple brocade jacket over a matching ponyskin skirt and fuchsia chiffon blouse trimmed with velvet bows radiates modern glamour.

 

The show could not be with out a line up of evening drama. It went from from a velvet over the knee dress to a beaded tunic over black pants for cocktail to slinky floor sweeping satin dress to a regal black velvet finale number.

 

Scott continues to design her own way and has a strong point of view that she needs to maintain. This collection shows the signature L'Wrenn Scott look and it is sticking.



Reed Krakoff Fall 2012 is Cleanliness.



This fall Reed Krakoff created more body conscious garments which is shows an evolution to his signature minimalist style. This is his fifth season and this time around he discovered the waist. A brown polished leather coat nipped in the midsection and falling in an A-line shape to the knee and a black python bandeau that gave shape to a chiffon blouse and trousers were a couple of perfect examples. White, black and red were the main colors mixed in with ivory, grey and brown. Krakoff did not exclusively offer hourglass silhouettes.



He offered crisp pantsuits some of which could have worked on their own without the bulk of the cropped, hooded vests he showed with some of them. Knits were good looking and were great basics put together with some ensembles and perfectly so since it is a part of his burgeoning business. Fur patches on the sleeves of one and a front panel leather on another upped the special factor. What was missing were cocktail and evening which he entirely opted out and he only showed three bags in 30 looks. No matter because all of his looks really kept up the cleanliness and the quality of his collection.

 

Reed Krakoff
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

Zac Posen Fall 2012 is touching Luxury.



One of the best fall collections for fall/winter is Zac Posen. He designed beautiful and dramatic clothes that were stunning in craftsmanship and details. It also celebrated the appreciation of the female body and by adorning it with these creations it magnified the beauty of the woman.
This was done with a fascination of the chinoiserie and Japan.



Short dresses, evening gowns and evening suits came in red, gold, jewel tones and neutral tones. Beautiful floral jacquards and wonderful obi sashes were added to give a fantastic Eastern touch. The entire collection has a luxurious air and cannot help but radiate a splendorous elegance.



This was all because of the Posen signature silhouettes which were the peplum waisted tops and jackets, the sharp tailoring, super slim waists and the mermaid gowns of which stunning bodices were built of fabulous seams and detail work. When things are pared down this is when Posen is truly at his best. He is a great talent and is more grounded in his design process and because of this the results are beautiful.

Zac Posen

Fall 2012 

Betsy Johnson Fall 2012 is Mod and Fun!





An early Sixties era video clip of screaming girls on the tarmac as they awaited for the arrival of the Fab Four opened the show. The lit up "BETSEYMANIA"was the background and the line up was all a playful Carnaby Street inspired collection that only Betsey Johnson can do best.

 



Skinny herring bone suits, maxi dresses, psychedelic prints, boyish coats and mini skirts, fluffy faux fur were some of the examples of this tour of the golden age of this famous street.

 



There were the true Johnson vintage touches such as the bouffant wallpaper-print mini dress and the straight forward mod looks looked like true Betsy through and through. There were some great down-to-earth pieces, like a cropped motorcycle jacket made from  pink-flecked ivory boucle and a pair of wide-leg, low-rise trousers. The go-go looks were glam and modern and the final look which was a hot fuchsia dress that clung and fit in all the right places was a great ending note to the show.

Betsey Johnson's shows are always worth looking forward too because they are energetic and fun just like the essence that dwells within her.

Betsey Johnson
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

Vera Wang Fall 2012. Subtle Edge in Elegance.

In the program notes there was a sentence that said "Opposites...are revealed in grey." What does this statement mean? It was a bit confusing. Gray was pretty much mixed into a lot of black, vibrant orange and nude. There were some blue in the mix as well.



Vera Wang is a designer who always has a vision  that stimulates the fashion palette of any woman who desires modern elegance in style and fashion. 
Last season Wang offered so much transparency that was a bit unpractical to wear, whereas this season there is a sense of wearable practicality. She makes them in wonderful artful configurations and matches them up with quite impressive outerwear, opening in beige wool, moving into charcoal. This ranged from sleeveless coat to a more feminine cape jacket. The contrast of vibrant tangerine with pale chiffons were great contrasts.



The beautiful Dutch blue chiffon and organza gowns with crystal mesh embellishments and the architectural prints on languid silks were a great mixture of hard and soft. There were some looks that had a lot going on such as the peculiar abdominal froth looks. Other looks were just perfect with the elements of strength and beauty with a gentle sophisticated quality.
Vera Wang expresses a wonderful stream of femininity which has a subtle edge that never compromises the elegance. Excellent.

 

 

Vera Wong

Fall/Winter

2012-2013



Rodarte Fall 2012 is Australia.

 

Kate and Laura Mulleavy's take on Australia is not the kind that is all about the surfing of Bondi or the monumental and stately curves of the opera house, but it was all about the more romantic and distant past as the sisters have informed. "We had a huge story to tell about the history and the landscape and the way we viewed where everything came from there," said Laura postshow. Here they did a wonderful job at creating a collection that had the most amazing creative intelligence that they are known for and yet maintaining a commercial quality to feed the commercial end of the business and it all worked out brilliantly.



The rich dusty blue blues and rust tones of arid Australia colored the clothes beginning with the soft circle skirts and the cropped blouses with dolman sleeves. They reflected the the homely innocence of the Thirties. There was the Outback as well that played a part. The rugged terrain played a part in the Mulleavys creative process bringing forth outstanding fisherman sweaters and patchwork of aviator shearlings, which are now having a moment this instant and I am certain they will be in a store near you this season. This leather work continued into sheaths nipped in the waist and sporting Aboriginal patterns that moved the line up in an edgier direction. One of the elegant features of the collection were the perfect Victorian-inspired gowns that came in hand printed tiered chiffon and loose columns and black lace collars connected with tulle for a strapless effect.
Rodarte is truly a brand that takes creativity to a whole great intelligent level.

 

Rodarte

Fall/Winter

2012-2013 

Badgley Mischka Fall 2012



Badgley Mischka offers a mixture of sparkle and modern elegance. The stunning gold dress with the beaded shoulders and low back really set the tone for the collection. The gold is rich and laced throughout the collection. Little black dresses had accents of gold on the shoulders to add some shiny touches and black column dresses were touched by gold as well on the low back right above the bum. Peek-a-boo shoulders were quite right and quite sexy. Speaking of sexy, a long sleeved black evening gown, draped at the hip was slit up to here and a gold ensemble of a bodice and skirt were a couple of hot pieces.



Many jackets and coats with volume, short or simply tailored were matched with pants that were bell bottom or slim. Some other fabrics were liquid and velvet and were elegant and festive. Badgley Mischka as always present pieces for any special occasion and never forgets to make pieces that can go from day to evening. Of course their evening wear and cocktail dresses always impress because this time around they did some fabulous beading, cuts and feather work. How elegant! Never doubt their eye and their talent. They always deliver.

 



Sophie Theallet Fall 2012

Sophie Theallet envisioned aristocratic families who lost their fortune and stopped maintaining their castles. In a preview Theallet said that they still look beautiful and are continuing to live an elegant life. The result of this inspiration is translated into a faded notion of glamour. Turtle necks tucked under cocktail dresses, a one shouldered dress nipped in the waist, and brocade like patterns were some of the examples that made this collection elegant and showed the sophistication of Theallet's work for this fall/winter season. Couture like touches are her traits and will always show in any collection she designs and that is what she does best.



Stéphane Rolland is Exquisite for Fall/Winter Couture 2012-2013

Stéphane Rolland delivered another beautiful collection filled with exquisite fabrics, shapes and craftsmanship that was a foundation to the crisp clean looks that walked down the runaway. Dramatic capes were main features in the collection. They were ranging from the Zorro-like floor sweeper on a chic black wool trouser suit with a plunging neckline, to yards of silk or chiffon billowing in the wake of softly draped evening gowns tufted with tiny feathers.



A white column number decorated with crystals on the cap of the sleeves radiated power and elegance. Every season Rolland offers designs that are extraordinary and modern that will make any woman feel elegant, sexy and powerful. There is an irresistible pull that these garments have because they are gorgeous and truly speak for themselves.
Rolland has succeeded once again fulfilling his promise as a talented and an extraordinary designer.

Stéphane Rolland

Haute Couture

Autumn/Winter

2012-2013

Carolina Herrera Fall/Winter 2012-13

Regal colors and silhouettes dominated. The first group that was a combination of black and navy were absolutely classy and elegant. Throughout there was a commitment of displaying true regal elegance with subdued colors.

Luxurious fabrics such as knits combined with feather and fur details blurred the line between traditional day and eveningwear, and had a modern flexibility. For example, a turtleneck sweater was sewn with broadtail details on the front and worn with an embroidered wool pencil skirt, and a wispy embroidered silk dress peaked out from under a cozy melange knit coat. There were a number of beautiful gowns with full skirts that were done in modern ways that maintained the Carolina Herrera signature. Abstract prints by artist Joe Duke were painted onto fabrics that were a bit too much and some of these pieces seem to be out of place in the line up.


The finale dress was stunning. Its ample wide and full skirt and cinched in waist accented by a black belt proudly closed the show reminding all those present Carolina Herrera's flair for glamorous, regal and classic modern creativity.

Carolina Herrera

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Solid Theyskens' Theory Fall/Winter 2012-13.



A solid and strong collection this time around by Theykens. There was sophistication and glamour to the casual sportswear with looks such as the gold tweed coats and jackets that displayed the strong tailoring skills, as well as the ombré effects on denim and velvet. Some black leather jackets, skirts and shorts gave some wonderful tough yet soft touches in the line up that worked well together with the coats and sweaters.
The evening pieces were romantic and elegant. Clinging beautifully on the body they had an ease and beauty that was reminiscent to the work he did at Nina Ricci.and Rochas. Theyskens' Theory is wonderful this season and very accessible and will make anyone feel beautiful, modern and sophisticated.

Theyskens' Theory

Fall/Winter

2012-2013



Romantic Mood at Thakoon for Fall 2012

It was surprising to see Thakoon Pachigul playing with some prime shapes and silhouettes this fall season which some were short, straight and had three-quarter length sleeves. The models were done up in messy french twists and lips that matched the shades of romance and passion in the clothes that were vibrant (magenta, fuchsia, and cherry red - like the colors of the heart). Pachigul said "I was feeling a bit more romantic. It's charming in an old school way, like romantic New York." He is in the mood for love.

There was a subtle feel of sexuality through the collection. Some shiny crinkled dresses were a representation of the daring. A camel coatdress that looked plain and proper had a purple leopard-printed pony collar and an openwork leather basket weave in back. A black halter pantsuit with a low revealing back made a sexy point. This was one of the chic understatements in his collection.

This collection was romantic just like Pachigul was feeling and it was enjoyable.

THAKOON

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Donna Karan Fall 2012 is Irresistably Tailored.

Donna Karan created a magnificent fall collection that is irresistible. It was a collection that was structured, clean, architectural and feminine. She returned to glam this fall creating power dressing that also exuded sexiness and femininity.

Plenty of tailoring was included in addition to many pinstripes. Karan incorporated her signature asymmetric details in the mix - half collars side draping, off kilter slits - and she had the nerve (in a good way) to revive the wide shoulders. Fedoras by Stephen Jones that had a "cubist" asymmetric appeal were the finishing touches to these looks. Evening had some fresh looks, from a full on black beaded jacket and skirt ensemble was quite a show stopper as well as a strapless beaded metal gray dress that just hits the spot. Enjoy this splendor of what is to come this fall and winter by Donna Karan!.

Donna Karan

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Imperial Elie Saab for Couture Fall/Winter 2012-2013.

Elie Saab sent down elegant long, slinky, sumptuous and elegant black gowns that were lacey, transparent and sexy down the runway that are fit for his high end lady clientele. This just set the tone of what to expect from this designer for the fall/winter season.



An emphasis was put on the waist by pinching it in and offering some blousey silhouettes that were all encrusted with beads, sequins and embroidery. Some necklines and deep V-backs of some gowns were traced with beautiful delicate lace. A touch of neat braided hair and a great walk made a true power of elegance radiate throughout the show.



Turkey is the inspiration for Saab, with Ottoman motifs "infusing the collection with imperial splendor," he said. That he did for sure with a plethora of encrusted embroideries and giving a lightness with whispering Bospherous blues on some dresses and the faded carpet prints adorning others. Plenty of gold was sprinkled effortlessly on gowns, cocktail suits and coats.



A plunging sizzling gold number worn by the beautiful Karlie Kloss framed her waist with two crescent shapes which are symbols to the empire and Constantinople. Finally the bride with all her might carried the heavy brocaded gown and lengthy train and she gracefully did pull all of it with all her might. The gown was beautiful but may be a bit challenging to walk down the aisle. All in all this collection has many red carpet looks and is truly imperial and had all the wonderful touches that are perfect for anyone who wants to feel like a princess.

Elie Saab

Haute Couture

Autumn/Winter

2012-2013

Giogio Armani Privé is about Sunrise and Midnight for Couture Fall/Winter 2012-13.

There is one word that labels this Armani Privé collection for Fall/Winter: BEAUTIFUL! Yes, with capital letters. Giorgio Armani this time did a study of the sensitivity of light and shade. He demonstrated this with sunrise and midnight hues that created an impeccable collection.



The show opened with a masculine sense of style mixed with feminine touches with shirtlike jackets in billowing organza with wide legged velvet pants. What was dominant were dressy pants which seem to be Armani's main fashion message. Beautiful flowing black velvet pants paired with filmy organza cardigans with silvery embroideries proved to make a point in high feminine elegance. Daybreak colors were used and leaned towards evening. Waistcoats and peak lapel jackets in heavy silks proved to be such examples. Armani who is known to use a grey-to-beige color palette turned out vivid color-block tops and a cheery tricolor tunic.



When the crickets on the soundtrack started it was the moment for the night-sky portion of the collection which was stunning. The sinuous and sleek black gowns were the popular silhouette at this fall collection and many of them were strapless.

The models were veiled with crystal studded tunic scarves adding a mystic touch to the designs. The show was in its climax when one stunning dress after another came out in sequins and rhinestones, velvet, organza and satins; all in different hues of midnight blues and blacks.



The finale look was a spectacular bustier dress with Swarovski Elements that looked like constellations dripping down all over it. Armani really captured the sunset and the night sky filled with sparkling stars so well and made it all look exquisite.

Armani Privé

Haute Couture

Fall/Winter

2012-13



Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter Couture 2012 is Borderline Dandy.



The couture collections by Jean Paul Gaultier are always to look forward to.



The space was filling up with anticipating haute couture spectators. But then there was an eighty minute wait that verged to a space of annoyance. It was crowded and too hot in this venue even though there were newly installed airconditioning. Due to a movie shoot that went on at the site since eight in the morning it did not sit well with all there who were spectators to the show. Hopefully with a fabulous show the annoyance would dissolve and all would be forgotten. The satisfaction was not guaranteed.



The show opened with Pete Doherty's mournful declaration on the soundtrack that he has the disease of the century debauched disillusionment), the snippet from the film "Confession Child of the Century," in which Doherty plays a 19th century aesthete. IN addition to this was Gaultier's inspiration of Metropolis mixed with a Jazz-Age dandy motif. The designer showed off his tailoring and top hats, metal headbands and wonderfully decorated wraps were accessories. The perfect cuts that Gaultier always offers in every collection are all divine. He offered many ideas of which some were great and some were simply tricky or just flat.



The endless mannish looks that paraded down the runway all seemed out of place in this couture presentation. If there were men's "haute couture" shows it would make more sense to present there. Maybe it was too late to show these dandy pieces at the time of the men's show which ended the week before. If Gaultier was trying to make androgyny a point he could have been clearer. Out of the plethora of futuristic flapper looks there were some that can be picked that were stunning.



Now that Puig is holding the majority of stake, Gaultier is a house of transition. Hopefully Gaultier can take a moment to just step back and take a breath and go to the drawing board and create a collection that is more cohesive and at the same time expressing the Gaultier touch we know and love.

Jean Paul Gaultier

HAUTE COUTURE

Autumn/Winter

2012-2013



New Vintage at CHANEL for Fall/Winter Couture 2012-2013.

CHANEL

continues to be one of the best couture houses in the world.

This Fall season Karl Lagerfeld made sure that this collection stands out, especially in the wake of the debut of a certain newcomer in the world of couture. The words classic and new comes to mind after viewing this collection. Once more it is couture at its best.

The collection was presented at the Grand Palais, Lagerfeld's favorite venue. There were tons of trees with silk camellias around the room and white wicker furniture gave a nice summer flavor to the room, where people simply lounged under a beautiful ceiling mural of painted clouds that took three weeks to complete. The invitation and press notes featured Lagerfeld's illustration of Mademoiselle against a pink background which is a nice touch that matches with the presentation.



"I like the title New Vintage. It's very Chanel, but it's not vintage yet. It's the next vintage, and what Chanel should be 100 years after the house opened." Which is obviously even more so since Lagerfeld's tenure has kept the essence of the house secure as well as keeping the standards of its couture extremely high. This is so by manifesting day wear that came out one after another in an array of tweeds in various mixtures of black, grey, white and pink. The sporty looks were impeccable. The winter coats are perfect and worth fighting for. Very ultra chic.



Evening was light, delicate and feminine and had the CHANEL touches and details that looked romantic and elegant. Ultra chic continues here. Soft looks and delicate blouses were paired with beautiful trousers to a beautiful steel grey silk charmuse number over a light soft pink dress. You just have to have a look for yourself and witness the beautiful line up and enjoy these top drawer looks.



From beginning to end this collection is not only created by the genius of Lagerfeld but also by the hands of the ateliers of CHANEL. The atelier did wonderful work in embroidery, sequin and bead work and intricate lace patch work. This collection is one that Mademoiselle CHANEL would be proud of and certainly tickled pink about it and she would have been amused at the idea of the new vintage look.

CHANEL

Haute Couture

Autumn/Winter

2012-2013