The couture collections by Jean Paul Gaultier are always to look forward to.
The space was filling up with anticipating haute couture spectators. But then there was an eighty minute wait that verged to a space of annoyance. It was crowded and too hot in this venue even though there were newly installed airconditioning. Due to a movie shoot that went on at the site since eight in the morning it did not sit well with all there who were spectators to the show. Hopefully with a fabulous show the annoyance would dissolve and all would be forgotten. The satisfaction was not guaranteed.
The show opened with Pete Doherty's mournful declaration on the soundtrack that he has the disease of the century debauched disillusionment), the snippet from the film "Confession Child of the Century," in which Doherty plays a 19th century aesthete. IN addition to this was Gaultier's inspiration of Metropolis mixed with a Jazz-Age dandy motif. The designer showed off his tailoring and top hats, metal headbands and wonderfully decorated wraps were accessories. The perfect cuts that Gaultier always offers in every collection are all divine. He offered many ideas of which some were great and some were simply tricky or just flat.
The endless mannish looks that paraded down the runway all seemed out of place in this couture presentation. If there were men's "haute couture" shows it would make more sense to present there. Maybe it was too late to show these dandy pieces at the time of the men's show which ended the week before. If Gaultier was trying to make androgyny a point he could have been clearer. Out of the plethora of futuristic flapper looks there were some that can be picked that were stunning.
Now that Puig is holding the majority of stake, Gaultier is a house of transition. Hopefully Gaultier can take a moment to just step back and take a breath and go to the drawing board and create a collection that is more cohesive and at the same time expressing the Gaultier touch we know and love.
Jean Paul Gaultier