An art collection of U.S. Olympic athletes at the most recent Venice Biennale was the inspiration for Nanette Lepore. There was an athletic vibe in her very feminine collection that was washed with bright neon colors. She played with structures and proportions such as jackets with peplum, polished buttoned-up shirts and sexy cropped tops which were all paired with full circle skirts. What stood out really strongly were the neon colors - shades of citron, tangerine and hibiscus pink - all providing a joyful and youthful energetic flair.
Douglas Hannant designed a collection that was young and lady like with a touch of sport. This collection will bring in new followers in addition to his old ones. There were some beautiful blouses, sexy knit dresses, and pretty cocktail dresses. This is such a fresh collection and is worth having a peek to pick a spring outfit.
Douglas Hannant
Spring/Summer 2012
Fiona Cibani has been going down the architectural road for a few seasons now and the results continue to be mixed. At Ports 1961 beautiful linear dresses and wrap vests and jackets tie with a neon cord were nice touches. Knit color blocked dresses were quite chic. And some suits were just the perfect looks for Spring 2012. There were some sheaths with intricate draping and pattern plays. There were some odd fabric choices (crinkle viscose and puffy plissé)and knit pants that were fashioned in rouching which is not a friend to any woman over 105 pounds.
Ports 1960
Spring/Summer 2012
Michelle Smith put forth a show with geometric prints, zigzag patterns, electric colors, color blocking in beautiful linear shapes and looks. This entire line is done in a very clever way that there were no mistakes in any color or print combination at all. Artist Sonia Delaunay is the inspiration for this designer's vision for Spring /Summer 2012 and there will be no resisting a design from Milly by Michelle Smith.
When I saw the first look turn the corner and then walk down the runway I knew what to expect for this collection by Oscar de la Renta. This was a collection of beauty and exuberance that really demnstrated the exquisite vision that de la Renta had for Spring/Summer 2012. There was something not only for a certain kind of woman but for every type of woman. This is for the proper ladies, debutantes, the sex pot, even for the kind of woman who has a bohemian streak. The embellishments were rich and lavish: airy organza appliques, to sassy allover tassels and major sequins encrustations. Crochet and lace was throughout and the beautiful evening gowns were to salivate over.
I especially loved this pastel pink feathered column dress that effortlessly floated down the runway. It was fantastic!
Oscar still has the elegant touch and it is never to be underestimated!
The Mulleavy sisters are now at the point of an ongoing challenge of merging the commercial and artistic endeavors. It is quite wonderful to see how far they have gotten. Each time they show their collection it is so obvious how they think out of the box and push the limits of using color, textures and shapes fearlessly, thus creating collections that look modern, artistic and feminine. This Rodarte collection bore the evidence of a desire to be more commercial while protecting the artistry at the core of their work.
Inspired by Van Gogh - his sunflowers, swirls of stars, brushstrokes and vibrant colors - the clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, contsruction and fantastical gowns. Off-the-shoulder dresses that were draped at the shoulders in a floral-print are true and feminine. A structured cocktail dress with a dropped waist and folded circle skirt looked new. A beautiful gown of iridescent seafoam tulle in sunflower embroidery was a treasure. What could not be seen is the internal construction. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure. The designers' fixation on craft was apparent on some of the frocks. In the mix were tapered, cropped pants, tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters that would be a feast for retailers.
I think that this collection would put a smile on Van Gogh's face. It sure put a smile on mine.
When designers are experimenting, evaluating and even challenging themselves there is an amazing artistic result that manifests from this process. This spring it is no wonder that Vera Wang named her collection for spring after Alice. This collection was a wonderful way of seeing through the looking glass where intrigue and madness is found in many wonderful ways. Wang's look was focused on intricate bodice construction and layering of airy fabrics - opaque, transparent, piqued, otherwise perforated - cut and crafted with incredible attention to detail. There were references of couture and sports alike. Some looks were manipulated in 18th-century wallpaper that Wang called "trippy," and in the diaphanous cutaway-skirt motif.
Apart from the lovely, pastel and gentle gray palette the collection had quite a few beauties and overall was delightfully exquisite. This collection could have been shown in Paris. It had the quality and creative impact that I look for in the collections in Paris. I think that Alice would agree.
Tory Burch showed a collection full of Twenties charm. She was inspired by seeing the play "Gatz" (a marathon reading of "The Great Gatsby"), Picasso's "The Bathers", and Jaques Henri Larigue's photographs of Deauville. The roaring twenties proved to be a great influence and created quite a diversity of wearable clothes that could be mixed or matched without any difficulty. The colors centered mostly in seafoam green and corals, with light floral patterns to enhance the feminine feel. For day she teamed looks such as a gold lamésweaters with chiffon and lame skirts. She certainly turned up the volume cocktail and evening range, with sequined tops and dresses in a blue and white wave pattern, and flowing silk chiffon dresses.
I enjoyed seeing this collection because it was a great way to see how a creative play of prints and fabrics were done and Burch certainly did an impressive job. Since she opened her Madison Avenue flagship store she has so much more to offer now from day to evening, including her fun bags.
Tory Burch is expanding and moving forward day by day and she is doing a great job.
For this spring Mark Badgley and James Mischka produced a collection full of flourishes such as ruffles, oversize bows, and peplums. Their Badgley Mischka, Couture and Mark + James collections were very Southern Belle according to WWD (indeed, it was). I thought that it was feminine with a twist of glamour. There were brocade sheaths and mattelissé gowns, all with yards of tiers and peplums.the magenta gazar sheath, the pale green floral printed gown, and the shantung dress with a boldly draped neckline and peplum-waisted pencil skirt were quite lovely. Jackets and shorts were playful with sequins and added a sporty slant to the show. Even though the collections were combined, the presentation looked quite disjointed as a result. Badgley and Mischka were at their best with the last two georgette gowns that floated down the runway: one in blush tiers, the other, nude and embroidered. These boys are definitely your go-to for spring.
This collection by Sophie Theallet was an amazing statement of couture in New York. I say couture because of Theallet's training at Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier. The inspiration is from the 1969 film "La Piscine" which projected sexual tension and bold color. The lineup opened with a group of noticeable short or floor-duster dresses that revealed a bit of skin. There were some bold prints on graphic and another had tulips. The blousy satin dresses showed a freedom that was elegant and sensual. Theallet has a remarkable touch with her craftsmanship and proves that she makes clothes that is fit for a woman of any body type. She is truly a couturier at heart. Remarkable.
What a hell of a T&A Betsey Johnson collection! The show opened with daughter Lulu who wore a sexy, fitted gown that pushed up her boobs and set the runway on fire. This sure set the tone for what walked down the runway. A black bustier matched with leopard print pants, a baby pink cropped T-shirt with frilly slip skirt, to the complete head to toe spangled silver dress were all enough to set a man on fire, so to speak. Johnson sure dished it out and at the end she cartwheeled down the runway past her grand daughters and Nicki Minaj. Betsey, you make us smile back at you!
The Sixties was a big influence in the Alice + Olivia spring collection. A secret garden set the stage for the colorful and playful presentation. This was a collection of youthful ensembles that can satisfy a fashionista's wardrobe. Stacy Bendet really knows her costumer and is doing pretty well.
Alice + Olivia
Spring/Summer 2012
I was impressed by Giullietta, a collection designed by Sofia Sizzi that was inspired by a Veroushka shoot in a 1968 Vogue issue. This was her second outing and I was glad to see the retro looks done in fresh and updated ways that created an elegant and streamlined collection.
Giulietta
Spring/Summer 2012
Bibhu Mohapatra went to a recent Berlin exhibition of Helmut Newton Polaroids from the Seventies and Eighties which inspired him to create a sensual and sophisticated collection. He sought to make "skin the embellishment" playing with sheer panels on some ensembles. Tailored suits, sheer blouses, and plenty of polished dresses were present. His column dresses were embroidered and pleated. The chain print added a hard edge to his lady like dresses. This was a nice and enjoyable exhibition of clothes.
Beginnings is what Diane von Furstenberg called her collection. She thought this was appropriate for the 10th anniversary of 9/11. "It is about what I can do and how light changes everything. I did something I've never done before. I started with white." She opened with a beautiful reinvention of her signature wrap circle skirt dress, not in her signature slinky jersey, but in a crisp cotton for a shirtdress with a full circle skirt that appeared to be tied on. The collection was inspired by Africa. "Not the colonial Africa and not Africa safari, but Africa of today." I have to say that I was so impressed and felt a sense of joy watching her collection. It was full of white, cool lime green, powder blue and some violet and the prints gave my eyes joy.. There were a combination of layering that were done in a beautiful and new ways that gave the ensembles a fresh, sensual and elegant look. Yes, there was an elegant theme throughout and I believe many women will be shopping for some DVFclothes for spring without a doubt! How can one resist?
With all the prints being presented for this spring season, Victoria Beckham showed a collection with colors that were predominantly black, navy and white in the beginning with a spot of vibrant orange. There were some structuring of shapes and fabrics with some color blocking. When she went softer, it was with pleated crepe skirts attached externally to techno-stretch bodices. The lines went from curvaceous to easy and lengths were long and short. Her outerwear were shown in beautiful iridescent shades of lilac, blue and gray. Hoods, drawstring and tapes of the athletic vernacular were worn over crisp short dresses that flashed a sportswear vibe. Will Beckham consider putting in sportswear in her line? She is noncommittal, but you never know.
Prabal Gurung designed a collection that had a lot going on. Prints left a big impression. A series of photographs titled "Sensual Flowers" by the Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki, inspired Gurung's engineered prints in shades of purple, teal, and black. Piping, splicing, sheer tulle, and harnesses were sometimes put together all in one garment and were the details that were the thread through the entire collection in some of the other garments. Now, those distinctive prints where on the front of georgette dresses, the patterns matching up like Rorschach images. They looked similar like the prints Alexander McQueen used in his "Atlantis" collection. Gurung's prints were less aggressive than McQueen's yet they were beautifully rendered and had impact. Gurung pushed himself with this collection and even though there were excess in details, he maintained a young aesthetic. After years in Bill Blass, Gurung burst into the scene. And you know what? He is doing great because he pushes himself and continues to evolve.
Derek Lam was inspired by Richard Neutra, Palm Springs and the Rat Pack. Sleek and architectural ensembles walked down the runway with some sunny desert colors and some retro men's look. The show was mostly about an American look that was modern and had a nice snappy and crisp ambiance threading throughout the entire collection. The symmetrical prints were sharp and had a wonderful Pucci-esque feel to them. Towards the end of the presentation there were some simple, elegant fashion forward jumpsuits that were one of the best for this Spring 2012 season. Lam certainly knows American design and he does it well.
There is a streamline and sportiness to Monique Lhullier this spring. Looks that were body conscious, minimal, had a fine sense of youthfulness and some bold colors that was playful. This was not her usual red carpet fanfare that she shows often. There were some trompe l'oeil dresses that had a nice optical illusion touch with either lace or sequins. A splatter print trench showed her spunky spirit. Leather and lace were seen on some garments as inserts, adding a nice modern twist to some simple looks. This was definitely a collection that showed that Lhullier was experimenting and it all worked out just fine.
Ruffian's Brian Wolk says "Our spring girl rides by day and cocktails by night. So he and Claude Morais went for a jockey them throughout much of the collection. Lots of black and white until things picked up with some red and fuchsia. High point is that there are some great tailoring for evening. Antonio Azzulo's A.A. presentation was hit with a high note when Anna Wintour dropped by to see the work of the latest CFDA Incubator winners. There were some tailored looks, Seventies YSL style, jackets and ties with pants. Finally, the result was a well executed collection. Cynthia Rowley had a collection that was a bit all over the place. Her flirty dresses kept things in balance, yet the stiff bonded pieces, especially the zigzag or botanical print pants were not flattering to the eye. If she just kept her Rowley lighter touch, she would have been right on track with her vision. L.A.M.B showed and Gwen Estefani was not there. Maxidresses were center stage in oversized ikat print, military inspired jackets and cargo pants. There were also flared mini skirts and drapy knits, which were all fun. Tracy Reese must have felt really leisurely this time. Lots of her signature girlish frocks and ensembles perfect for the seaside or some relaxed walks in the park. Her bohemian flare was definitely present. Even though there were some nice ensembles here, the collection had some random ideas that could have been edited to present a more cohesive message.
Daryl K has been existing for 20 years. She usually works with her black and white aesthetic, but for spring in a collaboration with Spencer Sweeny, there were some vibrant, abstract prints. The "jumpdress" came out of this collection. It was refreshing and had energy.
Daryl K
Spring/Summer 2012
Adam Lippes was inspired by the High Line Park, which he can see from his studio window. The collection was charming and focused on bright colors, bold prints and flirty shapes. There was a girly vibe with the help of some floral dresses and ivory linen versions with embroidered lace panels, as well as short skirts and cropped pants rendered in floral -printed denim and delicately sheer coats. This collection was modern and had a bit of savvy.
Adam
Spring/Summer 2012
DKNY should be spelled CHIC. It was effortless chic. Full of long flowy silhouettes, neutral colors (cream, black, navy, tan) and brights (royal blue, red, hot pink), head to toe looks either monochromatic or in print, and some tailored looks. Yes. This is CHIC spelled DKNY.
John Hartig mostly left out color for the Libertine collection for Spring/Summer 2012 and presented clothes with graphic prints in black and white. There were some tongue-in-cheek T-shirts and a skirt with the phrase "Tax the rich more." The clothes were quite appealing and included a playful spirit such as the splattering of x's and o's and circle and stripe prints. Keep it coming, Libertine!
Libertine
Spring/Summer 2012
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty created a pretty Suno collection that was chic and prefect for the Spring and Summer season for 2012. Cotton lace, polka dots, stripes, florals, and metallics were featured. Looks like Osterweis and Beatty had a fun time designing for this collection. It shows!
Suno
Spring/Summer 2012
They are committed in making beautiful clothes while developing trade with Africa. Ali Hewson and her husband, Bono, believe that style should have substance. For Edun's collection there is a mixture of African prints mixed with florals. There are grommets on pants, laser-cut jumpsuits and sexy dresses. This is definitely a wearable collection that many women would enjoy for Spring/Summer 2012.
This is a collection that was extremely potent with elegance and sophistication and a wonderful modernity that Carolina Herrera designed for Spring/Summer 2012. She was inspired by Bauhaus and it's influence in art, fashion, interiors, lifestyle, colors and shapes. The clothes were delivered in lines, blocks and stripes and various geometric renderings. The beautiful bird prints on her dresses and separates were quite charming. The colors are inspired by Bakelite bracelets. Her signature staples are present in this collection which, of course, can not do without. Her evening wear in a splendor that is to die for or to live for. Her vision for evening all constructed and fluid was a treat and I could not have taken my eyes off of it as the elegance of it captured my attention.
Carolina Herrera is truly a master of classic style and constantly keeps designing collections that are modern and fresh.
Donna Karan loves Haiti. She spends a great deal of time there and channels her philanthropic efforts there. For this season she was inspired by Haiti. According to her notes she is constantly inspired by her passions.
Her passions were indeed expressed. The collection had well made clothes that had tribal motifs, some graphic configurations that some had studs outlining them, and some prints. The colors in this collection were muddy and drab in the sense that white, black and mud brown were dominant. There were a citrus green and tangerine dresses for evening that did not do the trick to add some life to the color pallet of the collection. Again, this collection was well made and had the commercial clout, but the colors did not do the trick.
The Plaza Hotel was where Thakoon Panichgul's Spring/Summer Collection show took place. This was a wonderful presentation that showed a mixture of references and cultures mixed together brilliantly. It was India mixed with Marie Antoinette in colors that were bright, and there were prints and paisleys that were mixed with some lace and embroideries. Thakoon mixed Indian looks with American sportswear ideas and his mission was accomplished. This colliding of different worlds was effortless for Thakoon to make into a brilliant fashion cocktail of looks.
After showing a couple of times in Paris, Zac Posen came back home to New York and showed an extremely modern, sophisticated, glamorous collection that one cannot resist. There was no gimmick and there was no forcing in making any kind of statement. In fact the statement that Posen made was effortless.
For this season there is a focus on construction and an experimentation in color and shapes. Embroidery and cording is present throughout and the clever details were on point. One spectacular dress after another came out and they all certainly caught the attention of everyone in the room.
A feast of potential red carpet gowns are imminent. Stylists! Get cracking for the next award season!!
Zac Posen, congratulations and welcome home! You made a great point with your collection and did an amazing job!
Just seeing the collection by Thom Browne, it kept me wondering what will come up after the first garment came out. The show was set up in the Edna Barnes Salomon Room of the New York Public Library, looking much like the Twenties with some nice furniture. A gray haired lady hosted a party that took place in the set up. Models wore a silhouette that was lean and long, broad and wide shouldered, with layerings of jackets, textures and fabrics. A really weird show and interesting at the same time.
Thom Browne
Spring/Summer 2012
Drawing inspiration from the Baja Californian desert and Luis Barraga's poetic use of color such as rust, sand, dusty rose and light blue, Rebecca Minkoff showed a collection that has a lot to offer. Shorts, flyaway handkerchief hems, flowing dresses and skirts with uneven hems, were present. The collection was heavy on abstract prints layered in flowing chiffon pieces. If Minkoff edited her collection a bit, it would have been a more focused one.
Rebecca Minkoff
Spring/Summer 2012
Chritian Siriano is the most successful "Project Runway" winner by far. This collection was focused entirely on cocktail and evening wear. He went from T-shirts worn with ball skirts to big poufs that were kind of silly. He did go a bit more commercial with his collection. He just has to make clothes that are a bit more wearable and move away from some of the way things are made on reality TV.
Christian Siriano
Spring/Summer 2012
Although there is such a variety of talent in New York, these designers are all doing what they do best at daring to create new silhouettes and textures. This is what is keeping New York designers interesting because they are not afraid to take a risk.
Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi chose Virginia Woolf as their muse and inspiration. It certainly did not make anyone afraid of her in this case. Beautiful sorbet colors, great crochet lace dresses with frilly collars layered over slips, cutaway jackets, pixilated floral prints blown out to resemble a grid on pencil skirts, all were included to make Preen a pretty lady like lineup.
Preen
Spring/Summer 2012
Chris Benz piled on prints together with with color blocks and stripes. Sixties and Seventies come into play with some of the motifs and having jackets in photographic images of flower buds and slouchy pants in an oversized graphic are all a lot to take in and it was Benz's intention and it was fun and made some people become fans.
Chris Benz
Spring/Summer 2012
A lightness of a collection from Flora Gill and Alexa Adams. At Ohne Titel here were soft shapes and volumes with a wonderful feminine sportswear flair. Knit herringbone and graphic patterns were quite the detail as for the bright colors that were mixed with pale neutrals. Gill and Adams intend to grow their business and are serious about it. Looks were commercial from sexy to easy. Their first shoe collection comes out in spring. Wonderful!
Ohne Titel
Spring/Summer 2012
Chris Peters and Shane Gabier of Creatures of the Wind did an amazing job in presenting a wonderful lineup that never bored the eye of fashion. The pieces are all unique because they had a modern psychedelic view in details and the patchwork of fabrics. Just watch the video and listen to them and you will understand more of their point of view which totally can be seen and heard.
Creatures in the Wind
Spring/Summer 2012
Such amazing creativity is to be had at these presentations. What wonderful results. And all from the inspirations that come from wonderful places for these designers.
One of the first shows in New York were impressive. Kimberly Ovits set the tone for beautiful fluid and wearable clothing that is perfect for any body type for any woman. The inspiration came after the Japanese earthquake which mixed with the idea of disaster versus relief and man versus nature. Paper thin knits, drapery and assemetry play a part in this collection which was truly wonderful.
Kimberly Ovits
Spring/Summer 2012
There were some wonderful looks at Cushnie et Ochs. The collection was just well executed throughout. I loved seeing the sheaths in wonderful colors like lemon, pink, peach, white and black. There were some some flared skirts that were playful as well as sexy and some of them were pared with blazers over shirts. One thing that was distracting were those clunky, shiny peplums that distracted from the strong looks. For the rest I thought this was one clean and sexy collection with great ideas and great lengths
Cushnie et Ochs
Spring/Summer 2012.
With five seasons in Richard Chai Love is a collection that looks like it was turning more towards streetwear. For Spring he showed both men's and women's together for the first time. A lot of mixing and matching and layering that added a playful energy to the collection.
Richard Chai Love
Spring/Summer 2012
The "active glamour" as the show notes professed seemed to have been channeled. BCBG Max Azaria was a fluid collection that was relaxing and quite a breeze. Max and Lubov Azaria played with color blocking and neons. The dresses were intricate and complicated by splicing, panels, piping and cutouts all done in contrasting colors and tribal patterns. Just having at least one or more of these outfits would be worth having in your closet for Spring/Summer next year...2012.
OK. So I have not been writing about fashion for the past month or so because I was enjoying the summer so much. I took advantage of the sun, the weather and the magnificent out doors. A highlight for me was that I rode my bike from Christopher Street all the way to the George Washington bridge and it was so enjoyable. It was a wonderful ride along the Hudson River Park and the sunset could not have been more beautiful!
So here I am now, back in the mix of the energy of everything fashion and I am constantly diving into the presentations of the collections for Spring/Summer 2012. Fashion's Night Out kicked off on September 8th and it could not have been more alive. The night was full with people running and walking around to their fashion destinations to part take in the fashion festivities. So, for any of you who missed this wonderful event just come around next year. You will have a fun time! Here is the link if you want to see what will be going on next time. http://fashionsnightout.com/
Finally, this year there seems to be so much going on here during New York Fashion Week. And as far as collections, there are 20 or more presentations a day. Some collections were absolutely sublime and there were others that were totally boring or just bad. I am glad to see a lot of new young designers showing. Some of them are really promising. Other designers who did not well as far as creativity and cohesiveness last season, did much better this season. And then, of course there are the designers who have been around for quite some time, who knocked the ball out of the park and I am sure you know which designers I mean.
For this Spring/Summer 2012 season, since there are so many presentations a day (again, twenty or more), I will be writing about the ones that really stood out for the day. Down the line I will write about those new young talents whose collections were really a delight and who I am looking forward to their next collection.
So there you have it. I am now on a roll, ready to do my thing and to give you my thoughts and information of the best of New York. I trust all of you have had a wonderful summer this year and I hope you are still enjoying the warm days we have left over before the fall temperatures really start kicking in.
