This was a hell of an exquisite collection. It took my breath away. I remember how Ralph Rucci makes the most wearable collections that have a most couture touch and quality to them yet making them accessible to any woman. The fabrics and the workmanship are truly splendid. There was a subtle approch which includes the plastic insets. The layers had a gentle touch as well and the embroidery and embellishments never overpowered any of the sihouettes. For the most part, insets and dramatic seaming had a light touch. There seemed to be some fun woth some details such as the white longcoat with playful black circles. This collection was pretty strong because of its restraint as well as its execution shown in the gorgeous gowns. Rucci always delivers extraordinary clothes that can make anyone feel abundant, prosperous and elegant.
This season Anna Sui was on trend with the prints and retro look. This collection looked pretty fresh. The inspiration is famed fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez and his time in Paris in the Seventies. What was enjoyable was the Forties vibe featuring the feather chubbies, bow blouses with flouncy skirts, and jumpsuits worn with matching turbans and socks with striped Hush Puppies. The prints were stars and bows, to flowers and fairies, to chickens and rabbits, and graced the clothes to all manners and accessories. Girly looks from lacy tap pants, sheer midriffs, swingy skirts and even a big plastic heart on a chain. This is a collection that was entirely wearable and fun. Why not have fun this coming this spring? Laugh a little! Be fun!
The inspiration was the Baroque style of Dorothy Draper. The ideas of the interior decorator's sensibility was infused into the J.Mendel collection. There was color blocking, printed and paneled dresses that were loosely belted at the waist and featured details such as pleating or revealing vents. Fabulous column gowns, many with sequined embroidery, plunging necklines and high slits for added sex appeal. Of course there were the furs that the house of J.Mendel is known for. Done in mink, goat and alpaca had a cloudlike effect, appearing on small boleros and vests. There were some designs that had no steam such as the dresses with the cutaway hemlines, but despite of this, Mendel designed a collection that turned out great for spring.
Reed Krakoff is one of the most successful creative heads in the industry admired and respected around the world for his contributions at Coach. In the two years that he has gotten into sportswear he has dealt with growing pains that are truly essential to his craft. This season displays a wonderful feminine take by using colors like yellow, orange and nude, and chiffon and lightweight leathers that added a more fluid touch to the lineup. Using cellophane for pleated skirts and panel dresses showed that he had a willingness to experiment. The fresh perspective that he offered on the print trend for the season were his abstract eagle motifs on silk jacquard and leather designs. More wearable clothes were created this time around than in the past and the process of his growth is having Krakoff get more clearer with his message.
Looking forward to seeing what he will come up with for Fall/Winter 2012!
"The Great Gatsby" speaks through Alberta Ferretti who created a wonderful lineup of beautifully executed dresses that were all breathtaking in more ways than one. She is known for her mastery over tulle and chiffon, she reworked the materials in a stunning effect with intricate beading and embroideries on pastel-hued dropwaisted dresses, below the knee or longer, and layered over silk slips, that could double as stand-alone pieces. There were a few cable-knit swearers with subtle silver metallic coating that added a nice sportif element that added to the Gatsby spirit. The dresses in this collection are true gems if you are ecer invited to a "Great Gatsby" party or to any award after-party coming up. Ferretti listened well to the inspiration she received this time around and delivered.
After seeing a whole lot of rich over-the-top prints and loud color combos it is Phillip Lim that calmed things down with his sorbet colors such as ivory peach, pink and yellow with silhouettes that were quite soothing. There were loose blousy razor back tanks and lanky track pants that zipped on the sides that concealed or revealed a stripe. A layering and exploring asymmetric cuts and splicing garments in half displayed some examples of how breezy these garments can be. Kites were the source of his inspiration thus showing a hint of serenity in small doses. I enjoyed the minimalism in this collection and I think many people will too.
Amy Smilovic went for a cleaned-up minimalist and purist look for her latest Tibi collection. This is giving those that are looking for quieter alternatives to the sea of prints that will flood the stores next spring. She offered flowing dresses, ensembles that are relaxed in fit, and the color palette was pleasing to the eye - mint and salmon for soft hues. The white-brocade motif applied to green and black color block looks, had a graphic feel that worked nicely with the rest of this strong lineup.
Tibi
Spring/Summer 2012
Ronald Shamask
Shamask has been around all this time. Only this time he returned to show business with a collection that was a blend of great fabrics, color, geometry and assemetry that blends art and commerce. There were clever details that add nice touches that do not distract. Swingy dresses and leathers added some grace to this collection. Shamask is back and many are really glad that he presented a nice Spring/Summer collection.
Threeasfour is the trio that consists of Adi Gil, Gabi Asfour and Angela Donhauser and they created a collection that shows that they enjoy pushing boundaries. In this case it is inspiration. Their beautiful Middle Eastern line up explored the idea of unity and friendship as it relates to multiculturalism. The setting of their show took place in St. Patrick's old Cathedral and was a display of beautiful lightweight fabrics, cutaway coats, flowing cotton dresses, many with a Jewish star print, and the controversial Muslim Keffiyeh scarves draped around necks. These clothes were not only beautiful but also wearable.
Threeasfour
Spring/Summer 2012
There were so many beautiful dresses and there was everything but the kitchen sink. Naeem Khan is a designer who has years of experience in eveningwear and has a loyal clientele which includes the First Lady, Michelle Obama. The collection lacked continuity in a big way. Anything that you are looking for, he's got it. I am not sure which direction he was going with his designs, yet they were beautiful.
Naeem Khan
Spring/Summer 2012
When there is a combination of Ancient Egypt - the land of gods and goddesses, Pharaohs and a very majestic Cleopatra, the result is a collection that is well polished and Elie Tahari followed these guiding inspirations. There were gold mesh dresses and skirts, delicate harem pants, a fine python print for casual trousers and sheer pleating details. Gold embroidery on linen jackets and accessories like tasseled belts enhanced the rich feel of the clothes, while slightly faded hues added a casual elegant element to the collection. Tahari produced a fine collection that will do well for this coming spring.
An art collection of U.S. Olympic athletes at the most recent Venice Biennale was the inspiration for Nanette Lepore. There was an athletic vibe in her very feminine collection that was washed with bright neon colors. She played with structures and proportions such as jackets with peplum, polished buttoned-up shirts and sexy cropped tops which were all paired with full circle skirts. What stood out really strongly were the neon colors - shades of citron, tangerine and hibiscus pink - all providing a joyful and youthful energetic flair.
Douglas Hannant designed a collection that was young and lady like with a touch of sport. This collection will bring in new followers in addition to his old ones. There were some beautiful blouses, sexy knit dresses, and pretty cocktail dresses. This is such a fresh collection and is worth having a peek to pick a spring outfit.
Michelle Smith put forth a show with geometric prints, zigzag patterns, electric colors, color blocking in beautiful linear shapes and looks. This entire line is done in a very clever way that there were no mistakes in any color or print combination at all. Artist Sonia Delaunay is the inspiration for this designer's vision for Spring /Summer 2012 and there will be no resisting a design from Milly by Michelle Smith.
When I saw the first look turn the corner and then walk down the runway I knew what to expect for this collection by Oscar de la Renta. This was a collection of beauty and exuberance that really demnstrated the exquisite vision that de la Renta had for Spring/Summer 2012. There was something not only for a certain kind of woman but for every type of woman. This is for the proper ladies, debutantes, the sex pot, even for the kind of woman who has a bohemian streak. The embellishments were rich and lavish: airy organza appliques, to sassy allover tassels and major sequins encrustations. Crochet and lace was throughout and the beautiful evening gowns were to salivate over.
I especially loved this pastel pink feathered column dress that effortlessly floated down the runway. It was fantastic!
Oscar still has the elegant touch and it is never to be underestimated!
The Mulleavy sisters are now at the point of an ongoing challenge of merging the commercial and artistic endeavors. It is quite wonderful to see how far they have gotten. Each time they show their collection it is so obvious how they think out of the box and push the limits of using color, textures and shapes fearlessly, thus creating collections that look modern, artistic and feminine. This Rodarte collection bore the evidence of a desire to be more commercial while protecting the artistry at the core of their work.
Inspired by Van Gogh - his sunflowers, swirls of stars, brushstrokes and vibrant colors - the clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, contsruction and fantastical gowns. Off-the-shoulder dresses that were draped at the shoulders in a floral-print are true and feminine. A structured cocktail dress with a dropped waist and folded circle skirt looked new. A beautiful gown of iridescent seafoam tulle in sunflower embroidery was a treasure. What could not be seen is the internal construction. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure. The designers' fixation on craft was apparent on some of the frocks. In the mix were tapered, cropped pants, tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters that would be a feast for retailers.
I think that this collection would put a smile on Van Gogh's face. It sure put a smile on mine.
When designers are experimenting, evaluating and even challenging themselves there is an amazing artistic result that manifests from this process. This spring it is no wonder that Vera Wang named her collection for spring after Alice. This collection was a wonderful way of seeing through the looking glass where intrigue and madness is found in many wonderful ways. Wang's look was focused on intricate bodice construction and layering of airy fabrics - opaque, transparent, piqued, otherwise perforated - cut and crafted with incredible attention to detail. There were references of couture and sports alike. Some looks were manipulated in 18th-century wallpaper that Wang called "trippy," and in the diaphanous cutaway-skirt motif.
Apart from the lovely, pastel and gentle gray palette the collection had quite a few beauties and overall was delightfully exquisite. This collection could have been shown in Paris. It had the quality and creative impact that I look for in the collections in Paris. I think that Alice would agree.
I enjoyed seeing this collection because it was a great way to see how a creative play of prints and fabrics were done and Burch certainly did an impressive job. Since she opened her Madison Avenue flagship store she has so much more to offer now from day to evening, including her fun bags.
Tory Burch is expanding and moving forward day by day and she is doing a great job.
This collection by Sophie Theallet was an amazing statement of couture in New York. I say couture because of Theallet's training at Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier. The inspiration is from the 1969 film "La Piscine" which projected sexual tension and bold color. The lineup opened with a group of noticeable short or floor-duster dresses that revealed a bit of skin. There were some bold prints on graphic and another had tulips. The blousy satin dresses showed a freedom that was elegant and sensual. Theallet has a remarkable touch with her craftsmanship and proves that she makes clothes that is fit for a woman of any body type. She is truly a couturier at heart. Remarkable.
What a hell of a T&A Betsey Johnson collection! The show opened with daughter Lulu who wore a sexy, fitted gown that pushed up her boobs and set the runway on fire. This sure set the tone for what walked down the runway. A black bustier matched with leopard print pants, a baby pink cropped T-shirt with frilly slip skirt, to the complete head to toe spangled silver dress were all enough to set a man on fire, so to speak. Johnson sure dished it out and at the end she cartwheeled down the runway past her grand daughters and Nicki Minaj. Betsey, you make us smile back at you!
The Sixties was a big influence in the Alice + Olivia spring collection. A secret garden set the stage for the colorful and playful presentation. This was a collection of youthful ensembles that can satisfy a fashionista's wardrobe. Stacy Bendet really knows her costumer and is doing pretty well.
Alice + Olivia
Spring/Summer 2012
I was impressed by Giullietta, a collection designed by Sofia Sizzi that was inspired by a Veroushka shoot in a 1968 Vogue issue. This was her second outing and I was glad to see the retro looks done in fresh and updated ways that created an elegant and streamlined collection.
Giulietta
Spring/Summer 2012
Bibhu Mohapatra went to a recent Berlin exhibition of Helmut Newton Polaroids from the Seventies and Eighties which inspired him to create a sensual and sophisticated collection. He sought to make "skin the embellishment" playing with sheer panels on some ensembles. Tailored suits, sheer blouses, and plenty of polished dresses were present. His column dresses were embroidered and pleated. The chain print added a hard edge to his lady like dresses. This was a nice and enjoyable exhibition of clothes.
Beginnings is what Diane von Furstenberg called her collection. She thought this was appropriate for the 10th anniversary of 9/11. "It is about what I can do and how light changes everything. I did something I've never done before. I started with white." She opened with a beautiful reinvention of her signature wrap circle skirt dress, not in her signature slinky jersey, but in a crisp cotton for a shirtdress with a full circle skirt that appeared to be tied on. The collection was inspired by Africa. "Not the colonial Africa and not Africa safari, but Africa of today." I have to say that I was so impressed and felt a sense of joy watching her collection. It was full of white, cool lime green, powder blue and some violet and the prints gave my eyes joy.. There were a combination of layering that were done in a beautiful and new ways that gave the ensembles a fresh, sensual and elegant look. Yes, there was an elegant theme throughout and I believe many women will be shopping for some DVFclothes for spring without a doubt! How can one resist?
With all the prints being presented for this spring season, Victoria Beckham showed a collection with colors that were predominantly black, navy and white in the beginning with a spot of vibrant orange. There were some structuring of shapes and fabrics with some color blocking. When she went softer, it was with pleated crepe skirts attached externally to techno-stretch bodices. The lines went from curvaceous to easy and lengths were long and short. Her outerwear were shown in beautiful iridescent shades of lilac, blue and gray. Hoods, drawstring and tapes of the athletic vernacular were worn over crisp short dresses that flashed a sportswear vibe. Will Beckham consider putting in sportswear in her line? She is noncommittal, but you never know.
Prabal Gurung designed a collection that had a lot going on. Prints left a big impression. A series of photographs titled "Sensual Flowers" by the Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki, inspired Gurung's engineered prints in shades of purple, teal, and black. Piping, splicing, sheer tulle, and harnesses were sometimes put together all in one garment and were the details that were the thread through the entire collection in some of the other garments. Now, those distinctive prints where on the front of georgette dresses, the patterns matching up like Rorschach images. They looked similar like the prints Alexander McQueen used in his "Atlantis" collection. Gurung's prints were less aggressive than McQueen's yet they were beautifully rendered and had impact. Gurung pushed himself with this collection and even though there were excess in details, he maintained a young aesthetic. After years in Bill Blass, Gurung burst into the scene. And you know what? He is doing great because he pushes himself and continues to evolve.
Derek Lam was inspired by Richard Neutra, Palm Springs and the Rat Pack. Sleek and architectural ensembles walked down the runway with some sunny desert colors and some retro men's look. The show was mostly about an American look that was modern and had a nice snappy and crisp ambiance threading throughout the entire collection. The symmetrical prints were sharp and had a wonderful Pucci-esque feel to them. Towards the end of the presentation there were some simple, elegant fashion forward jumpsuits that were one of the best for this Spring 2012 season. Lam certainly knows American design and he does it well.
There is a streamline and sportiness to Monique Lhullier this spring. Looks that were body conscious, minimal, had a fine sense of youthfulness and some bold colors that was playful. This was not her usual red carpet fanfare that she shows often. There were some trompe l'oeil dresses that had a nice optical illusion touch with either lace or sequins. A splatter print trench showed her spunky spirit. Leather and lace were seen on some garments as inserts, adding a nice modern twist to some simple looks. This was definitely a collection that showed that Lhullier was experimenting and it all worked out just fine.
Ruffian's Brian Wolk says "Our spring girl rides by day and cocktails by night. So he and Claude Morais went for a jockey them throughout much of the collection. Lots of black and white until things picked up with some red and fuchsia. High point is that there are some great tailoring for evening. Antonio Azzulo's A.A. presentation was hit with a high note when Anna Wintour dropped by to see the work of the latest CFDA Incubator winners. There were some tailored looks, Seventies YSL style, jackets and ties with pants. Finally, the result was a well executed collection. Cynthia Rowley had a collection that was a bit all over the place. Her flirty dresses kept things in balance, yet the stiff bonded pieces, especially the zigzag or botanical print pants were not flattering to the eye. If she just kept her Rowley lighter touch, she would have been right on track with her vision. L.A.M.B showed and Gwen Estefani was not there. Maxidresses were center stage in oversized ikat print, military inspired jackets and cargo pants. There were also flared mini skirts and drapy knits, which were all fun. Tracy Reese must have felt really leisurely this time. Lots of her signature girlish frocks and ensembles perfect for the seaside or some relaxed walks in the park. Her bohemian flare was definitely present. Even though there were some nice ensembles here, the collection had some random ideas that could have been edited to present a more cohesive message.
Daryl K has been existing for 20 years. She usually works with her black and white aesthetic, but for spring in a collaboration with Spencer Sweeny, there were some vibrant, abstract prints. The "jumpdress" came out of this collection. It was refreshing and had energy.
Daryl K
Spring/Summer 2012
Adam Lippes was inspired by the High Line Park, which he can see from his studio window. The collection was charming and focused on bright colors, bold prints and flirty shapes. There was a girly vibe with the help of some floral dresses and ivory linen versions with embroidered lace panels, as well as short skirts and cropped pants rendered in floral -printed denim and delicately sheer coats. This collection was modern and had a bit of savvy.
Adam
Spring/Summer 2012
DKNY should be spelled CHIC. It was effortless chic. Full of long flowy silhouettes, neutral colors (cream, black, navy, tan) and brights (royal blue, red, hot pink), head to toe looks either monochromatic or in print, and some tailored looks. Yes. This is CHIC spelled DKNY.
John Hartig mostly left out color for the Libertine collection for Spring/Summer 2012 and presented clothes with graphic prints in black and white. There were some tongue-in-cheek T-shirts and a skirt with the phrase "Tax the rich more." The clothes were quite appealing and included a playful spirit such as the splattering of x's and o's and circle and stripe prints. Keep it coming, Libertine!
Libertine
Spring/Summer 2012
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty created a pretty Suno collection that was chic and prefect for the Spring and Summer season for 2012. Cotton lace, polka dots, stripes, florals, and metallics were featured. Looks like Osterweis and Beatty had a fun time designing for this collection. It shows!
Suno
Spring/Summer 2012
They are committed in making beautiful clothes while developing trade with Africa. Ali Hewson and her husband, Bono, believe that style should have substance. For Edun's collection there is a mixture of African prints mixed with florals. There are grommets on pants, laser-cut jumpsuits and sexy dresses. This is definitely a wearable collection that many women would enjoy for Spring/Summer 2012.
