Peter Pilotto Spring 2013

There seems to be a competition among the designers of print in London and the design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos certainly met up with a challenge with a collection with 3-D embroideries, beading and cutouts to their digitally generated patterns.

The shapes were interesting with undulating peplums, tiered ruffles and jutting panierlike extensions on sleeves and skirts. It kept ones attention yet seemed to be a tad bit of balance. The collection was quite inventive and well executed. even though it was a bit heavy handed and busy. The simplest short dresses were great with short kimono like sleeves and graphic necklines that exalted the prints, rather than overwhelming them.

Pilotto and Vos definitely know how to cut a feminine clothes that are flattering and striking. In previous collections one can see that this is so. This time around they did the same but they only needed to find a balance. They can do this and I am sure they will. I always love seeing their collections because they are, in my eyes, stunning and I love the way they put prints together and make them work in all kinds of silhouettes. Peter Pilotto is worth viewing any season of the year. I recommend you view their collections as well, when you can. It is worth it.

Peter Pilotto

Spring/Summer

2013

Issa London Spring/Summer 2013 is Tropically Divine!

This Issa London collection by Daniella Helayel was blazing on the runway with tropical colors and sexy silhouettes that had Seventies touches fit for breezy walks on the beach or for cocktails after your swim. All the models look gorgeous with orchids in their hair and they had on caftans that came in hot pink, and tangerine.

Helayel's jumpsuits are always divine and came in tropical colors as well as a parrot print. The long silk dresses, some with halter necklines, came in rich colors such as purple. emerald, yellow and royal blue. There were swingy dresses with deep V-necks that came in acid green or hot pink perfect for a day trip into town.

The beautiful white halter dresses with exaggerated orchids handpainted on the hems were impressive and perfect for a tropical evening for cocktails and dinner.
Breezy, sexy and beautiful is how I can sum it up for this fine collection. Always a pleasure to see what  Issa London has in store for every spring season.

Issa London

Spring/Summer

2013

Temperly London Spring/Summer Sirens for 2013.

The show opened with a wonderful column dress that had a red bodice and striped skirt, made with wide ribbons appliquéd onto the fabric which set the tone for what Temperly London has to offer for this spring and summer season.

Alice Temperly designed a collection of which she was inspired by screen sirens, specifically Sophia Loren whose sexy figure and magnetic allure have always captivated the world. Intricate patterns of Moorish tiles made her glamorous dresses eye catchers. The silhouettes were inspired by Dior's New Look and there were a good number of full skirts and saucerlike hats. Appliqué played a marvelous role as special details added to fine silk mesh blouses and full skirts.

Temperly's evening wear was beautifully crafted in delicate ivory and pale blue wild Morocco art showed up in digital prints which were looking good on silk wide trousers worn with a matching top. Some beading and embroideries added special touches and the sophisticated black ensembles were fetching.

Temperly London is all about mix and matching and offering special pieces, as well as making and crafting clothes in a way that they are supposed to be crafted. This is great to see because no art of making high end clothes should be lost. It should be utilized always and forever because most people highly appreciate it. That is a relief to know. Thank you for the beautiful collection, Temperly London!

Temperly London

Spring/Summer

2013

Christopher Kane Channels Frankenstein for Spring/Summer 2013

Christopher Kane made Frankenstein known for this spring season. The bolts and wing nuts made in acrylic were the signature details for this clean and creative collection. They clamped the shoulder straps of ladylike luncheon suits, pierced the bows festooning the front of a cocktail dress and anchored the slits on a narrow skirt.

The stiff biker jackets were a shock of stimulating fashion that were made of embossed leather that opened the show and a cocktail dress dotted with rectangular bows. Adorable were the experimental rubbery bows pieced together into clunky cardigan jackets and narrow skirts. There were bits of lace and beading that were pasted beautifully on silk gazar coats and dresses with black electrical tape.

Experiments and innovation is the current flowing through out this collection. Christopher Kane, a designer who puts himself to the task to have ones eye look at his designs and be stimulated by the details in his designs, leaving an impression in ones mind. Now that is clever design.

Christopher Kane

Spring/Summer

2013

Tom Ford Spring 2013 Stimulates and is Brazen.

Before I go on writing about Tom Ford's spring collection I wanted you all to know that press was not allowed to photograph the collection, as in previous seasons.

Tom Ford is known as a sexy designer. Not that he is only a sexy man but he creates sexy clothes that are tasteful, glamorous and chic. This time for spring he included tough in the mix. There was chastity and perversity that stimulates the curiosity within most people. This means that bondage knots that wrapped up silky tops and dresses were tied with silk cord, and slithery black patent leather skirts were often teamed with roll-neck sweaters or loose, blouson tops.

The collection was not only brazen but often sexy. The glossy patent leather trenchcoats with demonstrative collars in black and nude were stunningly sleek and gorgeous. There were also skin tight pants consisting of tiny strips of cobalt blue leather that gave a tough feminine touch. The slinky gowns that were made up with beaded mesh bands unstitched here and there revealed some leg.

Tom Ford spoke about the perverse elements in the designs, including a swimsuit with a jockstraplike bottom and these sickening metallic heels with zip-on shin guards.

As usual (and I mean it in a good way) Tom Ford has designed for the confident woman who wants to be noticed anywhere. For evening he has created fantastic cocktail dresses and gowns that were made in papery taffeta or liquid jersey with billowing, couture backs.

If these clothes get any woman their attention, then Tom Ford has done his job.

Tom Ford 

Spring/Summer

2013

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2013 is All About Stamps, Money and Swarovski Crystal Mesh.

 

Mary Katrantzou used the theme of world history. She looked at postage stamps which transcend time and space as well as banknotes and their colors, patterns and images and all of the cultural significance that all of them have and created signature prints that she is known for. These prints were presented on white backgrounds and the silhouettes were clean with bold A-line dresses making a big statement.

The  gorgeous evening gowns were made from fabulous Swarovski crystal mesh\ that had been fused to silk brocade and printed in intricate patterns. A couple of trouser suits in navy and pearl were elegantly understated and had an adrogynous appeal yet looked glamorous.

Katrantzou's use of brocade integrated with Swarovski crystal mesh this season took her design abilities to a whole new level. A smart, intelligent designer who is constantly exploring, Katrantzou uses her keen eye and creativity to create masterful clothes and keeps her reputation as master of prints.

For this collection, she highly suggests not to look at the stamps or money in the collection but notice the colors, patterns and the prints and enjoy the beauty of it all. It is worth it. Full stop.

Mary Katrantzou
Spring/Summer
2013

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013 Makes People Smile.

Christopher Bailey made sure that this collection was filled with intense color and shine. He also added flourishes of leather and lace in the mix of all of this as well. At the end of the show Bailey said, "I wanted it playful, sassy and joyous with colors so intense you wring them out."
Right now Bailey is managing in keeping things upbeat. He was asked regarding the recent of a slowdown in worldwide retail sales. "You need to do things that make people smile, to have a point of view. And if you work with integrity and honesty, you can ride out the challenges," he said

The trenches and dresses that were fashioned from emerald green lace, with a jaunty fishtail flair at the hem certainly put smiles on faces. A wonderful curvy dress plastered with teal feathers and a deep pink and red trench also did the trick.

Purple and hot pink fabrics with the look and texture of foil wrappers were cut into a short sleeved shirt or pleated strapless dress. In the meantime, shiny cotton sateen trenches came in shades such as midnight blue, raspberry and acid green.

At times Bailey would hold back from all the color by sending out cool white trenches or Champagne colored ones worn with rose gold capelets.
The collection was packed with tiny capes that hit midway down the arm which is a bit tricky and longer ones which had a more grown up sensibility.

The finale was a parade of shiny trenches in various colors and handbags in hand that made sure the world does not forget what Burberry Prorsum is all about. Christopher Bailey made sure of that and the smiles never disappeared all along, throughout the entire show.

Burberry Prorsum

Spring/Summer

2013

The Evolving Jonathan Saunders Shows Spring/Summer 2013.

This is a collection that Jonathan Saunders created to prove that he can evolve his design talent from  the graphic prints that have become his signature. Not only is he a textile designer but a fabric designer as well and he conveyed the latter in an amazing way this time around.

He decided to go forward in a more seductive vein with looks that reflected the Seventies. What sashayed down the runway were swingy dresses with slashed necklines, done in color-blocked, jewel-toned silks, metallic leather chevron stripes or dense sequins in jade green or deep blue.

Even though Saunders said that he wanted to focus on fabrics rather than prints he still managed to create prints that were more subtle this time around. Silk water drops were appliqued onto a black chiffon slipdress, and a similar motif in ombré shades of blue on a silk t-shirt and trouser combo were clean and colorful.

The sleek pantsuits worn with chiffon and silk triangle bras were sexy and clean. The models had glossy purple lips and mussed up hair that added the subtle Seventies feel.
Jonathan Saunders is no doubt one of London's designers that makes simple look modern, elegant and new. His collections are worth anticipating because of the eye of design he has, for he possesses a real great talent and it shows.

Jonathan Saunders

Spring/Summer

2013

Marios Schwab Spring 2013 is Native American Chic.

Marios Schwab said because the world is so obsessed with digital technology, he would like to bring back elements that are made raw. To bring back making things by hand because that is true luxury.
Marios Schwab is a talent worth following. There was a great turn out of major retailers and editors present that indicated that the curiosity is keen for this designer.

This collection was tribal themed. It opened with a filmy burgundy dress which was fronted with a slither of leather strips and the bodice was framed with jutting black raffia. Great cotton minidresses followed that were cinched in the waist and tight in the sleeves. Jackets in black raffia and fringe suede were also standouts.

Schwab was inspired by the Native American garments and it showed throughout the collection and were not too literal. Schwab looked at graphics like the honeycomb pattern and how scientific it looked and it was quite a nice touch to the collection as well. The pleats were inspired by Ernst Hickly who was a biologist and later became an artist. Schwab loved the linear lines and how irregular they are and worked the pleating by wrapping it around the body as well as creating an accentuated waistline and making the garments look sexy at the same time.

The final looks were inspired by one of Marlene Dietrich's most iconic dresses. These had the touches of tribal beaded on them and sauntered down the runway looking sensual and giving a sexy disco vibe.
Marios Schwab is finding his way to being a great player in the fashion world and each season he steps up more and more. It is worth it.

Marios Schwab

Spring/Summer

2013

Matthew Williamson Rediscovers for Spring 2013.

For his 15th anniversary collection, Matthew Williamson said he wanted to go back to his design roots and rediscover his love for India. There were some wonderful tailored pieces in chiffon to silk chiffon evening gowns.

Williamson created looks in primary colors and they were pavéd with sparkling beads and mirror ornaments. There were purple and white suits with rainbow colors dripping down the front and the back, and a leather jacket in a café au lait color with sleeves that blinked of shiny beads and mirrors.

Williamson worked with artist Shane McAdams and created abstract images of Kerala and Tibet that emerged on some trousers all of which tied in perfectly with this elegant, sexy and light hearted collection and Williamson should smile for creating it.

Matthew Williamson 

Spring/Summer

2013

LFW Fall 2011 presents Impressing Collections

The fashion feast in London carries on nicely. The collections are worth seeing here. Temperly London by Alice Temperly was beautiful. With some Victorian influences, this line was worth paying attention to. Osma had geometric influences and bold coloring. Mulberry is a very English girl collection. Acne had autumn colors. And of course Vivienne Westwood's Red Label is very Westwood.

Pringle of Scotland poured out an endless amount of wool and beautiful knits and sweaters. David Roma, Erdem and Holly Fulton, well done!  Christopher Kane showed a great collection of some crochet sweater, tops and detailing, mixed with leather. The first look that opened the show really set the tone for the collection. Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter by Christopher Bailey is simply smashing!
Yes, London is calling and continues to do so.

Burberry Prorsum Autumn/Winter 2011

London is Calling

The London Fashion Week has been going on. In the beginning of it there were collections presenting clothes that almost all looked the same with the same short dresses with above the knee skirt lengths in different colors and fabrics. I was bored. And then the following day I perked up and saw some fun, luxe and impressive lines. Thank goodness. Louise Gray had presented color, and layers of textures that brushed a pulse of life in her designs. Jaeger London was luxe.  House of Holland was whimsical. Jonathan Saunders did a great job in a play of color blocking and mixing prints. I enjoyed Daniella Helayel's Issa collection. I am certain that somewhere in her mind that Kate Middleton was one of her inspirations.
There is more to come.

It really looks like London is calling this season.

Louise Gray Fall 2011

Issa Fall 2011 Collection