Fall 2012 is Bill Gaytten's Last Collection for the House of Christian Dior.

Bill Gaytten last collection for Dior was a great group of clothes full of Dior references. There were some soft versions of the New Look and some that had beautiful tailoring. Focus was on the cinched in waist and often belted full skirted silhouette.

Big stoned embroideries and graphic fabric plays and his boldest of moves, the midcalf skirt length were some of the big statements. Daytime was full of neat tailoring with modified Bars, a beautiful tricolored coat in horizontal blocks of blue, grey and rose. For evening, the line of small waist and full skirts followed and evolved into gowns and flowing skirts.

Altogether the show went on a bit too long with 56 looks, which was a bit surprising since Gaytten spent so many years in the Galliano-esque low thirties range. At the time word was that Dior's retail numbers were picking up. Gaytten could have been under the pressure to create a collection since it seemed that he was still in the audition stages. His tenure as the interim designer for the house has been the longest. Two years. I am sure it isn't easy. The questions remained. What is the house to do? What do Bernard Arnault and Sidney Toledano ultimately want for their designer? If they want show stopping, awe inspiring, breathless directorial fashion, Gaytten has not indicated that. There seemed to be an anchor to the brand while attracting paying clientelle, and great looks for the red carpet, with a descent couture showing in January for Spring 2012 couture and this fall show, all designed by Gaytten. He could have had a shot but that all changed in the months to come....

Christian Dior

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2012. The Raf Simons Era Begins.

Christian Dior is one of the most luxurious and beautiful brands in the world. Monsieur Dior himself always created clothes that were highly exquisite and unique. They had the most elegant touches in construction, detail and silhouette. Not only did they make a woman look beautiful but they made her feel beautiful as well. Today the house of Christian Dior continues to create the most beautiful clothes designed by the very talented and made by the best hands.

2012 marks a new era for the house of Dior with the most anticipated debut since Galliano's own debut in 1997. The beginning of the Raf Simons era took place in a grand residence in a series of rooms, the walls of each covered densely packed, floor to ceiling with flowers. One room had white orchids, deep purple delphiniums and multi blooms in another.  And in these rooms sat editors, executives and clients. The house ambassadors Sharon Stone and Marion Cotillard  were present, as well as a variety of supportive competitive designers - Azzedine Alaïa, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, Diane Von Furstenberg, Donatella Versace, as well as Pierre Cardin, Jean-Louis Scherrer, and Alber Elbaz. "We designers don't hate each other like they used to." says Marc Jacobs. Riccardo Tisci said the collection is "very Raf" and "the future of fashion."

The collection opened with a tuxedo that is an elegant updated Bar suit in black. "Cut off ballgown" ensembles came out with slim cigarette pants that were richly embroidered and elegant. There were some soft party dresses in the mix with a mixture of true couture craft. There was a dress of wide bands of pale pink and blue feathers that was quite exquisite.

Major focus was put on construction and subtle detail that at the same time offered a range from elegant sophistication to the younger end without compromising the Dior aesthetic. Simons worked on various fabric weights from astrakhan and mink to chiffon and mesh.

In the midst of all his blacks and greys he expressed his love for color in the form of a "Dior Red" coat and a shocking citron dress of sheer T-shirt and skirt.

In this entire collection Simons showed the respect for the house founder through his research of the fabulous archival wonders as the Bar, the florals, the range of grey tweeds while staying in the 21st century.

The house of Dior is already on the way with the New Looks and will do extremely well with old and new clients. LVMH Moët Hennesy Louis Vuitton chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault gave Simons a straightforward brief. "I simply told him: 'It's Dior, so give us your version, your vision of what Dior is today. You have the result. I think it's fantastic, " he said. After the show, Arnault said his yearlong designer search was worth the wait. "I didn't want to rush," he said. It was really a question of choosing the best person for the job, and he stood head and shoulders above the rest: the greatest talent of the moment for Dior, the greatest house in the world."

I am sure that Monsieur Dior himself would agree and would also be pretty pleased. After his first collection for Dior, Raf Simons will definitely continue to evolve in his craft as an amazing haute couture designer. Congratulations!

Christian Dior 

Haute Couture

Autumn/Winter

2012-2013