Christopher Bailey made sure that this collection was filled with intense color and shine. He also added flourishes of leather and lace in the mix of all of this as well. At the end of the show Bailey said, "I wanted it playful, sassy and joyous with colors so intense you wring them out."
Right now Bailey is managing in keeping things upbeat. He was asked regarding the recent of a slowdown in worldwide retail sales. "You need to do things that make people smile, to have a point of view. And if you work with integrity and honesty, you can ride out the challenges," he said
The trenches and dresses that were fashioned from emerald green lace, with a jaunty fishtail flair at the hem certainly put smiles on faces. A wonderful curvy dress plastered with teal feathers and a deep pink and red trench also did the trick.
Purple and hot pink fabrics with the look and texture of foil wrappers were cut into a short sleeved shirt or pleated strapless dress. In the meantime, shiny cotton sateen trenches came in shades such as midnight blue, raspberry and acid green.
At times Bailey would hold back from all the color by sending out cool white trenches or Champagne colored ones worn with rose gold capelets.
The collection was packed with tiny capes that hit midway down the arm which is a bit tricky and longer ones which had a more grown up sensibility.
The finale was a parade of shiny trenches in various colors and handbags in hand that made sure the world does not forget what Burberry Prorsum is all about. Christopher Bailey made sure of that and the smiles never disappeared all along, throughout the entire show.
This is a collection that Jonathan Saunders created to prove that he can evolve his design talent from the graphic prints that have become his signature. Not only is he a textile designer but a fabric designer as well and he conveyed the latter in an amazing way this time around.
He decided to go forward in a more seductive vein with looks that reflected the Seventies. What sashayed down the runway were swingy dresses with slashed necklines, done in color-blocked, jewel-toned silks, metallic leather chevron stripes or dense sequins in jade green or deep blue.
Even though Saunders said that he wanted to focus on fabrics rather than prints he still managed to create prints that were more subtle this time around. Silk water drops were appliqued onto a black chiffon slipdress, and a similar motif in ombré shades of blue on a silk t-shirt and trouser combo were clean and colorful.
The sleek pantsuits worn with chiffon and silk triangle bras were sexy and clean. The models had glossy purple lips and mussed up hair that added the subtle Seventies feel. Jonathan Saunders is no doubt one of London's designers that makes simple look modern, elegant and new. His collections are worth anticipating because of the eye of design he has, for he possesses a real great talent and it shows.
Marios Schwab said because the world is so obsessed with digital technology, he would like to bring back elements that are made raw. To bring back making things by hand because that is true luxury.
Marios Schwab is a talent worth following. There was a great turn out of major retailers and editors present that indicated that the curiosity is keen for this designer.
This collection was tribal themed. It opened with a filmy burgundy dress which was fronted with a slither of leather strips and the bodice was framed with jutting black raffia. Great cotton minidresses followed that were cinched in the waist and tight in the sleeves. Jackets in black raffia and fringe suede were also standouts.
Schwab was inspired by the Native American garments and it showed throughout the collection and were not too literal. Schwab looked at graphics like the honeycomb pattern and how scientific it looked and it was quite a nice touch to the collection as well. The pleats were inspired by Ernst Hickly who was a biologist and later became an artist. Schwab loved the linear lines and how irregular they are and worked the pleating by wrapping it around the body as well as creating an accentuated waistline and making the garments look sexy at the same time.
The final looks were inspired by one of Marlene Dietrich's most iconic dresses. These had the touches of tribal beaded on them and sauntered down the runway looking sensual and giving a sexy disco vibe.
Marios Schwab is finding his way to being a great player in the fashion world and each season he steps up more and more. It is worth it.
For his 15th anniversary collection, Matthew Williamson said he wanted to go back to his design roots and rediscover his love for India. There were some wonderful tailored pieces in chiffon to silk chiffon evening gowns.
Williamson created looks in primary colors and they were pavéd with sparkling beads and mirror ornaments. There were purple and white suits with rainbow colors dripping down the front and the back, and a leather jacket in a café au lait color with sleeves that blinked of shiny beads and mirrors.
Williamson worked with artist Shane McAdams and created abstract images of Kerala and Tibet that emerged on some trousers all of which tied in perfectly with this elegant, sexy and light hearted collection and Williamson should smile for creating it.
This collection by Proenza Schouler was just the most marvelous, innovative, risk taking collection that was a result of the grand year that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough have been having. New financing, new retail-business spirit guide and a brand new store in the prime of Madison Avenue real estate.
For this spring their message is randomness. "The internet, the images you're bombarded with and the collage of information that you get everyday," was how Hernandez described the collection. The designers went into a world of unlimited creative possibilities and came up with new, cool, fantastic ideas that were exquisitely tasteful in a fashion forward way.
The clothes had a digital quality to them, indeed. High def colors, neon green, electric blue and red, blared on laminated leathers, like a new patent, cut so thin and lightweight they were almost two dimensional. There was leather on boxy jackets, low slung pleated kilts and dresses that were fitted around the bodice and shoulders like a wet-suit and flared at the knee.
Patchwork looks were a dominance and there were some solid looks that were perforated with pixel-like dots. Hernandez and McCullough were inspired by a Gerhard Richter exhibition they had seen in Paris and they were keen on the notion of collage and what turned out were a combination of skins like the multicolored pieces of snake and iguana sewn up into one streamlined look combined with Internet sourced photos.
Pictures of a pool, a pool and a protest were all splice up with vivid jacquards, satins and graphic woven techniques on dresses and separates. What the designers did for the finale is that they blew the photo prints out onto dresses that featured a uniform embroidery of bright buttons at the top and grommets at the skirt.
This collection was one of the best for this spring season. Graphic and Amazing.
Never has Ralph Lauren done anything Latin. For this spring he sent out a collection that had just that. Sabor Latino! The line up was elegant, flirty, fresh, elegant and sexy.
There were recognizable Ralph Lauren touches that had reference points such as Spain, Mexico and other Latin epicenters that were sensual and sultry. Even though the show ran a bit too long and was a bit literal there were clothes that had a perfect bravado that is so irresistible that had the designer's ethos.
When the first look, a frilled turquoise suede shirt over black pants came out the message was clear - exuberance, color and lots of accessories. The craftsmanship was exquisite. Surface textures enriched via crochets and embroideries. There was a casual attitude in the best looks regardless of the berets, jewelry, bandannas and array of bags.
The serapes were charming and were not even used as serapes but as an off-the-shoulder-top. There was a group of toreador looks that came through this line up that was a tad costumey yet not shy in showing the embroidery and beading that went into the pieces.
For evening there were some stunning and exquisite gowns like a passion red gown with a lacquered lace bodice and skirt with cascading ruffles and a couple of them black embroidered, curvaceous stunners that were quite sensual.
Oscar de la Renta is still in the league and this spring and summer season shows it. The show opened with Karlie Kloss in a shiny red latex top paired with a slim pencil skirt and a blazer. This gave a taste of what the collection will be about. Chic with an edge that demands the attention by everyone to notice the woman. This showed again on a slick emerald green tank and pencil skirt under a hot pink silk faille jackert embroidered with black tassels. The models hair were swept in messy beehives that were streaked with pink, yellow, and blue. De la Renta was having fun and showed that he can still design beautiful collections and grand ones at that.
Each piece is an example of the amazing studio that produces them. Daywear was solid, clean and fresh. A simple white suit that was beautifully constructed and had slim cut pants was elegant and a belted sleeveless safari style top with wide tailored pants all in white gave class. There were also daysuits in doily lace and fuchsia astrakhan.
After dark, a pair of party dresses in feather embroidered tulle were especially memorable. A black ball gown that was slightly short in the front with embroidered beading on the bodice was grand and a striped number made a mark of a fun, simple touch to evening dressing. Shocking pink and green faired well in the line up of the evening section of the collection.
This collection made an impression that an influential French editor was heard saying "J'adore Oscar". Oscar de la Renta is a class act and is one of the remaining true masters of fashion and always comes up with marvelous clothes that are of class and modern with a couture touch. What a delight.
Spring is a time to feel alive, light and to have a sense of cleanliness. This Calvin Klein collection for this spring are all these things and more. "Erotic. Feminine. Urban. Chic. High sophistication." These are the words Fransisco Costa used to describe his lineup for this collection.
One of the key influences for this collection was the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, one of Calvin Klein's most famous former employees. There was a great sense of exploration as well that worked well with the collection. "She is very much part of this house," Costa said. "She had this really cool vibe. All the Yohji and the Calvin....There was an edge to her, the clothes were never dull."
Bessette-Kennedy's fashion sensibility could be seen in the tasteful and artful tailoring. There was a sexual dimension in several of the dresses and separates that featured bras and bustier tops, some in view and others peeking out from iunder filmy layerings. According to Costa the looks were "very pinup." That could be so, but they made up for a highly modern variation with no references to the traditional retro ideas. He also created fabulous looks playing with outting transparent fabrics over solids, using weblike moire cages over strapless sheaths.
Fransisco Costa is the perfect designer for the Calvin Klein Collections. His architectural touches influences the designs divinely and with that, the clothes have movement. As this is so, he maintains the Calvin Klein style alive, therefor it remains a strong presence in the New York fashion world.
The exuding calm and confidence that Narciso Rodriquez was radiating was so obvious and it was for a very good reason. He was about to present a wonderful collection of spare silhouetted, exquisite cuts and colorful graphics that were all perfectly executed with a perfect sense of control.
For this season he continued to focus on construction. "I was looking at the way the masters - Vionnet and Balenciaga - cut on the bias, then translating that into something modern," he said. The versions that he presented were fluid and complicated in construction and all looked effortless and divine. Rodriguez does a wonderful job in working the minimal angle.
This time he not did that but he also ventured into surface embellishments. It was an unknown territory for him but the results were lovely. There were laminated wooden paillettes, which he applied in an abstract motif on a striking moss dress. He also added colorful embroidery on several chic tops. The texture added a new dimension in Rodrigiuez's work and it was just beautiful.
The final looks were flowing, languid slip dresses that were almost transparent were it not for their big fuchsia and magenta color blocks. They were exquisite and look like a dream to wear for a beautiful summer evening. Narciso Rodriguez is a designer who is so good in the art of construction and technique that in this case and in this season showed his confidence in his designing abilities. Yes, this season is a confident collection and should not be missed out.
