Martin Margiela Haute Couture Spring 2015 by John Galliano

After such anticipation of the Martin Margiela Haute Couture Spring 2015 collection designed by John Galliano, the fashion world put its sense of anticipation to rest.The house is know for not revealing or saying who is behind all the designing for the house. That the designer or designers remain nameless. Now, the whole world now knows who is behind all that is being created now and moving forward. Thanks to the announcement of John Galliano as its new creative director by Renzo Rosso, the Italian entrepreneur and president of OTB, which owns the house,

Martin Margiela is a brand that showcases Artisanal and unconventional methods to fashion and design. Galliano stepped in and brought forth some of his artistry and wit into his first collection for the house this Spring season. Galliano matched the spirit of Margiela into each and every single design that was presented. Deconstruction is a concept that Margiela is known for and Galliano played with it giving some fresh and artistic looks as a result. Adrogeny played a part in a black suit along with some simple red gowns which represented the minimalism that Margiela was known for. A red Mao collared velvet dress with a very daring low back was beautiful. It could make an entrance at a big event such as the Gala at the MET this spring or even at the awards season on the Red Carpet this year.

Humor is noticeable which was present in Margiella designs.  On a tiny suede sheath there were toy cars that went across the collaged landscape. Galliano used shells to make a three dimensional Arcimbo like faces on the front of dresses. Leopard print accents and a tiger print jacket were a representation of the flashy show girl side that the house is known for.

Galliano has found a new home. He is back doing what he has always loved to do. Everyone seems to be very pleased with what he has designed. People were crying at the end of the show. It is great that he has an opportunity to redeem himself in a way that is full of humility and gratitude and I am certain that he feels that way because he has a second chance. His bow at the end of the show was a quick second if not less than that. Yes, it is because the House of Margiela never had a designer come out and take a bow at the end but I also think he did it because it shows humility. This is way further from when he used to come out with extravagance and grandeur (which come to think of it was very full of ego).

Other than that, WELCOME BACK John Galliano!!! This was a job well done and I can't wait to see what you have in store in the coming years for the House of Margiela!!!

Fendi does Dynamic Chic for Spring/Summer 2013.

Fendi is in the sphere of Karl Lagerfeld's galaxy. It is a fur and leather house in its heart and in Lagerfeld's hands it can move between crafty and futuristic. In this case there were grey floating globes hung under the ceiling along the runway. One burst at the end of the runway to cue the first exit. It was a perfectly clear message of dynamic sportswear that is crisp and not simple, which is the perfect example of craftsmanship that is perfection.

Shirts and skirts were beautifully cut in leather. The influences of Cubism and the Bauhaus were noticeable in the start of the collection which were angular, color blocked panels which framed the looks. Shirtdresses were abundant and were fresh in chalky color combinations and treatments that ranged from shaved fur to short, bounce fringe.

There were graphic geometrics that were softened into a powdery print that looked like a soft explosion. "The Big Bang" is what Lagerfeld called it backstage. "There were enough flower prints around." They were on a relaxed, sleeveless dress and a very fanciful fur jacket, all fitted and shorn up top and descended in to longer, more elaborately colored fur.

The accessories were stripped of the usual house signatures. The Baguette, Mama, Peekaboo, and Toujours bags had no metal components. There were bright pop treatments. Baguettes came without handles, covered in multicolored buttons and precise rows of rounded studs that looked like Candy Dots.

This collection carried new ideas, color and textile combinations and attitude. It was all playful and the House of Fendi really delivers great goods not matter what season it is.

FENDI

Spring/Summer

2013

Eccentrico Giorgio Armani for Spring/Summer 2013

There was an exhibit that showcased 51 looks and accessories by Giorgio Armani called "Eccentrico". It was showcasing creations from 1985 to the present. It went from the hyper constructed pieces like his silver galactic piece for Lady Gaga to the utterly romantic, to an ethereal blue wonder from 2001, to the fantastic Orientalism from the Privé 2009 collection. All of this showed the range of a designer who creates marvelous designs at the right time without losing the Armani signature in any of them. Armani continues to refine his designs which are all timeless and define a moment in time.

"Kaleidoscope" is a collection that started with subdues looks in shades of grey for daytime. This all then moved into a range of lovely blues. The pieces are worn in layers, often a short jacket over a tunic and pants for a tri-level effect. There was airiness which was often an effect, as Armani worked in lightweight silks.  There was organza among these and they looked crispy and awkward. There were a number of dresses that were layered over pants, which Armani did endlessly and with gusto. It turned out to be annoying and I could not help but imagine these dresses without the pants. I thought most of them would have looked pretty without them.

Throughout though there is the sense of elegant ease that Armani is known for, like the jacket he delivered with softly pleated flyaway backs. Shorts were a major focal point and dresses had some gentle prints. Evening was sprinkled with crystals in the likes of grids, starbursts and spheres which all burst in backgrounds of black and navy.
Relaxed and elegant is a mood that Giorgio Armani put out this season in his kaleidoscope of creativity and this can be an addition to his future exhibits of his work some day.

Giorgio Armani

Spring/Summer

2013

PRADA Spring/Summer 2013 Continues to Impress with Whimsy and Japan.

Miuccia Prada opted for creating a collection that spoke many words that she expressed through her designs over the year. Toughness and the poetic part  are the two characteristics of womanhood that she wanted to convey for this season. "I tried to mix them together, because this is mainly what women have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream." Prada said before the show.

Prada has always offered the kind of clothes that are perfectly sublime in detail and whimsy done in perfect taste. This kind of fashion is what keeps the fantasy of fashion interesting and when the commercial aspect of it is mixed into that, then it is a wonderfully successful. Prada has brought both clothes to look at and clothes to wear together and came up with this collection that did both.

The shoes were stark and to the point of severity. The short black dress with an off-center panel decorated with two white long-stemmed flowers that looked drawn in chalk was the first out and looked like it was an ode to third grade art class making flower Pop art. But what followed after were a parade of similarly crafted pieces that were printed and appliquéd with flowers providing sweet counterpart to austere shapes.

There were references to traditional Japanese kimonos, hakamas and footwear as well as lingerie which is a fascination of Prada. Color worked its way in: a dark green coat, a navy dress, splashes of red, then there were full on pastels, all icy pink, green and girly. Throughout the flowers changed without losing their clarity. 

This all looked beautiful, unfussy and quite clean. It was worth talking about and worth looking at but the prize would be that it would be utterly worth to wear these clothes. Wearable clothes are always Prada's goal and that is the Prada magic.

PRADA

Spring/Summer

2013

Alberta Ferretti Spring/Summer 2013 is a Beautiful Floating Experience.

The feeling of being in a space watching beautiful designs floating by was an amazing feeling especially viewing this collection by Alberta Ferretti. It was purely feminine, light, ethereal, romantic and had a goddess like quality through out it all. The romanticism seemed to never run out because there was plenty of it, thank goodness or should I say, thank Goddess.

At first it felt as though the time was spent under water and that the siren looking models were covered with fringe embroideries that looked foamy and worked nicely against the wet looking organza and slick lamés. A short skaterly blue dress with nude tulle embroidered with lace looked whispering soft like an aquatic fairy floating in the deep.

At the end of the presentation worked with the slick lamés in black, blue, green and ivory on her signature gowns, which were done in an artfully tattered snsibility. She said that there is an absence of gravity. "As if the fabrics are floating around the woman." One of the perfect examples of this is the effect on pretty cutaway chiffon tops worn over cropped pants.
Alberta Ferretti makes sure that the woman sees that the clothes are designed to become one with the woman. Or that the woman become one with the clothes. Now that is essentially perfect for any woman!

Alberta Ferretti

Spring/Summer

2013

Gucci Gives Aristographic Looks for Spring/Summer 2013.

Certainly stellar collection for spring by Frida Giannini for Gucci. In the show notes "Aristographic" Giannini said that she had been inspired by Richard Avedon, specifically his portraits of Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty, and Gloria Vanderbilt. There was also an influence of Yves Saint Laurent in vibrant colors.

The lean tailored clothes and the recurring of bold large ruffles defined the silhouette while providing the collection's primary embellishment. Giannini showed tunics over fluid pants again and again, sometimes with abundant, tiered ruffles running down the sleeves, sometimes with cutout backs. There were some polished feminine suits that were unfussy, sharp and feminine.

The looks may have had some early Seventies feel for the day yet had a distinctive way of dressing for evening. Definitely this was a highly focused collection where there were lean options. Giannini did offer some diversity with python prints which were perfect and a giant sea anemone print which were all right.

The evening portion was totally beautiful and worked like a charm. The columns were linear yet loosened and had all the seductive elements in them in black, white and brights.
Confidence was the underlying essence that this collection offered and that was pretty loud in this line up and it was infused with glamour as well. Frida Giannini is doing Gucci justice with her talent and her strong eye for modern style.

Gucci

Spring-Summer

2013

Peter Pilotto Spring 2013

There seems to be a competition among the designers of print in London and the design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos certainly met up with a challenge with a collection with 3-D embroideries, beading and cutouts to their digitally generated patterns.

The shapes were interesting with undulating peplums, tiered ruffles and jutting panierlike extensions on sleeves and skirts. It kept ones attention yet seemed to be a tad bit of balance. The collection was quite inventive and well executed. even though it was a bit heavy handed and busy. The simplest short dresses were great with short kimono like sleeves and graphic necklines that exalted the prints, rather than overwhelming them.

Pilotto and Vos definitely know how to cut a feminine clothes that are flattering and striking. In previous collections one can see that this is so. This time around they did the same but they only needed to find a balance. They can do this and I am sure they will. I always love seeing their collections because they are, in my eyes, stunning and I love the way they put prints together and make them work in all kinds of silhouettes. Peter Pilotto is worth viewing any season of the year. I recommend you view their collections as well, when you can. It is worth it.

Peter Pilotto

Spring/Summer

2013

Issa London Spring/Summer 2013 is Tropically Divine!

This Issa London collection by Daniella Helayel was blazing on the runway with tropical colors and sexy silhouettes that had Seventies touches fit for breezy walks on the beach or for cocktails after your swim. All the models look gorgeous with orchids in their hair and they had on caftans that came in hot pink, and tangerine.

Helayel's jumpsuits are always divine and came in tropical colors as well as a parrot print. The long silk dresses, some with halter necklines, came in rich colors such as purple. emerald, yellow and royal blue. There were swingy dresses with deep V-necks that came in acid green or hot pink perfect for a day trip into town.

The beautiful white halter dresses with exaggerated orchids handpainted on the hems were impressive and perfect for a tropical evening for cocktails and dinner.
Breezy, sexy and beautiful is how I can sum it up for this fine collection. Always a pleasure to see what  Issa London has in store for every spring season.

Issa London

Spring/Summer

2013

Temperly London Spring/Summer Sirens for 2013.

The show opened with a wonderful column dress that had a red bodice and striped skirt, made with wide ribbons appliquéd onto the fabric which set the tone for what Temperly London has to offer for this spring and summer season.

Alice Temperly designed a collection of which she was inspired by screen sirens, specifically Sophia Loren whose sexy figure and magnetic allure have always captivated the world. Intricate patterns of Moorish tiles made her glamorous dresses eye catchers. The silhouettes were inspired by Dior's New Look and there were a good number of full skirts and saucerlike hats. Appliqué played a marvelous role as special details added to fine silk mesh blouses and full skirts.

Temperly's evening wear was beautifully crafted in delicate ivory and pale blue wild Morocco art showed up in digital prints which were looking good on silk wide trousers worn with a matching top. Some beading and embroideries added special touches and the sophisticated black ensembles were fetching.

Temperly London is all about mix and matching and offering special pieces, as well as making and crafting clothes in a way that they are supposed to be crafted. This is great to see because no art of making high end clothes should be lost. It should be utilized always and forever because most people highly appreciate it. That is a relief to know. Thank you for the beautiful collection, Temperly London!

Temperly London

Spring/Summer

2013

Christopher Kane Channels Frankenstein for Spring/Summer 2013

Christopher Kane made Frankenstein known for this spring season. The bolts and wing nuts made in acrylic were the signature details for this clean and creative collection. They clamped the shoulder straps of ladylike luncheon suits, pierced the bows festooning the front of a cocktail dress and anchored the slits on a narrow skirt.

The stiff biker jackets were a shock of stimulating fashion that were made of embossed leather that opened the show and a cocktail dress dotted with rectangular bows. Adorable were the experimental rubbery bows pieced together into clunky cardigan jackets and narrow skirts. There were bits of lace and beading that were pasted beautifully on silk gazar coats and dresses with black electrical tape.

Experiments and innovation is the current flowing through out this collection. Christopher Kane, a designer who puts himself to the task to have ones eye look at his designs and be stimulated by the details in his designs, leaving an impression in ones mind. Now that is clever design.

Christopher Kane

Spring/Summer

2013

Tom Ford Spring 2013 Stimulates and is Brazen.

Before I go on writing about Tom Ford's spring collection I wanted you all to know that press was not allowed to photograph the collection, as in previous seasons.

Tom Ford is known as a sexy designer. Not that he is only a sexy man but he creates sexy clothes that are tasteful, glamorous and chic. This time for spring he included tough in the mix. There was chastity and perversity that stimulates the curiosity within most people. This means that bondage knots that wrapped up silky tops and dresses were tied with silk cord, and slithery black patent leather skirts were often teamed with roll-neck sweaters or loose, blouson tops.

The collection was not only brazen but often sexy. The glossy patent leather trenchcoats with demonstrative collars in black and nude were stunningly sleek and gorgeous. There were also skin tight pants consisting of tiny strips of cobalt blue leather that gave a tough feminine touch. The slinky gowns that were made up with beaded mesh bands unstitched here and there revealed some leg.

Tom Ford spoke about the perverse elements in the designs, including a swimsuit with a jockstraplike bottom and these sickening metallic heels with zip-on shin guards.

As usual (and I mean it in a good way) Tom Ford has designed for the confident woman who wants to be noticed anywhere. For evening he has created fantastic cocktail dresses and gowns that were made in papery taffeta or liquid jersey with billowing, couture backs.

If these clothes get any woman their attention, then Tom Ford has done his job.

Tom Ford 

Spring/Summer

2013

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2013 is All About Stamps, Money and Swarovski Crystal Mesh.

 

Mary Katrantzou used the theme of world history. She looked at postage stamps which transcend time and space as well as banknotes and their colors, patterns and images and all of the cultural significance that all of them have and created signature prints that she is known for. These prints were presented on white backgrounds and the silhouettes were clean with bold A-line dresses making a big statement.

The  gorgeous evening gowns were made from fabulous Swarovski crystal mesh\ that had been fused to silk brocade and printed in intricate patterns. A couple of trouser suits in navy and pearl were elegantly understated and had an adrogynous appeal yet looked glamorous.

Katrantzou's use of brocade integrated with Swarovski crystal mesh this season took her design abilities to a whole new level. A smart, intelligent designer who is constantly exploring, Katrantzou uses her keen eye and creativity to create masterful clothes and keeps her reputation as master of prints.

For this collection, she highly suggests not to look at the stamps or money in the collection but notice the colors, patterns and the prints and enjoy the beauty of it all. It is worth it. Full stop.

Mary Katrantzou
Spring/Summer
2013

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013 Makes People Smile.

Christopher Bailey made sure that this collection was filled with intense color and shine. He also added flourishes of leather and lace in the mix of all of this as well. At the end of the show Bailey said, "I wanted it playful, sassy and joyous with colors so intense you wring them out."
Right now Bailey is managing in keeping things upbeat. He was asked regarding the recent of a slowdown in worldwide retail sales. "You need to do things that make people smile, to have a point of view. And if you work with integrity and honesty, you can ride out the challenges," he said

The trenches and dresses that were fashioned from emerald green lace, with a jaunty fishtail flair at the hem certainly put smiles on faces. A wonderful curvy dress plastered with teal feathers and a deep pink and red trench also did the trick.

Purple and hot pink fabrics with the look and texture of foil wrappers were cut into a short sleeved shirt or pleated strapless dress. In the meantime, shiny cotton sateen trenches came in shades such as midnight blue, raspberry and acid green.

At times Bailey would hold back from all the color by sending out cool white trenches or Champagne colored ones worn with rose gold capelets.
The collection was packed with tiny capes that hit midway down the arm which is a bit tricky and longer ones which had a more grown up sensibility.

The finale was a parade of shiny trenches in various colors and handbags in hand that made sure the world does not forget what Burberry Prorsum is all about. Christopher Bailey made sure of that and the smiles never disappeared all along, throughout the entire show.

Burberry Prorsum

Spring/Summer

2013

The Evolving Jonathan Saunders Shows Spring/Summer 2013.

This is a collection that Jonathan Saunders created to prove that he can evolve his design talent from  the graphic prints that have become his signature. Not only is he a textile designer but a fabric designer as well and he conveyed the latter in an amazing way this time around.

He decided to go forward in a more seductive vein with looks that reflected the Seventies. What sashayed down the runway were swingy dresses with slashed necklines, done in color-blocked, jewel-toned silks, metallic leather chevron stripes or dense sequins in jade green or deep blue.

Even though Saunders said that he wanted to focus on fabrics rather than prints he still managed to create prints that were more subtle this time around. Silk water drops were appliqued onto a black chiffon slipdress, and a similar motif in ombré shades of blue on a silk t-shirt and trouser combo were clean and colorful.

The sleek pantsuits worn with chiffon and silk triangle bras were sexy and clean. The models had glossy purple lips and mussed up hair that added the subtle Seventies feel.
Jonathan Saunders is no doubt one of London's designers that makes simple look modern, elegant and new. His collections are worth anticipating because of the eye of design he has, for he possesses a real great talent and it shows.

Jonathan Saunders

Spring/Summer

2013

Marios Schwab Spring 2013 is Native American Chic.

Marios Schwab said because the world is so obsessed with digital technology, he would like to bring back elements that are made raw. To bring back making things by hand because that is true luxury.
Marios Schwab is a talent worth following. There was a great turn out of major retailers and editors present that indicated that the curiosity is keen for this designer.

This collection was tribal themed. It opened with a filmy burgundy dress which was fronted with a slither of leather strips and the bodice was framed with jutting black raffia. Great cotton minidresses followed that were cinched in the waist and tight in the sleeves. Jackets in black raffia and fringe suede were also standouts.

Schwab was inspired by the Native American garments and it showed throughout the collection and were not too literal. Schwab looked at graphics like the honeycomb pattern and how scientific it looked and it was quite a nice touch to the collection as well. The pleats were inspired by Ernst Hickly who was a biologist and later became an artist. Schwab loved the linear lines and how irregular they are and worked the pleating by wrapping it around the body as well as creating an accentuated waistline and making the garments look sexy at the same time.

The final looks were inspired by one of Marlene Dietrich's most iconic dresses. These had the touches of tribal beaded on them and sauntered down the runway looking sensual and giving a sexy disco vibe.
Marios Schwab is finding his way to being a great player in the fashion world and each season he steps up more and more. It is worth it.

Marios Schwab

Spring/Summer

2013