Ralph Lauren Fall 2012

Downton Abbey is a popular show these days and the soundtrack of it came over the loudspeaker at Ralph Lauren and everyone who were a bit tired from seeing so many New York collections all perked up. The show has been so popular that the references in this collection has not been all that literal. The first group was all of men's wear for ladies. 

The majority were tailored looks and mostly with pants. The outerwear was all in the mix as well, from a houndstooth greatcoat to a glen plaid double breasted style. Suits were plenty. A silk velvet three piece suit was the tops.

The evening portion of the collection was a mixture of sleek glamour - a line up of gold and black numbers with a shot of fuchsia gowns - and playful Twenties - a beaded flapper number and a black column dresses embellished with gold and platinum Art Deco embroideries. It was all very modern elegance.

Ralph Lauren has kept the looks classic and American which is his signature and has always been consistent with giving his clients exactly that.


Ralph Lauren
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2012 is Loud with Volume.

The Calvin Klein Collection is sculpted with silhouettes that were created by Francisco Costa. Dresses outnumbered pants and the skirts were all mid-calf length. This is a strong collection that spoke loud with volume. There was a focus on the waist, cinching coats and dresses from dense wools or bonded leather with metal-banded belts.

Great inverted darts above the midriff and pleats below created the nipped silhouette. There were peplumed jackets that followed the curved lines. Pants were presented and they were cropped above the ankles. The heavy fabrics did not feel in any way weighed down because of the built-in volumes.

There were few dresses that had sheer panels on the torso that had a clean sense of sex appeal. Speaking of sex appeal Costa always makes sure that none of it gets lost in the marvelous genius of his designs for the Calvin Klein Collection.

Calvin Klein Collection

Fall/Winter

2012-2013

Marchesa expresses Soul for Fall 2012.

 

Marchesa went into a more sophisticated direction. Of course there is a need to design dresses for the red carpet and the Oscars, but there were a lot of shorter and lighter dresses. A beautiful white short dress with caped sleeves that looked light as a feather was beautiful and girly and another had rich blue embroidery on a delicate white dress. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were taken by the late Nineteenth century French painter William-Adolphe Bouguereau's  A Soul Brought to Heaven, which depicts two angels spiriting a young woman through the clouds.



You can see this inspiration in the winged embroideries and and the feathers that were details on some of the dresses. Four dresses that were extravagant ball gowns moved along the runway sweeping every one's feet, almost carrying Ingrid Sischy's phone which she accidentally dropped. She did pick it up in the nick of time. There was a darker side which came in dresses worn over skeleton-embroidered bodysuits and a laser-cut black dress which was elegantly tough.
Marchesa continues to be known for their unique and elegant designs and construction which are always looked forward to in every season.
 

 

Marchesa

Fall/Winter

2012-2013



Oscar de la Renta is Youth Chic for Fall/Winter 2012-2013.

Oscar de la Renta had a very youthful momentum in his entire collection. In this case it means that no matter how youthful these garments look this fall, any woman of any age can find something to wear from his entire collection. The line up of course included the sophistication, elegance and class that Oscar is known for and really does not disappoint.

The girly effects such as fishnets, jewel encrusted booties, pouf or tiered tulle, pastel furs and helmet hair tied with a jewel-encrusted bow were the details that made some looks playful. Bauble motifs threaded throughout that featured huge prints and embroideries of pendant brooches on jackets, skirts and sheathes.



The wonderful group of glamorous restraint, soon morphed into a group of pretty pastels, tweeds and party frocks fit princesses of any ages. Silhouettes were from fitted to straight sophistication. There were some pouf skirts as well as some pencil skirts.
Daywear included some fabulous suits that were signature Oscar de la Renta that came in many different tweeds. pants with fur hems were matched with fur vests and short sleeved shirts showing that the Oscar girl can be playful and fun.



Evening was precious with an array of sophisticated looks. A gown covered with graphic paillettes was divine. And how can an Oscar de la Renta collection not be without any ballgowns? It would be blasphemous! This time the ballgowns were truly gorgeous with tulle skirts that tastefully and gradually got bigger and bigger.
This collection was certainly without any limits and it was done well. Oscar truly has a great eye and taste for fashion and at his age it is wonderfully endless! I Love you Oscar!!!

 

Oscar de la Renta

Fall/Winter

2012-2013



Michael Kors is a Mixture for Fall/Winter 2012-2013



 

Michael Kors had a fabulous day at Wall Street the day before his show, with his company's shares rising 27.5 percent. The collection was definitely in the spotlight and it did not slow him down in a NY way from going onward and upward. Being in business for 30 years Kors has his formula down and it is definitely working. Of course there have been some rough years within these 30 years but Kors has always been happy to give his ladies glamorous, sporty clothes that are sexy and practical.

"What does American beauty really mean?" he asked in an interview. "At the end of the day, it's roughly elegant." This certainly was what Michael Kors sent down the runway which were looks that were highly luxurious and had an extravagance. All of it can be worn in Manhattan or up in Aspen. The furs came in shearling, Mongolian lamb and raccoon. For the women who want tamer outerwear can opt for the tartan chesterfields and striped blanket ponchos with deep fringe. There were accessories that included hats, neck ruffs, and a pack-for-a-week shoulder bags.

Daywear had quite a mix that was unexpected for example an almost conservative midi-length skirt paired with a knit lace tank bustier, or black leather adding edge to a grey plaid dress. Kors also worked  in a more ladyfied approach for smart dresses, one a strapless black wool stunner; another in black leather with black lace insets.

 

Evening had some wonderful stunners. The crystal beaded stretch jersey gowns in red and black with keyhole backs were beautiful.

Michael Kors

Fall/Winter

2012-2013



Anna Sui Fall/Winter 2012-2013



Anna Sui showed a collection full of clothes that told there own story. The clothes had precision and polish. The stories within the collection were caftans inspired by those worn by Elizabeth Tayor, commercial art of Fellini favorite John Alcorn, the valentine card illustrators Walter and Naiad Einsel and the Todd Oldham book about textile designer Alexander Girard. Plenty of stories but it all worked well in this presentation. There were also some folkloric touches that Sui is good at like the handcrafted owl applique which was attached to a velvet varsity jacket over brown corduroy shorts that is a look perfect for Twiggy.

 



A beautiful glittery plaid shift topped by a matching coat and paired with kitten heels looked perfect for the Jean Shrimpton type. Anna Sui on the long run in this season made sure she created clothes that would walk off the runway and be worn in the streets. And you know what? That she did a great job!


Anna Sui
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

J.Mendel is Ultra Elegant for Fall/Winter 2012



Antonio Gaudi was the inspiration that led Gilles Mendel to design his ultra elegant fall collection. It was filled with mixed textures, rounded shapes and most of all, mosaic like details and the palette was mostly neutral. The experiments were mostly centered on the construction on his furs of which there were up to eight different kinds. Coats were knit together with various fur textures, and voluminous yet  lightweight dégradé furs mounted on tulle. The white group in Mendel's show was a stunner and really set the tone for fall and cold winter days or nights. His sportier looks were a hit such as a black tiered shearling jacket and flippy short skirt.

 

 

 A great deal of eveningwear was displayed. Mendel certainly did not skimp out in this section. It was all sophisticated and beautiful. A white column slashed with gold accents was modern and chic. The beaded and hammered charmeuse bias-cut gowns were nice and a strapless, gold beaded sheath was stunning. There are many more that were shown that were luxurious.

J.Mendel is a fashion house that truly represents high luxury looks and quality that is a treasure here in New York. Mendel did a great job in designing clothes that are perfect for his fans and clients. Yes, J.Mendel is a treasure and this season it shows.

J.Mendel
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2012 is Moodily Gorgeous.

At the Narciso Rodriguez show there sat Gloria Estefan at the front row and her Latin beat was playing on repeat. This led to thinking that Rodriguez would show some of his passionate roots for fall. It turns out that he had something else in mind for his collection. "There's so much inspiration that went into it," Rodriguez said after the show. "Collaging, collecting, color, film stills, many artists, the film world. A lot of thinking."



The first look that came out was a chartreuse coat that was architectural and tailored in a modern bell shape. What followed were dresses draped around the torso, where there was a playful mixture of matte and shiny that accentuated the figure.  Coats had a bell shaped volume that started at the waist and falling in A-line shapes from the shoulders and had a nice twist of a look at them. A pair of beaver coats were color blocked in warm autumn shades and looked fab. There was a saffron and burgundy dress that looked as though it had two looks in one.



 

Sexy looks such as a double layered tweed and flannel bustier and a tank stitched from black lace and embroidered silk were slightly awkward yet they were attention getters. The same lesson was applied to narrow bias cut silk evening skirts that fluttered and gave runway wind a good name. Pants were not so much on Rodriguez's mind yet the ones he presented were beautifully crisp, tailored and perfect. The introduction of his show and handbag collections debut here and they were precious and were a strong addition. They were a mixture of alligator, lizard, and python with suede in geometric ways.



Rodriguez used his strong sense of construction skills, layering different colors and fabrics that only he can do so successfully. The minimalism was sensual and the looks were all clean and polished. The colors in this collection may have looked moody but they were absolutely gorgeous either together or by themselves. Narciso Rodriguez is a name which is a stamp in American Fashion and it is a pleasure seeing it every season. 



Marc Jacobs Fall 2012 Eccentric Edwardian Mix.

This collection by Marc Jacobs went through quite an adventure. A wonderful fashion fest of clothes that were wonderfully sculpted and made with beautiful custom fabrics, all punctuated by furry hats designed by Stephen Jones. The shoes were tricked-out with holograms and sparkly buckles.



After a fabric delay, due to snowy weather, an involvement of a Learjet and a spur-of-the-moment conversation between Jacobs and Rachel Feinstein that resulted in the intriguing set she designed. "I'm thinking about Puritans and Pilgrims and kind of fake melancholy," Jacobs told her. "That's right up my alley," she offered back. The result were paper thin grottoes made of a series of paper thin wood, their decrepit arches encompassing several stairs from which the models would descend. The designer said that he was also inspired by the likes of Anna Piaggi and Lynn Yager, fashion eccentrics of the first order and mash-up artists long before the Sartariolist arrived on the scene.



Stoles over coats over skirts over pants over egg shaped dresses, fitted brocade jumpers over crisp shirts came out that were pretty lyrical and quite interesting in a modern way. A subtle Edwardian silhouette with the curvature were created not with any crinoline achieved through cut and construction. Colors were many and were sprinkled throughout the collection with prints that ranged from oversized paisleys to floral pencil doodles, and holographic appliqués dripped off dresses.

A daring collection full of play of textures. colors, prints and silhouettes. Marc Jacobs is a force of nature and every season he steps over the line of 'just right' to the area of 'just fabulous'. This fall and winter season can be enjoyed with the bold creativity of Marc Jacobs.



Tory Burch Fall 2012

This time around for the fall and winter season, Tory Burch offers a collection that was sophisticated with body conscious silhouettes that had a prim touch yet an underlying sexiness and they were seductive as well. The accessories that mixed well with these looks were framed handbags with plastic floral pailletes and tortoise chains, some which looked a bit Marni-ish. Plenty of romance was offered as well. A ruched chiffon dress and an organza applique top with a tweed skirt. There were men's wear touches of hounds tooth plaid that were in the mix. It was especially quite noticeable in a sequined hounds tooth sequined dress, as well as plaid pants with hand-painted leather jackets. Other looks added some edge to the collection.

This was a pleasant line up that offered looks for women of all ages and had a true fall and winter look that offers warmth and coziness to any wardrobe.


Tory Burch
Fall/Winter
2012 - 2013

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti Fall 2012 is Clean Strong Class

The models entered and exited on the runway by escalators on either end of the Grand Promenade inside Avery Fisher Hall.

This fantastic collection radiated a powerful, clean, elegant and sophisticated femininity by Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti that was absolutely breath taking. Ferretti looked at today's career driven youth for today's inspiration. "They pay more attention to their future." The line up was strong and was layered and had modern touches. It opened with a crisp white power suit cinched at the waist which was a perfect beginning to the theme of the show.

It evolved to slightly stricter silhouettes. The fabulous coats were tailored and chic like the camel one with gradations of color at the torso. Other pieces were perfect for the board room. All this is not all about work though because there is play mixed in all of this. There were looks that featured high glamour moments which were several metallic and PVC dresses that were futuristic within the classic looks and several other beaded shift dresses.

Alberta Ferretti this go around showed a more cleaner and sharper collection that compared to last season's Twenties version was a whisper to the future with class and power. 



Proenza Schouler Fall 2012 Oversizes Fashion.

Proenza Schouler has moved forward for the fall 2012 season with clothes that had an Eastern influence. If you think karate, kimonos and samurai you will get the jist. The silhouette they played with is oversized which is a trend that they seem to make official for the season. The tops and pants came in stiff white cottons, like karate gis, or in waxy black leather.

Leather is a big element here. The designers worked it by weaving thin strips of leather in navy, black and white say, into a tiny grid for a side-zip jacket. The quilted satin varsity jackets embroidered with pheasants on the chest were really impressive and this is the same for the woven paillette skirts which these were paired with. This showed the wonderful handiwork of these designers. The wonderful brocade they used for long-sleeve dresses were marvelous in the construction that they almost looked like jackets and flippy miniskirts.

It is a remarkable collection and showed that evolution for these designers is on going and it is wonderful to watch. They have no problem in taking any risks in trying out new ideas and that is one of the most amazing qualities they have. The fashion crowd is always pleased and look forward for more. Proenza Schouler, keep up the good work!



L'Wrenn Scott Designing Her Way for Fall 2012.

 

L'Wrenn Scott called this collection Tea Time. A perfect name for a line up that had details and influences of England from the 1900's to WWII. Fitted and lean silhouettes walked down and showed ensembles that was a pure mixture of jewel tones and bright spots of color washed with some black. Scott does a great job in showing the female body by designing pieces that basically come in different lengths, fabrics and details that celebrates femininity that is seductive and sexy in a glamorous and stylish way.
 

 

A cream number of a fitted jacket over a slinky number and a bow in the back on the neck was a charm and a dark olive sweater embroidered in the front and yellow plush fur on the shoulder matching with a pair of sexy cut tweed pants was whimsical. To continue the whimsy she offered printed tea dresses with swishy skirts that were playful and sexy.



A sharp ensemble of a purple brocade jacket over a matching ponyskin skirt and fuchsia chiffon blouse trimmed with velvet bows radiates modern glamour.

 

The show could not be with out a line up of evening drama. It went from from a velvet over the knee dress to a beaded tunic over black pants for cocktail to slinky floor sweeping satin dress to a regal black velvet finale number.

 

Scott continues to design her own way and has a strong point of view that she needs to maintain. This collection shows the signature L'Wrenn Scott look and it is sticking.



Reed Krakoff Fall 2012 is Cleanliness.



This fall Reed Krakoff created more body conscious garments which is shows an evolution to his signature minimalist style. This is his fifth season and this time around he discovered the waist. A brown polished leather coat nipped in the midsection and falling in an A-line shape to the knee and a black python bandeau that gave shape to a chiffon blouse and trousers were a couple of perfect examples. White, black and red were the main colors mixed in with ivory, grey and brown. Krakoff did not exclusively offer hourglass silhouettes.



He offered crisp pantsuits some of which could have worked on their own without the bulk of the cropped, hooded vests he showed with some of them. Knits were good looking and were great basics put together with some ensembles and perfectly so since it is a part of his burgeoning business. Fur patches on the sleeves of one and a front panel leather on another upped the special factor. What was missing were cocktail and evening which he entirely opted out and he only showed three bags in 30 looks. No matter because all of his looks really kept up the cleanliness and the quality of his collection.

 

Reed Krakoff
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

Zac Posen Fall 2012 is touching Luxury.



One of the best fall collections for fall/winter is Zac Posen. He designed beautiful and dramatic clothes that were stunning in craftsmanship and details. It also celebrated the appreciation of the female body and by adorning it with these creations it magnified the beauty of the woman.
This was done with a fascination of the chinoiserie and Japan.



Short dresses, evening gowns and evening suits came in red, gold, jewel tones and neutral tones. Beautiful floral jacquards and wonderful obi sashes were added to give a fantastic Eastern touch. The entire collection has a luxurious air and cannot help but radiate a splendorous elegance.



This was all because of the Posen signature silhouettes which were the peplum waisted tops and jackets, the sharp tailoring, super slim waists and the mermaid gowns of which stunning bodices were built of fabulous seams and detail work. When things are pared down this is when Posen is truly at his best. He is a great talent and is more grounded in his design process and because of this the results are beautiful.

Zac Posen

Fall 2012 

Betsy Johnson Fall 2012 is Mod and Fun!





An early Sixties era video clip of screaming girls on the tarmac as they awaited for the arrival of the Fab Four opened the show. The lit up "BETSEYMANIA"was the background and the line up was all a playful Carnaby Street inspired collection that only Betsey Johnson can do best.

 



Skinny herring bone suits, maxi dresses, psychedelic prints, boyish coats and mini skirts, fluffy faux fur were some of the examples of this tour of the golden age of this famous street.

 



There were the true Johnson vintage touches such as the bouffant wallpaper-print mini dress and the straight forward mod looks looked like true Betsy through and through. There were some great down-to-earth pieces, like a cropped motorcycle jacket made from  pink-flecked ivory boucle and a pair of wide-leg, low-rise trousers. The go-go looks were glam and modern and the final look which was a hot fuchsia dress that clung and fit in all the right places was a great ending note to the show.

Betsey Johnson's shows are always worth looking forward too because they are energetic and fun just like the essence that dwells within her.

Betsey Johnson
Fall/Winter
2012-2013

Vera Wang Fall 2012. Subtle Edge in Elegance.

In the program notes there was a sentence that said "Opposites...are revealed in grey." What does this statement mean? It was a bit confusing. Gray was pretty much mixed into a lot of black, vibrant orange and nude. There were some blue in the mix as well.



Vera Wang is a designer who always has a vision  that stimulates the fashion palette of any woman who desires modern elegance in style and fashion. 
Last season Wang offered so much transparency that was a bit unpractical to wear, whereas this season there is a sense of wearable practicality. She makes them in wonderful artful configurations and matches them up with quite impressive outerwear, opening in beige wool, moving into charcoal. This ranged from sleeveless coat to a more feminine cape jacket. The contrast of vibrant tangerine with pale chiffons were great contrasts.



The beautiful Dutch blue chiffon and organza gowns with crystal mesh embellishments and the architectural prints on languid silks were a great mixture of hard and soft. There were some looks that had a lot going on such as the peculiar abdominal froth looks. Other looks were just perfect with the elements of strength and beauty with a gentle sophisticated quality.
Vera Wang expresses a wonderful stream of femininity which has a subtle edge that never compromises the elegance. Excellent.

 

 

Vera Wong

Fall/Winter

2012-2013



Rodarte Fall 2012 is Australia.

 

Kate and Laura Mulleavy's take on Australia is not the kind that is all about the surfing of Bondi or the monumental and stately curves of the opera house, but it was all about the more romantic and distant past as the sisters have informed. "We had a huge story to tell about the history and the landscape and the way we viewed where everything came from there," said Laura postshow. Here they did a wonderful job at creating a collection that had the most amazing creative intelligence that they are known for and yet maintaining a commercial quality to feed the commercial end of the business and it all worked out brilliantly.



The rich dusty blue blues and rust tones of arid Australia colored the clothes beginning with the soft circle skirts and the cropped blouses with dolman sleeves. They reflected the the homely innocence of the Thirties. There was the Outback as well that played a part. The rugged terrain played a part in the Mulleavys creative process bringing forth outstanding fisherman sweaters and patchwork of aviator shearlings, which are now having a moment this instant and I am certain they will be in a store near you this season. This leather work continued into sheaths nipped in the waist and sporting Aboriginal patterns that moved the line up in an edgier direction. One of the elegant features of the collection were the perfect Victorian-inspired gowns that came in hand printed tiered chiffon and loose columns and black lace collars connected with tulle for a strapless effect.
Rodarte is truly a brand that takes creativity to a whole great intelligent level.

 

Rodarte

Fall/Winter

2012-2013 

Badgley Mischka Fall 2012



Badgley Mischka offers a mixture of sparkle and modern elegance. The stunning gold dress with the beaded shoulders and low back really set the tone for the collection. The gold is rich and laced throughout the collection. Little black dresses had accents of gold on the shoulders to add some shiny touches and black column dresses were touched by gold as well on the low back right above the bum. Peek-a-boo shoulders were quite right and quite sexy. Speaking of sexy, a long sleeved black evening gown, draped at the hip was slit up to here and a gold ensemble of a bodice and skirt were a couple of hot pieces.



Many jackets and coats with volume, short or simply tailored were matched with pants that were bell bottom or slim. Some other fabrics were liquid and velvet and were elegant and festive. Badgley Mischka as always present pieces for any special occasion and never forgets to make pieces that can go from day to evening. Of course their evening wear and cocktail dresses always impress because this time around they did some fabulous beading, cuts and feather work. How elegant! Never doubt their eye and their talent. They always deliver.

 



Sophie Theallet Fall 2012

Sophie Theallet envisioned aristocratic families who lost their fortune and stopped maintaining their castles. In a preview Theallet said that they still look beautiful and are continuing to live an elegant life. The result of this inspiration is translated into a faded notion of glamour. Turtle necks tucked under cocktail dresses, a one shouldered dress nipped in the waist, and brocade like patterns were some of the examples that made this collection elegant and showed the sophistication of Theallet's work for this fall/winter season. Couture like touches are her traits and will always show in any collection she designs and that is what she does best.