What Peter Dundas has done with Pucci is producing fabulous garments that are magnificent and fresh and keeping the Pucci essence present without dissolving any if its signature. For this season sexy, flowing, seductive, beautiful clothes were the protagonists that captured a gypsy like spirit. Dundas was inspired by Brigitte Bardot in the Seventies. Beautiful dresses in hanky hems were divine, sexy short mini dresses were glamorous, black webby knits were seductive, and there were some printed with shorts or trousers that were casual as well as dressy. The final white dress was just beautiful and breathtaking that it was the perfect touch to the end of the show.
Dundas has managed to alter perceptions of what Pucci is, as he varied the motifs that effortlessly work well and look beautiful. He definitely has reestablished the house as it competes with its own vintage market and the results are truly obvious.
I truly and highly recommend this collection for those warm summer days or evenings because you are not only going to look and feel sexy but you are also going to look and feel beautiful.
Starfish, seahorses, mermaids, seashells, golden studs are all sprinkled throughout this Versace collection that offered a sexy glamour that is a celebration for the summer. There was a variation of these motifs that went on and on. The prints were cheerful and what wasn't printed was studded, what wasn't studded got some crystallization. There was a white dress that had an encrustation of a starfish that was a projection of a modern mermaid going out on the town.
The show was mostly white and had some vibrant pastels such as citrine, mint and lilac. There was black included just to show that it is there. Jackets over Neoprene shorts or knee-length skirts were sexy. The goddess like short structured dresses had pleated drapes on one side all looked pretty and set the heat of prettiness to the Versace brand.
Even though this collection had the intricacies, it lacked the spark and the passionate fire that makes Versace collections very appealing. I bet Donatella is holding back for an explosive presentation for the near future. Maybe it came out in the couture this Spring.
Dolce & Gabbana are proud to be Italian. The pride came through in a wonderful parade of color, vegetables, sparkle and movie star quality that projects pure Italy in design and attitude. I was blown away by the beautiful installation of over the top traditional carnival lights which was the perfect setting of what was about to come out on the runway. Gabbana said: "There is a connection with food and the style of life. The food is important. It's a good message. It is happiness; it is life." Here they looked at Sophia Loren's representation of happiness and her Fifties heyday in Dino Risi's "Pane, amore e..." all to the relentless refrain "Mambo Italiano."
As the first design turned around the corner I knew I was going to be treated to a feast of appetizing ensembles. Full skirted bustier dresses, fitted skirts, car coats and hot pants kept my attention. The prints were blown up images of veggies representative of the Italian cuisine. Similar shapes came in black and there were some floral prints as well. All this and more offered great continuous choices for the Dolce fan.
The finale resembled a beauty pageant in a line up of all 60 girls in sparkling, bejeweled corsetry against the surrounding festival lights. This was a collection and show that was unforgettable and it put a big smile on my face. I am certain it will do the same for you.
Frida Giannini has been on a roll designing stand out collections delivering her signature Gucci flair. A powerfully grounded collection for this spring season, Giannini did not stray away from what is essential to the Gucci brand. This time there is a connection to all that is from the Jazz Age, giving details that are deco and Gatsby, all perfect for the Gucci girl.
Short jackets over high-waisted pants tapered to the ankle all worked the Deco style in a palette of white, black and gold with some punch of green. There were some sparks of animalia in prints of a hybrid of python and zebra that showed interest. For evening, Giannini offered smashing flapper looks that were of chemise and dropped-waist combinations with audacious architectural goings on all bathed in sequins, metal, Plexiglass paillettes and miles of metal chain fringe. This entire collection will make any client look wonderful and have her do the shimmy only because she feels good and looks good in a Gucci!
Honestly, this was a PRADA collection that was amazingly chic and dazzling by Miuccia Prada. There were so many wonderful options to pick from to look and feel chic. This collection was girly and feminine and sexy all rolled in one. Prada titled the show "Women and Car Engines" and said she saw "an excuse to talk about femininity and what it means today. Women can be feminine, even sweet - a word which today in fashion is almost taboo. It's not clear why."
Well, all I can say is that this collection shows that it is OK to be, look and feel feminine and sweet and that no apologies need to be expressed for that. These clothes were exquisite: coats with round shoulders and pleated backs, loosely fitted bandeau tops worn over plisse skirts; fluid waist-conscious dresses with exhaust flame print borders. I loved the pin-up swimsuits that look like they do not go into the water and the twin set that had a new take in floaty, back pleated maroon coat and blouse worn with a pleated blue skirt. The fabrics were lovely in soft pastels and floral guiperes that were quite bold and beautiful. Leather played a role in giving some grit and some structure.
The accessories came in bags with car imagery and shoes that were freckled with adrenaline-inducing flames. "Cheerful and witty" is what Prada said. I think it is downright clever and darling.
No mistake that PRADA continues to drive on down the runway to enchant the fashion world and clients.
A beautiful edge of couture-inspired shapes were to be had for Roksanda Ilincic for this Spring 2012 collection. A wonderful play with shapes, volume and color gave a charming effect and had a touch of edge. These clothes were loose, despite the ballooning hems, waists, and sleeves - some of which resembled bells. Colors were bright and vibrant in a palette of pink, orange, turquoise green and aqua which brought a youthful energy. The only ingredients that did not mix well were the wallpaper-like embroideries and oversize plaids. Those ingredients did not hold me back from enjoying this nice collection and I know that Roksanda is a talent that continues to try new things and has the courage and confidence to show them.
Joanna Sykes' laid back collection for Aquascutum had a luxurious and liquid palette and had a nice fresh point of view on sportswear. There was a play with neutrals and white and the punch of yellow was nicely deliberate. The designer played with textures and innovative fabrics. The stiff wraparound skirt in laminated tweed missed the mark though. What worked well are contrasts that worked beautifully such as a sheer chiffon T-shirt worn with mannish pants or a shiny tank under a white silk trench jacket. Aquascutum was a nice fresh and light luxury for London's Fashion Week.
The theme for this collection by Mary Katrantzou is "nature versus nurture". This was a story that married natural and high-tech fabrics into single garments. She played out together her signature prints depicting tin cans, microphones and car parts with saturated natural forms, from flowers to coral reefs. This was a collection that was centered in joy filled with eye catching party dresses, fancy pants, and colorful knits. Cocktail dresses were made from pieces of plasticized and printed tulle, chiffon and bits of textured fabric. I always look forward to see her collections. She is a true master of mixing prints in clever and creative ways.
In this super elegant and sexy collection that Alice Temperly created there was a wonderful sense of elegance and sensuality that came across as fresh and luxurious that gives a glamour ready to be shown off in the spring and summer season for 2012. According to Temperly, she channeled the "high-octane glamour of Grace Kelly and the sex appeal of Michelle Pfeiffer in 'Scarface.'" The line up was full of liquid garments draped perfectly to take a lady by the poolside to lounge to a cocktail hour. Incredible were the column dresses with knotted shoulders and draped over the body and the transparent lace dresses embroidered in beads and flowers with deep V-necklines. Temperly did go from the softer lines tough a more tougher line as well showing a tuxedo wrap dress and a slick white smoking jacket. I think that this collection was one of the best ones that came out of London Fashion Week. Very feminine. Very Elegant.
